Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal
Monmouthshire
Wander along a leafy towpath beside a beautiful Welsh canal, then climb to a hidden pool on the slopes of the Brecon Beacons.
DISTANCE: 7.4 MILES/11.9KM TIME: 5 HOURS LEVEL: MODERATE ASCENT: 429M TERRAIN: Initially flat on a well-maintained towpath, the route then climbs steadily on woodland and farm tracks. The path steepens before descending on a lane.
Arguably the most beautiful – and peaceful – canal in Britain, the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal runs for only 35 miles between Brecon and Newport. Built in the late 18th century to carry iron and other goods from the Welsh valleys to the River Usk, it appears to defy gravity, clinging to hillsides and giving boat-users and towpath walkers extraordinary views.
This walk takes in one of the loveliest stretches, and offers a more challenging route back along a tramroad over the mountain.
1 CRUISING THE CANAL
Park responsibly in Llanellen and follow the dead-end sign up St Helen’s Close and through the village until you find a narrow alley and a footpath sign. This takes you into a field. After a climb of about 400m, you reach the canal. Turn right and follow the towpath – the going is very easy, allowing you to soak up views to the right of the Usk Valley and the outskirts of Abergavenny.
2 PIT STOPS
The first village you reach, after about 2.5 miles, is Llanfoist. There’s a wharf here and a boat-hire company that occasionally opens its doors for cream teas in the summer.
A mile further on, cross the canal to enter Govilon, which is as busy as it gets, boatwise. Govilon has a pub and a shop for refreshments.
From here you have three options: get a taxi back to Llanellen; retrace your steps; or return to Llanellen by one of the tramroads that used to transport materials from the valleys’ mines and furnaces to the canal.
3 ON TO THE HILL
Take the left fork from the towpath just after you cross the canal before Govilon. This leads up into Coed-y-Person woods. When it emerges on to the road bend, take the path straight ahead, leading up into more woods. After about 250m, this meets a track and open land.
Turn left and follow the track for about 600m until you reach Pen-y-Graig farm. Go carefully through the farmyard, leaving by the gate in the south-west corner. Follow the hedge uphill for about 70m, go through the gate then turn left. After 250m, cross the stile and turn right, uphill through Cwm Craf.
4 PARADISE POOL
It’s a stiff climb of about 150m and then you’re on the tramway. Follow this broad path left – buzzards, skylarks, meadow pipits and ravens will keep you company.
After about a mile of gentle walking, you’ll enter the Punchbowl with its magical pool. On a misty morning, expect a hand to emerge from the water clutching Excalibur. This enchanted wildlife haven is an ideal spot for a break.
From here, follow the path steeply up into beech woods then left and down a sunken lane for about 400m until you reach a road. Cross the road and follow the path down into the Forestry Commission wood.
After about 60m, you’ll arrive on a broad forest path bend. Go straight ahead (not right and upwards) and follow this for about a mile until you reach another lane. Follow the lane for 50m and keep going through the gate at the bend ahead on to another broad forest path. After about 500m, descend left downhill into a field with a barn in it. Cross the field and then the footbridge over the canal and it’s a downhill path back to Llanellen.
