TRAIN: Riviera Line, Devon
Riding high on the Riviera
Bag yourself a window seat on this spectacular coastal train, says Fi Darby, before returning partway on foot beside the glistening sea
If you have never travelled on the Riviera Line between Exeter and Torbay, you have missed out on a sensory treat. Whether you are a first-time visitor or an eager returnee, that first glimpse of water as your train meets the wide expanse of the Exe Estuary is guaranteed to lift your soul.
The light changes here, and when you disembark at Teignmouth, you’ll discover that the air does, too.
TRACKS OF CHANGE
The first section of the Riviera Line, from Exeter to Teignmouth, was opened in 1846, and extended to Newton Abbot later that year. Further extensions took it to Paignton by August 1859. The line was originally one of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s ill-fated broad-gauge railways, but government diktats led to it being converted to standard gauge in 1892. Another one of Brunel’s quirky choices was the atmospheric propulsion system that powered the railway for just a year.
The Riviera Line has been prone to rock falls and sea damage since its conception. In February 2014, it made the news for all the wrong reasons. Stormy seas breached the sea wall at Dawlish and washed away a significant section of track. This cut off the whole of the south-west peninsula from the rail network. Work to protect the sea wall and railway is still ongoing today.
WALK THE LINE
With the exception of tunnels, the Riviera Line offers splendid estuary and sea views all the way from Powderham to Newton Abbot. Enjoy the speeded-up spectacle in seated comfort, then absorb a healthy dose of sea air as you complete the Teignmouth to Dawlish Warren section of your return journey on foot.
The views will look remarkably similar. For the most part, this walk directly follows the railway line. A steep diversion avoids the tunnels between Holcombe and Dawlish but takes you up the intriguingly named Smugglers Lane as well as past some surprisingly rural scenery. On your way, enjoy the British seaside at its traditional best with amusements on Teignmouth Pier, ice creams at Dawlish, sand dunes at Dawlish Warren, and enough swimming opportunities to satisfy the most ardent of outdoor swimmers.
THE ROUTE
Embark at Exeter St Davids and disembark at Teignmouth (£5.50 off-peak day return), then walk the South West Coast Path back from Teignmouth to Dawlish Warren, and return to Exeter by train. greatscenicrailways.co.uk/lines/riviera-line
Discover more of Fi Darby’s adventures by train: fidarby.co.uk/adventures-by-train