WALK: Helvellyn and Striding Edge, Cumbria

Hiking on the edge

When it comes to pure exhilaration, few walks in the British Isles can compete with an ascent of Helvellyn via the tapering ridge of Striding Edge, promises Vivienne Crow

After edging your way along an exposed ridge, clinging to rock and clambering breathlessly up a scree-covered trail, the 950m summit is won and your spirits soar as a line of craggy peaks suddenly fills the horizon.

Welcome to Helvellyn, England’s third-highest mountain. Carved by ancient glaciers and still home to rare flora that has survived since the ice sheets retreated, this gnarly landscape presents adventurous walkers with exhilarating scrambles and a day that will never be forgotten.

Striding Edge and Swirral Edge are best tackled in dry, calm conditions and only by those with a head for heights. Mountaineering gear and experience are essential in winter conditions.

1 BESIDE THE BECK

Leave Glenridding’s main car park, turn right along the A592 and immediately right again. Fork right beside the beck. At a minor road, go left, soon joining a gravel path to the right. Keep left at a path junction near a gate and bear right at a fork.

2 UP AND UP

After the next gate, turn left. So begins the climb! It’s a slog at first, but you are greeted by the uplifting sight of the pyramid-like Catstye Cam and Helvellyn’s fearsome cliffs.

3 OVER THE EDGE

Soon after passing – and ignoring – a ladder stile in the wall, join a path from the left, making its way to Striding Edge. Either keep to the exciting, rocky apex, scrambling easily over one or two small dips, or use the more straightforward path to the right. The biggest difficulty comes in the form of a rock tower, which has to be climbed down with care. Face into the rock here. Take a breather before the final, lung-bursting pull to Helvellyn’s extensive summit area – big enough to land a plane on.

4 LAKELAND VIEWS

At the top, bear right along the plateau’s edge, passing the memorial to Charles Gough, whose dog guarded her master’s dead body for three months after he fell from the mountain. Pass the summit shelter on the way to the trig pillar, from where the outlook takes in all of Lakeland as well as the North Pennines.

5 SWIRRAL DESCENT

Keep to the fell edge to find the sprawling cairn marking the path on to Swirral Edge. Carefully descend right to negotiate this rocky ridge.

6 TANTALISING TARN

About 500m after leaving Helvellyn’s plateau, fork right. Descend towards the Red Tarn and then fork left to drop into the valley of Glenridding Beck, crossing two tributary bridges on the way.

7 FINAL STRETCH

Bear left to cross a bridge over Glenridding Beck and turn right along a track near Greenside’s converted mine buildings. Back in Glenridding, turn right after the Fairlight Guesthouse to re-enter the car park.

Watching the sun rise from “the dark brow of mighty Helvellyn”, as Sir Walter Scott describes the mountain in his poem ‘Helvellyn’


Vivienne Crow is a photographer and writer who specialises in the outdoors.