WALK: Conwy and Conwy Mountain, Conwy
Winterfest in the mountains
After the epic views of this Snowdonia hill walk, return to the fire-lit streets of Conwy for hot chestnuts, mulled wine and a spine-tingling procession of 300 knights, says Julie Brominicks
The town walls are thrilling. Crevices, turrets, gateways and 21 towers. Cold stone, still enclosing jammed-together streets, shops and homes.
You can circle the town by walking on top of the walls, and visit the stout and beastly castle with its murder-holes and machicolations. It was built between 1283 and 1287 by Edward I, who filled his walled town with English merchants and banished the Welsh to the hills – but times change.
Now Welsh flags flutter in the turrets. Costa Coffee came and went, muscled out by the merchants’ legacy: a multitude of independent shops and cafés. And Father Christmas, snug in his jolly grotto at Jester’s Tower coffee shop, goes by the Welsh name of Siôn Corn. (Siôn Corn is sometimes even spotted scaling the castle walls, but this is a magical, somewhat fugitive, event, and difficult to corroborate.) Snug within these strong walls, Conwy is clud (cosy), cyffroes (exciting) – and very Christmassy.
Conwy is easy to reach by train, bus or road. Or indeed, for the intrepid, by river, sea or mountain track. Outwardfacing views from the town walls take in the sweeping, estuarine and mountainous Welsh landscape in which Conwy is enfolded, enticing you to explore 244m-high Conwy Mountain – Mynydd-y-Dref.
THE ROUTE
5 MILES/8KM | 3 HOURS | MODERATE
1 HARBOUR HIKE
Approach the quay from Castle Square. Here is where you find Conwy’s saltier edge; boats, ropes and lobster pots, hand-raked mussels for sale. Afon Conwy laps at the harbour walls and slips over mud at low tide. Walk along the harbour, beneath ancient holm oaks.
2 OVER THE BRIDGE
On reaching the school, turn immediately left, keeping to the road alongside it and cross the railway bridge. Head uphill, passing Beechwood Court.
3 CHOOSE YOUR PATH
A gate announces the foot of ‘Conwy Mountain’, which, though humble in height, grants lofty views from a labyrinth of paths. Rocks along the ridge are remnants of volcanic activity some 450 million years ago.
4 SUMMIT REMAINS
At the summit are the remains of Caer Seion – an Iron-Age hillfort and roundhouses. The views are epic. The coast lies below, the Great Orme (Y Gogarth) stretches north, and the Carneddau Mountains roar up inland. Continue westwards, walking downhill towards a meeting of paths.
5 DOWN TO CONWY
Just before reaching the bottom of the hill and the junction of paths, bear east and follow a broad track to the south of Conwy Mountain, before descending and retracing your steps to Conwy.
About the event: Conwy Winterfest, 4pm–7pm, 10 December 2022.
CONWY WINTERFEST
On 10 December, at 5.45pm, some 300 knights and dozens of torch-bearers will gather in front of the castle, ready to process through the town. Erwyd le Fol the town jester and Siôn Corn will, of course, be in attendance. This gripping medieval pageant will include hot-chestnut sellers, Morris dancing, music, possibly fire shows, and definitely sword fighting at Lancaster Square. Traders will remain open for hot food, mulled wine and carousing. As flaming torchlight casts flickering shadows of the knights on to the castle walls, neck hairs will stand up, and spines will undoubtedly tingle. Find out more at conwytownevents.co.uk/winterfest
Julie Brominicks is a Snowdonia-based landscape writer and walker.