DAY OUT: Llangorse Lake, Powys
Exploring ancient waters
Roam the shores of South Wales’ largest natural lake for avian surprises, suggests Simon Whaley
An October morning and mist swirls across the water’s surface. Micro-droplets cloak the rowdy avian inhabitants, whose cacophony of calls fills the air. Interspersed between the usual watery cronks and quacks are the gull-like whistling shree of the wigeon and the ravenlike squawk of the scaup.
An air of Arthurian magic surrounds me as I stand on a replica crannog platform, with its wooden boardwalk thrusting me into the 137 hectares of Llyn Syfaddon, or Llangorse Lake, to give it its English name.
To the east lies the sheltering broad-shouldered Mynydd Llangorse (515m), and to the south-west are the famous Brecon Beacon peaks of Pen y Fan and Cribyn.
SERVICE STATION
This glacial body of water is eutrophic, meaning it is rich in minerals and nutrients. Fish and other organisms thrive, making Llangorse a popular feeding ground for waterfowl and waders.
As winter approaches, the lake becomes a service station on the migratory motorway. Our native birds, such as pintails, wigeons, teals, snipes and shovelers, are joined by others that overwinter here, as well as those passing through. Scottish-breeding goldeneyes drop south here during colder months, and Icelandic godwits arrive from mid-October.
Resembling tufted ducks, these red-listed diving ducks eat shellfish, crustaceans and small insects. Only a handful breed in the UK, but winter populations swell to over 5,000, usually in estuaries or inland lakes.
RARE CRANNOG
Llangorse’s crannog is the only one found anywhere in England and Wales. These fortified dwellings built on wooden platforms seemingly float on the water’s surface, and are typically found in Scotland or Ireland. The Welsh Crannog Centre’s replica provides a perfect bird-spotter’s vantage point to glimpse great crested grebes, cormorants, great white egrets, Canada geese, mandarins, herons and more. Opposite the toilets in the main car park, a one-mile trail heads across Llangorse Common and around the lake’s western shore. This open field habitat is ideal for watching lapwings, redwings and, in summer, hobbies in flight.
HOVERING HIDE
The trail’s highlight is Llangasty bird hide. Opened in 2012 by HRH The Prince of Wales, it hovers above the reeds, perfect for spotting kingfishers, water rails and our rarest breeding duck, scaups. Hold out until dusk for sublime starling murmurations, which can include tens of thousands of birds. Finally, beware of Gorsey, the lake monster, mentioned in a 15th-century poem, who reputedly preys upon those who fall into the water.
Simon Whaley is a photographer and writer who specialises in the outdoors.