DAY OUT: Oban, Argyll and Bute
Bay of festive plenty
Head to Oban this winter for a 10-day extravaganza of food and craft markets, reindeer parades and dazzling light displays, says Fergal MacErlean

The capital of the Western Highlands, with its comely seaside setting, is the perfect place to get in the mood for Christmas. Oban’s 10-day winter festival has a choice of markets offering local produce, plus a wide range of activities and events.
The friendly town sits in a picture-postcard setting; the view of the harbour is best appreciated on the drive in from the top of Bealach-an-Righ. As you sweep downhill towards the bay, a pleasing jumble of land and islands opens up ahead.
SPECIAL VISITORS
In previous years, the festival’s opening parade has been led by two unicorn-esque horses, guiding the Winter Queen and her attendants through town, lighting up shop windows as they pass.
Another popular event is a series of projected winter and nature scenes in the multiarched open folly of McCaig’s Tower. And children will love exploring Glencruitten’s winter woods – transformed by light, sculptures and fairies – as they listen to the story of the Winter Queen. A much-loved festival fixture is Santa’s parade, where the man himself spreads cheer from a sled drawn by reindeer.
SAY CHEESE!
The festival features two food and craft markets, with one in the atmospheric surroundings of Oban distillery cask room. These have a great selection of local food and crafts, including Isle of Mull cheese, locally made chocolate, venison, smoked fish, Tobermory bakery doughnuts, sewn goods and more. Isle of Mull cheese is made at the last remaining traditional cheesemaking farmhouse in the Hebridean Islands. All its cheeses are made with unpasteurised milk from hardy island cows fed on grass and whisky grains from the Tobermory Distillery.
EXPLORE THE BAY
Follow the town promenade north for a mile to reach Dunollie’s ruined medieval castle. Perched on a cliff, with stunning views of the island of Kerrera, it is the ancestral home of Clan MacDougall. In previous years, the castle has hosted special festive afternoons of craft, music and seasonal food.
Discover more of Oban’s coastline and enjoy dramatic views to Mull, Lismore and Morven by continuing along to the sandy beach at Ganavan a mile further on.
About the market: 18–27 Nov, 2022. obanwinterfestival.com
Great Coastal Railway Journeys
From the fishing port and ferry terminal of Oban, Michael Portillo heads to the Hebrides by rail in this BBC Two programme, available on BBC iPlayer. bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m0014l0t/great-coastal-railwayjourneysseries-1-18-oban-to-staffa
Fergal MacErlean is an outdoors writer who loves exploring Scotland on foot and by bike.