Our greatest adventures
It’s the 200th issue of BBC Countryfile Magazine – and the perfect opportunity for us to share our favourite discoveries and explorations over the past 15 years
It’s very difficult to have job envy working on BBC Countryfile Magazine. Exploring beautiful places, meeting incredible people and have heart-stopping encounters with wildlife… I think I can speak for the whole team when I say it really is a dream job. We have all been lucky enough to find ourselves on a huge variety of adventures over the years and these have all featured in the magazine or on Countryfile.com at some stage. But as most of our work takes place in a Bristol office where we produce a new magazine every four weeks, as well as writing and editing dozens of website articles, reviews, podcasts and newsletters, it’s easy to forget to pause to take stock and remember these life-giving experiences; 200 magazines is a lot of content to remember!
So here’s a taster of the team’s top days out in the British countryside – from holidays to crafting experiences to life-changing journeys. We want to share these with you to give you fresh ideas for fun times in 2023 and to give you a little bit more insight into the people who make this magazine. I’d also love to hear your own favourite experiences inspired by the magazine. Please email me at: editor@countryfile.com
WILDLIFE
Ospreys, Loch of the Lowes
The first time I ever saw an osprey was on a small loch in central Perthshire. These epic fish hunters were vanishingly rare when I was growing up, so to find a pair happily nesting on this enchanting, if rather gentle, loch felt extraordinary – and a mark of the species’ wonderful resurgence in the UK. The Scottish Wildlife Trust has a visitor centre here, usually with a scope trained on the birds’ nest so you can witness the intimate details of their lives – Iwas spellbound for hours. The Lows is one of a chain of small lochs – the Lunan Lochs – and all are rich in wildlife but far less visited than you’d expect. Picnic by the water and expect a flyover osprey or hobby at any time.
BEACH
Mwnt, Ceredigion
I’ll never forget the warm summer’s day I first set eyes on Mwnt Beach. After a drive down pretty hedgerow-lined country lanes that opened out to a gorgeous view of Cardigan Bay, the beach’s perfect white sands and gently rolling waves quite took my breath away. Sheltered by the conical hill Foel y Mwnt – clamber to the top for panoramic views – this National Trust beach is one of the best places along the coast to spy dolphins in the bay. And as an ancient holy site, with its simple 14th-century white-painted stone church, it has an atmosphere all its own, too.
ACTIVE
Canoe the River Wye, Powys
After walks in the Wye Valley where I saw many happy canoers steaming along on this beautiful river, spending a day on the Wye’s waters became a must-do. As inexperienced paddlers and with two eight-year-olds in tow, we opted to take on a gentle section, starting at Hay-on-Wye and journeying on peaceful grade-one waters, which still offered plenty of adventure. We had to get out and push on a gravelly, shallow stretch, spotted tiny fish, searched for signs of otters and finished with a cold drink at the Boat Inn, Whitney-on-Wye . Next on the wish-list are the river’s white-water thrills!
LOCATION
Dungeness, Kent
One of my first adventures after joining the team in 2014, Dungeness captured my imagination. Its eerie landscape of long shingle beach, abandoned fishing boats, derelict rail tracks and eclectic artist’s huts creates an otherworldly atmosphere, influenced by the hulking presence of the nuclear power station and the sea stretching around this south-easterly headland. The grasslands, freshwater pits, shingle and wildflower meadows of Dungeness Nature Reserve thrive – it is Britain’s third most biodiverse landscape.
LOCATION
Yorkshire Wolds
I’d never considered visiting the East Riding of Yorkshire – awide unknown place north of the Humber and south of Scarborough. I was usually more drawn to the Dales or Moors of this grand county. But a press trip to the Wolds ended with me watching hares at dawn on these softly sculpted chalk downlands and being completely beguiled by the local history. Prehistoric mixes with Viking; Elizabethan manor houses brush shoulders with Victorian industry; I explored handsome market towns and perfect villages with pubs beside duck ponds. All this time, I never knew.
CRAFTS
Bushcraft skills, Highland
Sleeping under the stars in the spectacular Culbin Forest for a women’s-only bushcrafting retreat in 2018 was one of my favourite trips for the magazine. Set on the Moray Firth coastline, we foraged along the seashore and learned how to cook over a fire, plus mastered essential knot tying skills. It was a magical experience with a friendly group of women that gave me renewed confidence to take on more solo adventures.
