ESCAPES
Bliss on a boat
Row, pole, cruise and paddle 10 of Britain’s beautiful rivers
“There is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”
Ratty, Wind in the Willows
As a certain aquatic rodent famously points out, there is endless, unrivalled enjoyment to be had when out on the water. Kenneth Grahame’s Ratty was, of course, referring specifically to river boats, and calm rivers at that: type-one fun, when the activity is indulgently, almost somnambulantly pleasurable from start to finish, with no rapids to speed the pulse and little in the way of physical effort required. Sunny days on the river when – aside from putting in the occasional oar stroke, pole push or rudder correction – you can simply lay back and go with the flow, as weeping willows trail their long fingers in the gentle current and waterfowl lazily paddle past. Here we explore 10 such sublime experiences.
1 ROW Durham
The serpentine River Wear coils right through the heart of Durham, virtually encircling its Norman castle and stunning Romanesque cathedral (see page 26). There’s no better way to see the sites than in a rowing boat, going at your own pace, with just the gentle noise of oars stroking the water. Based by the city’s medieval Elvet Bridge, Brown’s Boats has been operating on the Wear since the 1900s, with a fleet of classic handmade wooden rowing boats available to hire.
2 PUNTING ON THE CAM
Cambridge An aquatic activity synonymous with the pretty university city, going punting on the River Cam is tantamount to compulsory if you visit Cambridge on a sunny summer’s day. With Let’s Go Punting, you can kick back and contemplate the illustrious colleges on the banks as you glide along, propelled by a professional pole-pushing chauffeur, who will regale you with stories and facts about the river and the university.
Choose from a private tour, or a shared experience. letsgopunting.co.uk
3 BOATING ON THE AVON
Bath, Cotswolds Bath is beautiful from any angle, but exploring the Roman spa city by boat is an extra-special experience. Based on the banks of the River Avon, the Bath Boating Station offers canoeing, wooden rowing boats and punts, but we love the traditional Thames skiffs.Built in 1894, these are powered by two or four oars – depending on the size – and steered by a rudder-operator who sits on a forward-facing seat at the back. Hire the craft for one or two hours, then picnic on the Boating Station’s lovely riverside lawns. bathboating.co.uk
4 ROW A VICTORIAN SKIFF ON THE RIVER LEAM
Leamington Spa, Warwickshire The water in Royal Leamington Spa is reputed to have restorative powers, and there’s no denying the curative capability of an afternoon spent messing about on the lovely River Leam, which flows through Warwickshire’s spa town. Take a traditional Victorian-style rowing skiff out from Leam Boat Centre, which is based on the banks opposite beautiful Jephson Gardens Park, where wealthy ladies and gents would once ‘take the air’. Enjoy gorgeous green views of the gardens as you skim along this wonderful waterway. leamboatcentre.com
5 SKIFF CAMPING ON THE THAMES
Cotswolds to Surrey For a multi-day experience, navigate a traditional skiff along the River Thames, travelling from Lechlade in Gloucestershire via Oxford and Henley to Walton in Surrey, and camping out en route.Thames skiff hire has a fleet of classic 26-foot skiffs, which convert into floating tents when a canvas cover is pulled over the top, comfortably sleeping two people; additional passengers can camp on the riverbank. The boats – some of which are more than 100 years old, and have appeared in films including Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, Shakespeare in Love and Great Expectations – are easy to row, and can take up to four people. skiffhire.com
6 PUNT OR ROW ON THE NIDD
Knaresborough, North Yorkshire Boating on the River Nidd at Knaresborough has been a grand tradition for over a century, with locals and visitors enjoying sunny days on the waterway that gently flows beneath the market town’s dramatic railway viaduct.Operating from the same riverside location since 1882, Blenkhorn’s Boats offers experiences in several kinds of craft, including a fleet of iconic green-and-red rowing boats (five-, six-and 10-seater boats available) and pole-powered punts.You can choose to row or punt yourself, or the Blenkhorn’s team will take you on a trip. knaresboroughboats.co.uk
7 PADDLE ON THE WYE
Hay-on-Wye, Wales Flowing along the seam between England and Wales, the River Wye is one of Britain’s classic rivers, with a range of experiences possible for paddlers of all persuasions, including whitewater fans. Blue Mountain Activities offers several calmer canoe trips, starting from Glasbury-On-Wye and finishing at Hay-On-Wye (half-day trip) or Whitney-On-Wye (full-day trip), with options to continue further if you want to camp. The scenery is spectacular on both banks, and along the way you can spot red kites and herons. bluemountainactivities.co.uk
8 PUNT ON THE STOUR
Canterbury, Kent For river worshippers and paddlers on a pilgrimage to Canterbury, there’s no better way to explore this cracking cathedral city than in a comfortable, classic, hand-built punt on the historic River Stour.
With Canterbury Punting, you can choose between a private or a group experience, with professional pole pilots pushing you along the sedate waterway that flows through the heart of the city, beneath low bridges and past gorgeous gardens and timberwindowed historic houses, while explaining the ancient city’s multi-storied past. Drinks and picnic provisions can be arranged on the 45-minute experience. canterburypunting.co.uk
9 CRUISE THE RIVER THURNE
Norfolk Broads Perhaps Britain’s best-known waterscape, the Norfolk Broads can be explored in all manner of craft, but it’s hard to top pootling around the aquatic maze – waving at old windmills, dangling a fishing line or spotting birds and butterflies in wildlife reserves – behind the wheel of a traditional wooden Broads cruiser. Based on a quiet stretch of the River Thurne, between Potter Heigham and Hickling, Martham Boats offers a range of wonderful launches, all built in the ‘50s and ‘60s, including traditional wooden cruisers and half-deckers. Take your time on a day-long or overnight adventure around Horsey and Hickling Broads. marthamboats.com
10 CANOE THE RIVER TWEED
Peebles, Scottish Borders The 100-mile-long Tweed is one of Scotland’s great rivers, and the only real way to experience it is with a paddle in your hand. Biggar Adventures offers several open-boat experiences – including an overnight escapade camping on the riverbank – but a favourite is the three-hour linear trip in two-person canoes between Peebles and Innerleithen. Along the way, look out for wildlife, including statuesque hunting herons, iridescent kingfishers, swooping ospreys and shy otters. biggaradventure.co.uk
Patrick Kinsella is the author of a book about pub walks, published by Harper Collins in September 2022.