Keen to try your hand at wild swimming, surfing, kayaking or paddleboarding? Or looking for new locations to try out? Each month, we’ll highlight a great place to immerse yourself in the beauty of wild water.

By Maria Hodson

Published: Wednesday, 24 May 2023 at 12:00 am


The UK is home to a huge number of seas, rivers and lakes that offer idyllic wild swimming. Every month, Maria Hodson brings you her favourite wild waters for swimming and water sports, with details on how clean the water is, how to get there and where to park, eat and drink nearby.

Never tried wild swimming? Dip your toe in with our guide to Wild swimming in Britain: water safety and how to get started – or if you’re keen to try SUP, try Stand-up paddleboarding: the ultimate guide.


The best UK waters for paddleboarding and water sports

Grebe Beach, Cornwall

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Board inflated, ready to launch/Credit: Maria Hodson

This beautiful shingle beach beneath Bosveal Nature Reserve feels like a secret cove, scooped out of the banks of the wide Helford River in southern Cornwall and fringed by the mixed woodland. You can walk from delightfully tiny Durgan village along the South West Coast Path for a few hundred metres, or park at Bosveal’s National Trust car park and descend through tall pines on a sloping, sandy path scribbled by tree roots.

As you emerge from the gentle canopy shade, blinking in the sunlight, the sparkling waters of this secluded, unspoilt beach greet the gaze, framed by cliffs covered in greenery on either side. At low tide, the 200m stretch of sand, pebble and shingle slopes gradually into the water, rather than having any sudden drops, so is a great place for children to settle into swimming. Swim shoes will protect sensitive feet from stones underfoot. At high tide, there is little in the way of beach.

Due to its sheltered location, this is a usually great spot for paddleboarding – although I made my attempt on a fairly blustery day and spent most of my time kneeling. My four-year-old loved exploring the rockpools and was thrilled to venture out with me on the paddleboard in his buoyancy aid, despite the chilly waters. He made it back to shore without a submersion; I subsequently attempted to stand-up on the paddleboard and soon found myself swimming in the sparkling waters of the Helford River instead, as did a few fellow paddleboarders.

This dog-friendly beach has no facilities, which is part of its wild, quiet charm.

The nearest loos are in Durgan, a 10-minute walk away. The National Trust’s Glendurgan Garden, a 15-minute walk uphill, has loos in the car park. It’s worth visiting to explore the exotic plantings of its three valleys or tackle the puzzle of the cherry-laurel maze, planted in 1833. It also has a tea shop with a range of refreshment. Adult entry, £11.

Similarly, sub-tropical Trebah Garden is just a 20-minute walk away, with wholesome, nutritious food served at Trebah Kitchen. Trebah has a private beach, Polgwidden Cove, with a boathouse beach café. Adult entry, £16.50

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Boulters Lock to Cliveden, Berkshire

Paddleboard adventure, 6km return trip

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Spring Cottage at Cliveden House, Berkshire.

Both peaceful and merry, this is a deeply beautiful stretch of the Thames, with rich mixed woodland fringing the riverbank and small islands dotting the river. Tranquility and charm abound.

In Three Men in a Boat (1889), Jerome K Jerome describes this section as “unbroken loveliness, this is, perhaps, the sweetest stretch of all the river…” and despite more than a century passing since, this tribute remains true today.

Park at Boulters Lock Car Park and launch across the road, on a thin side channel of the Thames. Paddle upstream along to the wider open river, passing walkers on the left bank and the occasional fellow paddleboarders and canoeists heading the opposite direction.

Canal boats adds pops of colour, before you paddle into the wilder reaches, where weeping willows pour down to the glassy surface and fat oaks shade the banksides. Several small islets dot the river, thick with trees, and the National Trust’ Cliveden House rises majestically on the wooded slopes in the distance. Look out for herons, grebes and kingfishers gracing the water.

Although this is a popular stretch of the river, it is surprisingly serene. Even the odd pleasure craft dashing past does not detract from the peace, though it may take more effort to stay stable as the wash rocks the board.

Eventually, the distinctive black-and-white Tudor-style Spring Cottage appears on the right. This summer house was built for the Countess of Orkney in 1813 and is famed for playing a role in the Profumo Affair; it is now offers three-bedroom accommodation in the grounds of the Cliveden Estate. This is as good place as any to turn back and make your return journey to Boulters Lock.

If you have come prepared, pull up at one of the charming wooded islets for a picnic lunch before returning downriver. Alternatively, enjoy refreshments at The Boathouse at Boulters Lock.


Embleton Bay, Northumberland

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Embleton Bay, Northumberland/Credit: Tim Hurst

Embleton Bay is vast, with a huge, long sweep of white sand, guarded on its southern end by the atmospheric ruins of 14th-century Dunstanburgh Castle. It’s a perfect place for paddling in the shallows and spotting inquisitive grey seals popping up to observe the action, as well as the occasional dolphin frolicking in the waves. If you choose to swim, brace yourself for the brisk waters of the North Sea, which remain zingingly cold year round. Warm up afterward with a beautiful 45-minute coastal walk past the castle to Piper’s Pitch in the Craster Quarry Car Park, for a traditional hot kipper roll.

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Clevedon Marine Lake, Somerset

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The Marine Lake at Clevedon with the Victorian pier in the Severn Estuary beyond/Credit: Getty.

One of the great things about Clevedon Marine Lake, in this time of increased water pollution, is that the water is tested and the lake kept in safe order. So for those swimmers of a more hesitant disposition, it is a wonderful way to immerse yourself in sea water without risking unknown hazards. This large tidal pool is filled with sea water from the Bristol Channel every spring tide. It’s free and it’s open almost always, excepting occasional maintenance work or adverse weather or water conditions. Strike out across the refreshing water to the central pontoon, from which you can dive back in, or get your head down for a series of laps, as the occasional paddleboard or canoe drifts around. And make sure you admire the view from this vast infinity pool across the expanse of the Severn Estuary, often grey but always atmospheric, with the spindly 19th-century pier to the north and the rising wooded cliffs leading south-west.


St Anthony’s Well, Littledean, Forest of Dean

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Tracey Dixon and Maria Hodson enjoy an invigorating Christmas Eve dip, 2022.

Fed by natural spring waters, this ancient well sits deep in the Forest of Dean, guarded by venerable oak and beech trees. The cathedral of trees produces a mystical air, where in summer, a fiery sun is soothed by the lush canopy and, in winter, translucent light trickles through spindly bare branches. The spring feeds into a rectangular stone basin, which is about three feet deep, with a few steps down for ease of entry. The spring is considered a sacred site, with votives and tributes left at the source, and the fresh, pure water is icy cold, as it comes straight from the earth, making it popular as drinking water. Legend has it that the water can cure eye ailments and skin conditions, provided you visit nine times at sunrise in the month of May. Regardless of its curative powers, this is a delightful forest dip.

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