WALK: Upper Derwent Reservoir and Howden Reservoir, Derbyshire/South Yorkshire
Waters of the dark peak
Follow in the footsteps of Helen Moat as she roams the majestic reservoirs and mixed woodland of the glorious Upper Derwent Valley
In the early part of the 20th century, pastures, farms and country lanes disappeared under Ladybower, Derwent and Howden reservoirs in the Upper Derwent Valley. Their construction was not without controversy. Two settlements – Derwent and Ashopton – were sacrificed to meet the insatiable demand for water.
Nowadays, it feels as if this watery valley has always been here but in prolonged dry periods, the remains of Derwent village emerge from the mud-caked shores, reminding us that the Upper Derwent was once very different.
A 10-mile ramble around the two higher reservoirs of Derwent and Howden doesn’t just reveal a fascinating local history, it also showcases the beauty of the Dark Peak.
COURAGEOUS CANINE
Starting out from Fairholmes between Ladybower and Derwent reservoirs, take time to explore the small visitor centre with current information on local wildlife, then head north along the access road. Just beyond the dam wall is a memorial to the Dambusters, aka 617 Squadron RAF, who executed dummy runs here before bombing the Ruhr Valley dams during the Second World War. A little further on, another memorial pays homage to Tip, a sheepdog who remained by his master’s side for 15 weeks after he perished on the moors above.
TIN TOWN
Just beyond Ouzelden Brook, veer left through a ruler-straight grassy path and on through trees to the foundations of ‘Tin Town’, more formally known as Birchinlee. Here are a series of black-and-white photos on information boards, chronicling the itinerant lives of the dam construction workers and their families before the tin huts were dismantled, sheet by sheet.
ARBOREAL AMBLE
Beyond Howden Dam, skirt round the narrow arm of the reservoir (River Westend) before heading north again alongside the water to meet a footbridge across the Derwent near Slippery Stones. The old packhorse bridge was salvaged from the drowned Derwent village and taken stone by stone to its new location. It’s a fine spot for a picnic lunch; continue upstream to wild swim in the nascent river’s pools.
MOOR TO SHORE
Crossing the footbridge, you will leave the gentler landscape of mixed woodland and plantation to climb up a rough path on to moorland. Look out for birds of prey as you continue over the moor before dropping down through woodland to Howden then Derwent.
Beyond Derwent Dam, the path descends through conifers, joining the road that sweeps round the base of the dam wall, returning you to Fairholmes Visitor Centre and your starting point.
Helen Moat is a walker and travel writer based in the Peak District.