SOUTH EAST
01 Eastleigh, Hampshire
Distance: 7.5 miles/12km | Time: 4.5 hours | Grade: Moderate | Total ascent: 96m
Opened in 1710, the Itchen Navigation is a straightening and controlling of the River Itchen, so it doesn’t resemble a conventional canal. The river winds along nearby, with many offshoots, and at times the two waterways run near each other and even reunite.
Despite its industrial heritage, when horsedrawn barges transported coal, corn, iron and timber from Southampton to Winchester, the Navigation is still a rare chalk stream habitat. It teems with life: dragonflies, damselflies, grey wagtails, otters, water voles, salmon and trout. In his youth, Chris Packham lived nearby and described it as “where I really cut my teeth as a naturalist”.
This well-waymarked walk heads upstream from Eastleigh to Winchester.
1. START
Start at Bishopstoke Road car park. Walk north past Stoke Lock with its fish ladder. Steps lead into the reed-edged water here.
You can swim, but the current is quite strong. Cross a couple of footbridges and pass twice under the London- Southampton railway line, which caused the Navigation’s demise.
2. 4.3 MILES
After 4.3 miles, the tree-shaded towpath delivers you to Shawford. To your left is the Bridge Inn, and Shawford station for Eastleigh trains. Pass behind pretty cottages to rejoin the towpath.
3. 4.7 MILES
At Compton Lock, the waterway widens into a tempting pool, another popular swim spot. To the right is Twyford Meads.
4. 5 MILES
Watch for kingfishers leaving the nest at Hockley Meadows. Twyford Down’s chalk downland rises beyond. Follow signs for the pedestrian crossing under the M3. The land becomes leafier, with the Navigation flowing on the left, down a wooded slope.
5. 5.9 MILES
At a barge-shaped stone seat, look across to the Hospital of St Cross, a charity founded in the 1130s that follows the ‘wayfarer’s dole’ tradition: a cup of beer and chunk of bread to any traveller. Through a gate, a stepped path climbs St Catherine’s Hill, an Iron Age hillfort, for 100m. At the top, find great views of Winchester, orchids and butterflies. Descend to the Handlebar Café.
6. 6.5 MILES
Cross a road to Palmer Fields, which inspired John Keats to write his ode to autumn, “season of mists and mellow fruitfulness”, in 1819. The route leaves the Navigation, rejoining it in The Weirs gardens. At City Bridge, follow signs to the city centre and Winchester railway station for trains back to Eastleigh. CF
USEFUL INFO
Starting point
Start at Bishopstoke Road car park (The Hub), SO50 6LA. Ticketed parking available. It is a short walk from Eastleigh railway station. Bus services with Bluestar (bluestarbus. co.uk) and Xelabus (xelabus.info).
Terrain
Level, mainly unpaved path. It may be muddy. Unsuitable for wheelchairs/pushchairs.
Map
OS Explorer 22 and 32
Eat/drink
Steam Town Brew Co (above) is near the walk’s start. steamtown.co.uk
Bridge Inn, Shawford is a riverside pub mid-route. chefandbrewer.com/pubs/hampshire/bridge
Treat yourself at the Handlebar Café near the end, handlebar.cafe
Stay
The Winchester Royal Hotel is a 16th-century former bishop’s house in the city centre. winchesterroyalhotel.com
