WALK: Studland Bay and Old Harry Rocks, Dorset
Dorset dreamscape
The National Trust looks after 780 miles of coastline and more than 500 historic buildings, monuments, gardens and nature reserves. Fi Darby explores what makes these sites so important to us, before revealing her favourite winter walk
For most of us, the National Trust and National Trust for Scotland are synonymous with beautiful buildings, manicured gardens and delicious cream teas, but it’s sometimes easy to forget that both charities are also the custodians of many of our most treasured outdoor spaces.
From precious uplands, through ancient woodlands, to exceptional coastlines and wildlife-rich wetlands, the National Trust (NT) and National Trust for Scotland (NTS) care for – and make accessible – over 3,000 hectares of countryside and hundreds of miles of coastline. NT-managed landscapes enable us to walk mountain ridges follow meandering rivers, and wander along lonely beaches, unlocking the history of our landscapes, and understanding their conservation as we go.
COLD-SEASON WANDERS
It’s just as important for us to get outside over the winter months as it is during the summer but with shorter days and inclement weather, winter access to the outdoors can be problematic, especially if you’re entertaining the whole family. Both the NT and the NTS have put a lot of thought and experience into this, and their well-maintained, waymarked paths, accessible trails and information boards can make the difference between a plodding ramble and an exciting exploration. And as for their cafés? Well, there’s nothing like a hearty bowl of soup, or hot chocolate and cake, to put a smile back on the face of even the soggiest of walkers.
Whether you love striding out on long-distance walks, ambling around landscaped gardens or enjoying something in-between, our National Trusts have a winter walk to suit you. Remember to plan accordingly for shorter days and lower temperatures.
TRUSTY HIGHLIGHTS
Watch starlings dance their sunset murmuration around the Wimpole Estate in Cambridgeshire, or perhaps spot seals at Strangford Lough in County Down. Snowdrops are a National Trust favourite and will remind you spring is coming; photograph the early coastal blooms at Coleton Fishacre in Devon or find carpets of white on Bodnant Garden’s Winter Garden Walk in the Conwy Valley.
Long winter walks can push off those cold-weather blues. Enjoy windy views from the top of the Long Mynd above Carding Mill Valley in Shropshire or hike out for a night in a mountain bothy at the Mar Lodge Estate Nature Reserve in the Cairngorms. For shoreline adventures, few days out can beat a walk along Dorset’s south coast, where sandy beaches and dynamic dunes sit snuggly beside chalky cliffs and dramatic sea stacks.
BAY, ROCK AND DOWN
It’s small wonder that Studland Bay is visited by millions each year. This sandy peninsula is perfect for walks, watersports and swimming, and has space for everyone, including naturists. But this rare dune heath system is a surprisingly young natural phenomenon that measures its years in hundreds rather than thousands.
Created by the depositing of sand against the clay and sandstone of Poole Harbour, Studland heath isn’t the only shifting landscape in this corner of Dorset. The grassy headland of Ballard Down rises high above the southern end of Poole Bay, and is punctuated by the chalk stacks of the iconic Old Harry Rocks. Formed over millions of years but now in a state of constant sea erosion, this chalk ridge is a wonderful place to be in winter.
On a crisp winter day, the views from Ballard Down can be breathtaking. Don’t be put off if the weather is wet; this close to the sea, you will be able to taste the salt in every misty droplet. And what better than a sea breeze to blow away the mental cobwebs as well as the physical ones?
If the chilly air doesn’t do the winter-revival trick, perhaps you might like to try an invigorating cold-water splash. And, of course, that post-swim chill will be the perfect excuse to warm up at the National Trust’s wonderful Knoll Beach Café.
It’s not just the sea views that capture the imagination on this seaside walk. With sika deer on the heath, seahorses in the seagrass and migratory birds such as sanderlings and Brent geese spending the winter here, Studland is an important wildlife habitat. However, bird numbers have been in drastic decline. Please keep your dog under control and follow directions.
This 5.6-mile circular walk takes in the Studland shoreline, Old Harry Rocks and Ballard Down. It includes hills and unfenced clifftop areas. Start at the National Trust Knoll Beach car park, where parking is free for National Trust members. Those wishing to visit via public transport can catch the Purbeck Breezer 50 bus service, which runs between Bournemouth train station and Swanage, and includes a ride on the Sandbanks Ferry.
THE ROUTE
5.6 miles/9km | 3.5 hours | MODERATE
1. KNOLL BEACH
Head along Knoll Beach. Admire the high white cliffs and glimpses of Old Harry Rocks in front of you.
At Middle Beach, turn right to head up past the Old Coastguard’s Hut. Cross the car park then turn left at Grooms’ Cottage.
Just past the bend, don’t miss Fort Henry. This concrete bunker was built in 1943 to allow for the safe observation of D-Day training exercises. Continue along the path.
2. BANKES BREW
At the junction, turn right towards the road. Turn left and walk downhill past the Bankes Arms, also home to the Isle of Purbeck Brewery.
3. CLIFF CLIMB
Continue downhill to the toilets, then turn left along the path to Old Harry Rocks. As the track starts to climb, be aware there are sheer cliffs on the seaward side.
4. OLD HARRY VIEWS
Explore carefully at Old Harry Rocks. Don’t forget to admire the views to Bournemouth, Hengistbury Head and the Isle of Wight across Poole Bay.
Head up the meadow known as Old Nick’s Ground. Perhaps the fierce-looking Pinnacle rocks here had something to do with this alarmingly devilish epithet.
5. BALLARD DOWN
Pass through the gate at the top to follow the grass path across the field to the trig pillar. The Ballard Down trig pillar isn’t at the top of its hill. There is more climbing yet but the views south to the groyned beaches of Swanage Bay and north across Poole Harbour are stunning. As you climb, notice the boundary stones. If you look carefully, you can still see the line of the Studland and Swanage parish boundary along the ridge.
6. SEAT TO STUDLAND
Take a rest at Stone Seat, then follow the stony track downhill towards Studland.
7. LANE TO FARM
Follow the lane until you reach Manor Farm. Notice the lovely, thatched shelter and cross on the village green.
Turn right and follow the lane back to the loos. Retrace your route to Knoll Beach.
SITE DETAILS
Shop and café are next to the NT car park; loos are at Knoll Beach and the start of the Old Harry Rocks track. Purbeck Breezer 50 bus stops at Knoll House Hotel.
MEMBERSHIP
Join the National Trust at nationaltrust.co.uk/join-us
Fi Darby is an outdoor instructor and writer who teaches navigation and expedition skills.
Watch
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall explores the wildlife of Dorset, including sika deer and migratory birds, in Hugh’s Wild West (series one, episode eight). Available on iPlayer.
THREE MORE NATIONAL TRUST WALKS IN DORSET
Corfe Common History Walk
Take a 2.5-mile circular walk around Corfe Castle Village and Common, walk a smugglers’ route and spot Bronze Age burial mounds. National Trust car park, loos and café are all available at Castle View. This walk is mostly level with a few slopes, gates and boardwalks.
Kingston Lacy Woodland Trail (accessible)
Follow this 2.8-mile gravel track and wooden boardwalk through the winter treescapes of Kingston Lacy’s deciduous native woodland. The route is suitable for bikes, pushchairs and wheelchairs, with toilets and refreshments available at the Stables Café.
Brownsea Island trails
Keep your eyes open for sika deer and red squirrels as you explore Brownsea Island. Choose from three waymarked routes or join them together to discover cliff views, a natural play area and a beach covered in old pottery. Catch a ferry from Poole Quay and enjoy drinks and light meals at the café.
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