WALK: Grassington, North Yorkshire
Dickensian delights
Walk the fells then step back in time to enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of a Victorian festive fair in this atmospheric Yorkshire Dales village, invites Chris Gee
There’s something magical and timeless about a Christmas market on a cold winter’s day, and more so as the evening draws in and the lights flicker on. The annual Christmas market in Grassington is scheduled over two Saturdays this year, 3 and 10 December, and makes a great focal point for a winter stomp with fabulous views.
Grassington is Wharfedale’s main hub, a classic Yorkshire Dales village, huddled below the south-facing slopes of Kimpergill Hill and above the River Wharfe.
It would be easy to be distracted by the food on offer at the market, and to stock up on Christmas presents, but be patient and head for the hills first to build up your appetite and create a sense of reward when you return into town.
THE ROUTE
4.1 MILES/6.6KM | 2.5 HOURS| MODERATE
1 OVER THE WALLS
From Bank Lane in the village, a delightful path heads north across lush limestone pasture. The route passes through the invisible remains of medieval field systems and settlements and climbs multiple stone stiles in the characteristic drystone walls.
2 LIME TO GRIT
The way leads on to Bare House, once a remote inn at a crossroads of old ways, but now a simple barn with an enviable view of Upper and Lower Wharfedale. It is at this point that you make a geological transition from limestone to gritstone. The Wharfedale giant fells of Great Whernside and Buckden Pike are on show, along with other distant highlights, including Simon’s Seat, Flasby Fell and Pendle Hill.
Doubling back, a walled track meanders effortlessly to the interesting old lead-mining area at Yarnbury.
3 LANE TO MARKET
From Yarnbury, either Moor Lane or field paths lead you neatly back into Grassington.
A glorious array of smells and sounds will draw you to the market square in the heart of Grassington, where, as dusk falls, the Christmas lights that adorn the lovely old stone buildings are lit and buskers, many in Victorian costume, will be playing a medley of familiar Christmas songs.
A warming glass of mulled wine or hot chocolate will keep winter’s chill at bay as you stand alongside a roaring brazier contemplating the Victorian-themed fair on offer. The scent of roasting chestnuts and mince pies will whet the appetite for a range of local produce, either from the stalls or from a tearoom or pub, such as the Forester’s Arms on Main Street. You will be spoilt for choice!
About the market: Grassington Christmas Market, 11am–4pm, 3 and 10 December 2022.
Chris Gee is the author of Walking the Yorkshire Coast: A Companion Guide.