Green woodcraft, National Forest
Six years on and I am still grateful for a day I spent with the perfectly named Peter Wood of Greenwooddays learning entry-level green woodworking skills in a Nottinghamshire woodland. It was December but the work – and open-fire-brewed tea – kept me warm as Peter showed me how to make a three-legged stool using saws, froes, shave-horses and pole-lathes. It was pure sylvan magic with a master craftsman. If I had my career again…
LOCATION
Loch Morlich, Cairngorms National Park
For a family-friendly camping adventure somewhere wild and unspoilt, head to Glenmore in the Cairngorms. It’s on the banks of Loch Morlich – asafe, shallow lake with a sandy beach that backs on to an ancient Caledonian pine forest. There’s so much to explore, whether you’re renting kayaks from the watersports café or heading off on a mountain bike trail. See the wolves at the Highland Wildlife Park, climb up Cairngorm Mountain and visit nearby Loch Garten RSPB Reserve, an osprey breeding site where knowledgeable rangers will entertain your kids with fascinating talks about blaeberries. Red squirrels abound at both lochs – you’ll have to be patient to see one – but there’s also the chance to see otters, deer and even golden eagles.
• campingintheforest.co.uk/glenmore-campsite
WILDLIFE
Nightingales, Sussex
It’s no secret that nightingales are on borrowed time in the UK – all the more reason to try to hear them while they’re still here. One way to do it is to book on to a Singing with Nightingales event, as Maria Hodson and I did last spring. Camp wild at a secret location in Sussex or Gloucestershire, take a bird safari with conservationist and folk singer Sam Lee, enjoy food, drinks and music around the fire, then embark on a 20-minute night walk to hear Sam and a guest musician tempting the little bird into a duet. Magical.
• thenestcollective.co.uk/singing-with-nightingales
Read all about Tanya’s experience in the April issue.
ACTIVE
Surf Croyde Bay, Devon
North Devon is fantastic for surfing spots and Croyde Bay is a personal favourite, due to its beautiful sand dunes, small village surf community, craggy coastal scenery and Atlantic waves, which can reach epic proportions. Even those with no desire to attempt big-wave surfing can find a thrill watching the adrenaline seekers paddle out to take their chances. With fine conditions, Croyde Bay has a long history of surfing – the original pioneers, 100 years ago, surfed the waves on wooden planks known as ‘coffin lids’. Thankfully, these days you can hire decent kit on the beach, if you don’t have your own board and wetsuit.
BEACH
Kenneggy Sands, Cornwall
This sweeping beach lies on a heartbreakingly lovely stretch of coastline. Even in August, there’s a laid-back feel, with few other beachgoers around. Reach the sands via a short walk and a gentle scramble over rocks. There are no loos, or café, or lifeguard. And it’s tidal, so take care you don’t get cut off. But it’s blissfully peaceful and gorgeous.
To get there, walk along the coast path for 2.5km from the large car park at Praa Sands. Or take a narrow and winding lane off the A394 Penzance Road to the small car park at Prussia Cove, one kilometre from the beach on foot. Not recommended for children’s buggies.
ACTIVE
Lake District, Cumbria
A few springs back, my mum, brother and I set out on an adventure – a 25-mile walk through the wilds of the Lake District. The route was to include three waters, four fell tops, a dozen waterfalls and over 1,400m accent. Our challenge? To prove that even the most remote corners of the country could be enjoyed by your average country rambler. Making this all possible was the humble walker’s hostel. Instead of completing the route in one arduous day, we split it into three, seeking food and lodgings at YHA Buttermere, Honister and Black Sail. I think about this trip often and can still picture the look of accomplishment on my mum’s face at the end of the journey.
• To plan your own quest, visit yha.org.uk.
GARDENS
Great Dixter, East Sussex
Home of prolific gardening writer Christopher Lloyd, the beautiful timbered manor house and grounds of Great Dixter is a fine example of how your fantasy cottage garden would look on a vast scale, with billowing herbaceous borders, diverse kitchen gardens, jewelled carpets of spring bulbs and peaceful meadows. Come here for inspiration and tranquillity, leave with some well-nurtured plants from the nursery.
