BUDGET WALKING WEEKENDS
STAY: Kinlochleven, Highland
VILLAGE IN THE MOUNTAINS
Unwind in a Norwegian-like valley among old woods, great peaks and glinting lochs, says Daniel Graham
Garbh Bheinn is a slumping brute of a mountain, shoulders bare and beaten, the colour of February rain. Kinder in character is Mam na Gualainn, softly ridged and rambling with a simpering south face. And then there is Sgorr na Ciche – the unmistakable Pap of Glencoe – its peak hooked, dusky and ominous, like the fin of an orca rising above the waves.
These high, burly mountains demand attention, yet there is something about Loch Leven beneath them that lures the eye. Perhaps it’s the patchwork of silver and blue, created as the wind chases ripples across the water, or the way the half reflected mountains are held on the surface as if their weight means nothing. What is certain is its beauty, and on a sunny day in mid-April there are few better places to be.
SMELTERS AND STROLLERS
At the far-eastern end of Loch Leven is the busy little village of Kinlochleven. More than 100 years ago it was the site of an enormous aluminium smelter that employed some 700 workers. Today, it is the popular 96-mile-long West Highland Way that provides vital support to the local economy. Around 85,000 people take on the hike every year, and most of them spend their final night in Kinlochleven. Additional biking and walking trails, as well as Ice Factor – the National Ice Climbing Centre – provide further temptations for outdoor enthusiasts. No surprise, then, that there are numerous places in the village to seek shelter for the night; MacDonald Hotel and Cabins is my top pick.
READY TO ROAM
Once settled, it’s time to explore. Experienced walkers can head for the big peaks, but there are plenty of low-level adventures to be had, too. Take the short, steep path from St Paul’s Church to the vivacious Grey Mare’s Tail Waterfall. If you have energy to spare, continue north from the cascade to Mamore Lodge and its sylvan estate, or to make it a six-mile walk, head north-east beside the soaring Mamores to 350m-high Loch Eilde Mòr.
For a more leisurely day out, take a 20-mile circular drive around Loch Leven. The road hugs the shore and there are plenty of picturesque stopping points. Walk the short, flat Lochan Trail at Glencoe, dip a toe in the brackish waters of Loch Linnhe or dine al fresco with mountain views at Lochleven Seafood Café.
MacDonald Hotel and Cabins: Affordable, comfortable and friendly with fine views of the loch. Camping (£20 for two), cabins (£45 for two, £70 for four), hotel (from £115 for two). macdonaldhotel.co.uk
Daniel Graham stayed at MacDonald Hotel and Cabins while walking the West Highland Way.