County of Dreaming Spires
Ancient megaliths, snow-dappled hills, snug inns, towering steeples and a vast horse carved in chalk – Oxfordshire in winter offers a landscape of fairytale charm and cheerful festivity, says Ben Lerwill
Oxfordshire is rarely fast-paced, but it slows down further as the December solstice approaches. The meadows and hills stand quietly in the frost; country pubs glow with firelight; honey-stoned cottages seem to huddle a little closer in the chill. Winter suits it well. The county is a calm and handsome one, and even as the temperatures drop, it knows how to warm and cheer.
At its heart, of course, is the twinkling lodestar of Oxford itself. To stare out from the heights of Headington Hill – where the oaks and limes of South Park have dropped their leaves and clocked off until the spring – is to see the city as a storybook illustration, its spires and pinnacles rising above the rooftops. The slender turrets of Magdalen College Bell Tower occupy centre stage, as they have done for more than 500 years.
In the heart of town, the gaiety of the summer months is now replaced by something more timeless. Here, old winter customs still cling to the cobbles and the college quads: ancient inns and small shops dot the backstreets, music drifts from chapels, and crowds cluster in the 18thcentury Covered Market for fruits and festive gifts. A more recent tradition is the German-style Christmas Market on Broad Street, complete with carol singers, craft stalls, gingerbread and glühwein.
WINTER THAMES
Past the cloisters of Christ Church College – where the Great Hall stands in woodpanelled grandeur – and out beyond the grassland of Christ Church Meadow, the River Thames flows through the city. As the royal waterway makes its way through the ploughed fields and stark forests of the South Oxfordshire countryside, it eventually reaches the venerable old market towns of Wallingford and Henley-on-Thames. Near the former, the Cholsey & Wallingford Heritage Railway runs Polar Express-themed train services, while at the latter, the Thames Path curves scenically out of town – just the thing for a wrap-up-warm riverside ramble.
On the subject of winter walks, Wallingford also sits close to the twin chalk hills of Wittenham Clumps. Named for the thickets of centuries-old beech trees at their summits and offering glorious views across the Thames Valley, they make the perfect location for a bracing, panoramic yomp. After snowfall, the 90-metre slopes come into their own as first-class sledge runs. Think of it as a good way of working up a thirst before a visit to the nearby Grade II-listed Plough Inn, where log fires and guest ales are waiting.
To the north of Oxford lie the stunningly landscaped 850-hectare grounds of Blenheim Palace. Sir Randolph Churchill famously called the view here the finest in England, and when you witness a winter sunset over its rolling parkland, where lakes and trees are busied with overwintering birds such as snipe and siskins, you might well agree. The palace hosts dazzling celebrations around Christmas, with a large-scale light and illuminations display.
There’s a similarly festive feel at Waddesdon Manor, just over the county border in the age-old village of Waddesdon. The estate puts on a glittering winter light show in its gardens and mature woodlands, while the manor itself – avast Neo-Renaissance country pile – is a spectacle in its own right, taking a starring role as the fairytale castle in a recent movie adaptation of Cinderella.
One more stately home? Spoil yourself. Kingston Bagpuize House doesn’t open its doors until late winter, but if you are here in February, it is well worth witnessing the emergence of its dainty ice-white snowdrops. The house itself is an elegant manor dating to the 1660s, and the hushed, wooded grounds add to the allure. Certain parts have been cleared to allow no fewer than 16 naturalised varieties of snowdrops to flourish.
You will find the house in the Vale of the White Horse, a scenic spread of Christmascard countryside covering the southwest portion of Oxfordshire. The area takes its name from the extraordinary Uffington White Horse, a vast impressionistic hillside figure created more than 2,500 years ago – on a chill winter’s day, its 110-metre chalk outline acts as a beautiful, almost spectral, presence overlooking the fields of the North Wessex Downs. Even better is the fact that the figure sits on the flank of the raised ancient trackway that forms the Ridgeway, giving yet more potential for a rosy-cheeked walk to remember.
