TRAIN/WALK: West Highland Line, Highland
Highland express
The rhythmic chug of a train as it bustles through the British countryside never fails to elicit a sense of times past and journeys to come. Few lines are more evocative and exhilarating than the West Highland Line, writes Chris Gee
All aboard!
Discover more magical train rides with Michael Portillo on BBC Two’s Great Coastal Railway Journeys, available on iPlayer
There’s still something romantic about rail travel across the British Isles. Stepping on board at your departure station marks the beginning of an adventure as your train gets underway to take you effortlessly to your destination.
Grab a window seat and then sit back to watch the journey unfold outside: townscapes giving way to suburbs, which in turn are replaced by a rolling countryside of fields, trees, hills, hedgerows, moors, mountains and stunning coastal views.
There’s a more intimate connection with the landscape as your train whisks you on high embankments, across tall viaducts and through those tunnelled feats of engineering. When there’s a steam locomotive at the head of your train, that sense of effort is palpable, and the chug of the locomotive and smell of hot steam only adds to the sensory experience.
TRACKS THROUGH TIME
Britain’s rail network expanded rapidly in the mid-19th century to spread to the far reaches of this land. The railway enabled the Industrial Revolution, introduced standardised time across Britain, and was a great social leveller, opening up affordable and practical holidays and travel for all.
For a brief period in the 1960s, the railways of Britain fell out of favour as we fell in love with the car, but the early 21st century saw a rail renaissance as a greener alternative to congested roads.
Our railways remain an important part of the national infrastructure, supporting the economy through the movement of goods and people. They are also fabulous leisure activities in their own right and there are some splendid journeys to be had, from the famous Settle–Carlisle line across the Pennines, to the West of England mainline along the Devon and Cornwall coasts. You can still step on board a sleeper train in London and wake up the next day in Penzance, Inverness, or Fort William, a splendid way to get to the starting point of perhaps the most scenic of all rail journeys: the West Highland Line.
IRON ROAD TO THE ISLES
Regularly voted one of the best railway journeys in the world, the West Highland Line connects Glasgow with Fort William – the gateway to Ben Nevis.
A branch line runs from Crianlarich to Oban, but perhaps the most spectacular section of an already impressive route is the extension from Fort William to the fishing port and ferry terminal at Mallaig.
Construction of the line from Glasgow to Fort William began in 1889, with the first trains operating throughout in 1894.
The extension to Mallaig was opened in 1901 and quickly became known as the Iron Road to the Isles. Long before the Skye bridge was built, this was the way to reach the Isle of Skye – by train to Mallaig and then by ferry to Armadale.
The ferry still operates today.
At the time, Mallaig was an important fishing port on the West Coast of Scotland and trainloads of fresh fish would depart daily for the Scottish capital. The line survived the Beeching closures in the 1960s and today offers a wonderful way to enjoy spectacular Highland scenery, particularly behind the steam-hauled Jacobite.
MOUNTAIN TO SHORE
Our steam train gets underway from Fort William station and immediately runs on below towering Ben Nevis as it threads its way through Banavie and Corpach. The scenery is spectacular as the railway hugs the shore of salt-water Loch Eil.
The engine is working hard on the climb as it hauls the train away from the loch and across the impressive Glenfinnan Viaduct. This viaduct saw early use of concrete as a construction material, built by ‘Concrete Bob’ McAlpine and more latterly made famous in the Harry Potter films. As the train slows across the viaduct, spectacular views open out across to the Glenfinnan monument and along the length of Glen Shiel.
The journey continues to impress as your train winds on through some of the best West Highland scenery on offer, a mix of Munros and lochs. Then suddenly, as you approach Beasdale, you get your first glimpse of the coast at Loch Nan Uamh. Just when you think it couldn’t get any better, the line continues on through the pretty village of Arisaig, and by Kinloid, where there are views across to the Isle of Skye along with the smaller isles of Eigg, Rhum and Muck.
THE ROUTE
8.9 MILES/14.3KM | 5 HOURS (ONE WAY) | MODERATE-CHALLENGING
The superlatives are never exhausted as you continue above the Silver Sands of Morar for the final run into Mallaig and journey’s end. The harbour makes a great place to potter, but if you’re hungry, you should sample locally caught mussels and langoustines at the Cabin restaurant, or you could save it for the end of the day with a visit to the Crannog restaurant in Fort William.
If you’re staying locally and fancy stretching your legs, there is a fabulous 8.9-mile walk from Morar station to Tarbet on Loch Nevis, where you can catch the ferry back to Mallaig train station. There’s only one ferry to Mallaig a day and you need to pre-book it (westernislescruises.co.uk). Alternatively, you could walk along the path towards Tarbet for as long as you want, then retrace your steps to Morar.
1 LOCHSIDE LANE
Leave the station and head south-east on the B8008, taking care of traffic. The road veers to the left, then, as it bends right, look for a side road to the left, signed ‘Loch Morar’. Head east on the quiet lane to reach the northern shore of the loch.
Route finding is easy as you follow the lane for three miles to its terminus at Bracorina.
2 MORAR MONSTER
The lochside path heads over a bridge and into trees, an ancient route along the deepest freshwater lake in Britain. As well as enjoying the stunning mountain scenery, be sure to keep an eye out for Morag, a local relative of the Loch Ness Monster. By all accounts, she is equally shy, so you are more likely to see red deer, otters or golden eagles.
The rocky path continues past the restored Chapel of Inverbeg and on through the remains of an old settlement at Brinacory.
3 REMOTE HOUSE
Continue for two miles along the shore, then just after a small beach, follow the path away from the water as it climbs past the cottage at Wester Swordland. At a fork, keep left on a wider track, which ascends further to meet the track heading through Glen Tarbet.
4 LOCH TO LOCH
Turn left and climb through the glen to reach a cairn at the summit of the track. The track then descends steeply to the jetty at Tarbet on Loch Nevis.
5 FABULOUS FERRY
Hopefully you will have made it in time to catch your booked ferry for the stunning sail back to Mallaig.
THE ROUTE
From April to late October, The Jacobite departs daily at 10.15 from Fort William to Mallaig. In high summer, there is a second daily round trip departure at 12.50. Return fares start at £52. westcoastrailways.co.uk
Chris Gee is the author of Walking the Yorkshire Coast: A Companion Guide.
DISCOVER MORE OF THE WEST HIGHLAND LINE
FORT WILLIAM–CORPACH
Take a 10-minute journey from Fort William to Corpach to enjoy spectacular views of Ben Nevis and sample a short section of the Great Glen Way alongside the Caledonian Canal, including Neptune’s Staircase on the canal.
TYNDRUM–BRIDGE OF ORCHY
Catch the train from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy to enjoy a fabulous horseshoe curve on the line before sampling a seven-mile stretch of the West Highland Way on the Old Military Road to return to Tyndrum.
CRIANLARICH–OBAN
Enjoy a stunning 70-minute, 42-mile journey from Crianlarich along the shores of Loch Awe and Loch Etive to visit the busy port of Oban, gateway to the Western Isles. With plenty of places to stay, the seaside town makes a great base.
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