Stourhead, Wiltshire
Stourhead Estate is a classic example of grand 18th-century garden design, complete with Palladian temples, bridges and a tower. Henry Hoare II, who inherited Stourhead, styled and created the impressive gardens and architectural additions to the manor, inspired by great landscape artists of the time. Enjoy visiting at any time of the year – there’s something here for the whole family to enjoy.
WILDLIFE
St Kilda, Outer Hebrides
Hands down, sea kayaking around St Kilda in 2016 was the greatest wildlife adventure of my life. This archipelago marks the most north-westerly point in Britain and access isn’t easy – inclement weather regularly prevents boats from making the crossing. But fortune smiled and the MV Cuma prevailed. The few days spent paddling around the main island Hirta, which boasts Britain’s highest sea cliffs, and to the towering sea stacks of Stac Lee and Stac An Armin, home to vast gannet colonies, were simply magical. Wildlife abounds here – basking sharks, minke whales, a pod of orcas, white-tailed eagles, great skuas, Soay sheep, puffins and seals galore variously graced the shore, sea and sky. Unbeatable.
ACTIVE
Walk Yr Wyddfa, Wales
I had always been inspired by stunning photos of Eryri (Snowdonia) featured in the magazine and was keen to explore this area. We planned our trip for September 2019, stopping off en route at Penrhyn Quarry to experience the worlds’s fastest zip wire, which I can highly recommend. Taking the Pyg Track to the summit of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), I realised photos don’t do this area justice – the scenery is simply stunning. Blessed with glorious weather, we experienced incredible mountain views as far as the eye could see and glistening turquoise lakes, making for a truly memorable walk.
WILDLIFE
Starling murmurations, Somerset
In January 2017, our team visited RSPB Ham Wall in Somerset to witness one of the most amazing wildlife spectacles I’ve seen in the UK. Arriving mid-afternoon, we spent time bird-spotting from the hides. As dusk fell from quiet surroundings, the sky darkened and thousands of starlings began to fly in and head towards the reeds to settle; they flew up around us, dancing in the sky like a choreographed ballet. It was an incredible sight and a privilege to witness – and you, too, can see starling murmurations all over the UK. Find your local site at rspb.org.uk.
ACTIVE
Lough Erne
One day at work, I was looking at a map of Northern Ireland and something caught my eye; an intricate network of loughs, waterways and islands in the south-west corner, bound by huge tracks of woodland and reeling escarpments. A few months later I was there, delighted to discover that County Fermanagh and its 40 miles of lakes was as enthralling in real life as it was on the map. For anyone considering a visit, my top three must-dos are kayaking on Lough Erne, the Lough Navar Forest Drive and Marble Arch Caves.
ACTIVE
Knoydart, Scotland
Seven of us set off up Glen Finnan, backpacks heavy with gear. After a day’s gruelling ridge-walk in buffeting winds, we made camp in the drizzle on the shores of Loch Arkaig. The morning brought a gentle climb up to the head of wild green Glen Dessary, then a spectacular descent along Finiskaig River – flanked by craggy giants – to lonely Sourlies Bothy on the shores of Loch Nevis. One hard day’s walking remained before at last we marched into the village of Inverie, for a hot meal in the inn, a soft bed and a ferry back to real life.
COUNTRY HOUSES
Trelissick, Cornwall
Trelissick sits at the edge of the Fal on its own peninsula. Walking its beautiful grounds, you can imagine what it was like for those living here in the 1750s when it was first built. Now run by the National Trust, Trelissick offers visitors a woodland garden, orchard, 18th-century quay and Iron Age fort, plus a café. While living in Cornwall, I explored the grounds in all weathers, bringing back memories of visiting in the summer holidays as a child.
Cragside, Northumberland
The first house to be powered by hydraulics, Cragside was built by wealthy Victorian industrialist William Armstrong, who designed a fairytale palace in Morpeth, Northumberland. The house is surrounded by a rockery and vast coniferous plantation, including Britain’s tallest Scot’s pine, which form a vast protective fortress around Cragside, creating the effect of a sorceror’s castle in an enchanted forest.