LONG SHADOWS
It’s not the only part of the county where wintry prehistory looms large. On the fringes of the Oxfordshire Cotswolds, the Rollright Stones are an ancient complex of limestone dolmens and standing stones, built on seemingly sacred ground over more than a millennium. The wind blows cold up here, whistling around the weathered megaliths. The site’s pagan connections make it a popular draw over the solstice period – it’s not unusual to find offerings of holly wreaths – but there are contemplative rewards to be had from visiting the stones at any time of the Christmas season.
across clear cold skies
The surrounding Cotswold Hills provide some of Oxfordshire’s most quintessential winter attractions. The small historical town of Burford – decked out in trees and fairy lights at this time of year – is a case in point. Its sloping High Street is a hark back to the wealth of the local medieval wool trade, these days complete with cosy tearooms and smart boutiques, while the town outskirts hold the upmarket Burford Garden Company, a kind of rural Harrods, where you’ll find everything from poinsettias to premium bottles of Christmas port.
Heading further into the Cotswolds, little Kingham has previously been dubbed ‘England’s favourite village’. Expect thatched roofs, ivied walls and glimmering festive decorations, as well as two superb food pubs in the form of the Wild Rabbit and the Kingham Plough. If you’re looking to work off a lengthy winter lunch, another long-distance footpath, the Oxfordshire Way, runs adjacent to the village. For a full-day winter walk that’s long enough to feel substantial but flat enough not to be overly exhausting, try following the trail on its serene 10.5-mile stint to Charlbury. Both Kingham and Charlbury sit on the scenic Cotswold Line, which sees regular passenger trains trundling to and from Oxford.
Remaining in the Oxfordshire Cotswolds, mention also must go to Chipping Norton, where the quirky theatre hosts a much-loved annual pantomime. If you fancy braving the queues, seasonal produce can be procured mere minutes away at Jeremy Clarkson’s Diddly Squat Farm Shop. For its looks alone, meanwhile, the pretty hilltop village of Churchill merits a visit. Here, the 19th-century All Saints Church casts a lofty eye over the mellow, frosty valleys below – and, to bring us full circle, it was modelled on Oxford’s Magdalen College Bell Tower.
TRADITIONAL TREASURES
Oxfordshire might be located far from the UK’s national parks and the coast, but its position roughly in the middle of the map (think of it, perhaps, as the coin inside a rich plum pudding) means it contains parts of no fewer than three Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The Cotswolds is one; another is the North Wessex Downs, home to the Uffington White Horse. The third is the lovely Chilterns, a section of which swathes the southeast of the county.
Here you’ll find the bare oak and ash woods of the high-perched Chinnor Hill Nature Reserve, open throughout December and offering a good chance to spot redwings and fieldfares, as well as red kites on the wing. Nearby is the village of Nettlebed, famed for its longstanding Monday night folk club – areliably atmospheric option on a midwinter’s evening – while at the foot of the escarpment lies the characterful town of Watlington, where timber-framed houses share the streets with Chilterns-style, flint-covered buildings. If you enjoy an apposite place name, meanwhile – and who doesn’t? – it’s also very close to the hamlet of Christmas Common.
Oxfordshire can’t boast the rugged contours of Cornwall or Cumbria, but what it does have, and to a spectacular degree, is variety and history. Its wide, frost-crusted farm fields give on to flowing hills and thick belts of winter woodland; its riverside walks are marked by both the crunchy-underfoot solidity of the present and by the burnished aura of the past; and its hub and heartbeat, Oxford, is still brimming with seasonal tradition. As a place to explore over the colder months, the county is often just the place to warm the soul.
Winter palace
Helen Mark explores the parkland and green spaces of Blenheim Palace on a bright December day on Open Country, available on BBC Sounds. bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m0012q6d
Ben Lerwill lives in an Oxfordshire village with his family and the world’s most energetic dog.
He enjoys having Oxford close by, as a bolthole for trips into town, but is at his happiest when walking in the countryside.
