TRAIN: Talyllyn Railway, Gwynedd
Whistle, steam and chug
After the thrill of the Talyllyn Railway (Rheilffordd Talyllyn), walk among the umbrellaed tree canopies and gurgling cascades of an enchanted oak woodland, entices Julie Brominicks
Steam, wood, iron. The tangibility is thrilling. Leather straps open windows that admit the reek of sulphur, whistle-blast and steam, and as the train pulls away from Tywyn, noises too, that are rumbly and rich.
The Talyllyn Railway is special. It is alleged to be the first narrow-gauge railway authorised to carry passengers – one year after being founded in 1865 to export slate from Abergynolwyn – and the first to be preserved by volunteers.
The railway was rescued so promptly after the quarries’ closure in 1948 that the original rolling stock was retained.
Furthermore, it now boasts UNESCO status, being integral to the Slate Landscape of Northwest Wales World Heritage Site.
It is also special in spirit. Volunteers still maintain the stations, trains, tracks and the museum, which includes a reconstruction of the study where Reverend Awdry, inspired by Talyllyn, wrote the Thomas the Tank Engine books. There are special events too, (like Fish-and-Chip Frydays and Sunset Specials) alongside regular timetables.
August is always busy, but there are quieter months.
And silences. The sudden diminishing of sound as the train halts is as atmospheric as its chunter. So, too, is Dyffryn Fathew, which it climbs, puffs of steam chasing sheep and ferns almost tickling the glass. The numerous station walks include the Quarryman’s Trail around Bryn Eglwys, and the Dolgoch Falls loop. But perhaps my favourite is the Cascade Trail from Nant Gwernol Station. To alight here after rain is to enter a sparkling world.
For a more strenuous walk, follow the blue waymarkers of the Quarryman’s Trail 
Author Julie celebrated her wedding on the Talyllyn Railway Line 
The train leaves Rhyd-yr-onen, a third of the way along the line 
An old tourism poster promoting the Talyllyn Railway as “One of the great little trains of Wales”
THE ROUTE
1.1 MILES/1.8KM | 45 MINUTES | EASY-MODERATE
1 INTO THE WOODS
Follow the yellow waymarkers across the footbridge. Ascend slate steps into Coed Nant Gwernol, a broadleaf woodland where grey wagtails flash upstream and pied flycatchers zip through sessile oaks.
2 BRIDGING STREAM
Cross the next footbridge. Water slides into silver jacuzzis ensconced by ferns and bryophytes.
3 TRAM TRUNDLE
Returning by the old tramway, your focus drifts to the hills rising above. Here are quarry ghosts – slate fences and disappearing tracks. Descend to the station by Allt Wyllt incline, down which finished slates were conveyed.
The woodland is luminous, the air lucid, waiting a pleasure.
Board the train, which momentarily glides quietly before the rich rhythmic rumble returns. The Talyllyn Railway is gorgeously romantic.
Yet this lustrous woodland exists despite of, not because of it. Coal has driven the climate crisis and sourcing it from Russia is now intolerable, so biofuels such as e-coal (an amalgam of coal-dust, olive stones and molasses) are being trialled, despite being expensive and the long-term impacts on engines are as yet unknown. It will take a special institution to meet this challenge – long live Talyllyn.
THE ROUTE
Find the Talyllyn Railway – which includes the booking office, shop, museum and King’s Café – at Tywyn Wharf Station. An Explorer Ticket (ride all day) costs £22. talyllyn.co.uk
Julie Brominicks is a Snowdonia-based landscape writer and walker.