OXFORD’S FATHER CHRISTMAS
As well as being an ardent lover of the countryside, fantasy novelist JRR Tolkien spent many decades as an Oxford don. He was also a family man. Each December from 1920 to 1943, he sent intricate, handwritten, hand-painted missives to his children, addressed from the North Pole and signed by Father Christmas. It’s a joy to imagine the young Tolkiens poring over the letters, which were published in 1976 as Letters from Father Christmas, complete with illustrations. “Just off now for Oxford with my bundle of toys – some for you,” reads the first letter. “Hope I shall arrive in time: the snow is very thick at the North Pole tonight.” It’s a wonderful book.
NOW GO TO OXFORDSHIRE
Where to stay, visit, eat and drink by Ben Lerwill
ACCOMMODATION
The Greyhound Inn, Letcombe Regis
Sitting in the village of Letcombe Regis, about a mile from the Ridgeway National Trail, the Greyhound Inn is a cosy country pub with eight guest rooms. It’s a classy affair with seriously good food. thegreyhoundletcombe.co.uk
Oxford Malmaison, Oxford
City hotels don’t come much more unusual than this smart 95-room getaway set in a former prison. Thankfully, today’s comfort levels are just what you need after a day exploring Oxford’s colleges and backstreets. malmaison.com/locations/oxford
Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, Great Milton
A manor-house hotel with two Michelin stars, this much-vaunted luxury property is decidedly pricey, but it has a sparkle of its own over winter. belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons
FOUR GREAT COUNTRY PUBS
1 The Double Red Duke, Bampton
The town of Bampton has found fame in recent years as the location of numerous scenes in Downton Abbey, and this pub offers the same mix of indulgence and old-world comforts. The food is a highlight – local produce is key – and the wine list is reassuringly hefty. countrycreatures.com/double-red-duke
2 The Perch, Binsey
Set within wandering distance of central Oxford yet managing to feel a world away, this thatched 17th-century inn sits on the banks of the Thames. The food has a British farmhouse feel – and muddy dogs and winter walkers are always welcome. the-perch.co.uk
3 The Chequers, Churchill
Flagstones, fireplaces, local beer and arty décor set the tone for this enjoyable gastropub. The bar snacks range from Scotch eggs to Padron peppers and the cask ales include regional favourite Hooky, brewed by nearby Hook Norton Brewery. countrycreatures.com/the-chequers
4 The Swan Inn, Swinbrook
French former president François Hollande was once brought here during a state visit, to give him a taste of an authentic English pub. It was a fine choice – it’s set on the chuckling River Windrush and has barrel-loads of traditional character. theswanswinbrook.co.uk
FARM SHOPS
Wykham Park Farm Shop, near Banbury
This is the real deal – the fruit and veg is grown on the farm, the cattle and sheep are raised here, and the cheese counter groans under the weight of more than 50 varieties. There is also a top-notch café on site, called Farm & Table. wykhampark.co.uk
Bruern Farms, Bruern
This environmentally aware venture has a great little farm shop stocking everything from freshly baked bread to venison from Bruern Woods. bruernfarms.co.uk
Waterperry Farm Shop, Waterperry
The farm here is geared towards raising livestock in the most natural way possible, so you can expect the same ethos when it comes to the shop produce. It neighbours the impressive Waterperry Gardens, open year-round. waterperryfarmshop.co.uk
NATURE RESERVES
Chimney Meadows Nature Reserve
This national nature reserve lies next to the Thames, near Abingdon. Over winter, some of its meadows flood, making it a refuge for snipe, curlews and other waders. Look out, too, for lapwings and short-eared owls. bbowt.org.uk/nature-reserves/chimney-meadows
Warburg Nature Reserve
High on the Chiltern escarpment and open all winter for walkers and wildlife-watchers, this enjoyably wild reserve offers glimpses of goldcrests, crossbills, stoats or weasels. The nights are exceptionally cold. Don’t forget your jumper. bbowt.org.uk/nature-reserves/warburg-nature-reserve
Sydlings Copse Nature Reserve
Sheltered in a valley just a few miles from Oxford, this reserve is small but manages to incorporate heathland, broadleaved woodland, grasslands and reedbeds. Winter visitors might be treated to tits, thrushes, roe deer and more. bbowt.org.uk/nature-reserves/sydlings-copse