NORTH WEST
05 Haystacks, Cumbria
Distance: 7.4 miles/12km | Time: 5.5 hours | Grade: Challenging | Total ascent: 660m
“For a man trying to get a persistent worry out of his mind, the top of Haystacks is a wonderful cure.” So said Alfred Wainwright of this 597m summit, with its wondrous views over Buttermere, Crummock Water, Ennerdale and the central fells of Great Gable and Scafell Pike.
While Buttermere’s four-mile family-friendly circuit has a tunnel, beach-like lake shores and glorious reflections, the extra 3.5-mile diversion to Haystacks via Scarth Gap is well worth the effort.
Begin at Buttermere’s Church of St James to view Wainwright’s window memorial plaque, then doff your cap to the great fell-walker near Innominate Tarn on Haystack’s summit, where his ashes were scattered.
1 START
From the church, turn left through Sykes Farm, which has a teashop, along a wide track into a field (there may be livestock). At a junction, turn right, signed to the shoreline. Skirt a field edge, passing through gates and trees to reach the lake shore. Enjoy the reflected views of Red Pike, High Stile and High Crag opposite and look out for trout, char, pike, and perch in the lake before passing through a short tunnel. Continue around a wide beach-like area with exquisite vistas of Haystacks, Fleetwith Pike and the Buttermere Pines. The path eventually joins the B5289.
2 1.6 MILES
Follow the road carefully to Gatesgarth Farm, then turn right through the farm, joining a wide stone track. Take Peggy’s Bridge, crossing Warnscale Beck, and then pass through a gate. To continue around Buttermere without visiting Haystacks, turn right here.
3 2.3 MILES
If climbing Haystacks, continue ahead, rising steeply beside trees, then turn sharp left. Climb steadily up Buttermere Fell and through Scarth Gap Pass. At a plateau with a crossing track, turn left for the final ascent of Haystacks, which involves some minor scrambling.
The summit is immensely rocky, marked by two cairns, both at the same height. Clear-day views include the Solway Firth, Criffel (Scotland), Skiddaw and Helvellyn. Innominate Tarn lies just to the southeast and is the perfect picnic spot.
4 3.9 MILES
Return via the same route back down to Buttermere. Drop past the tree plantation and continue ahead to pick up the lakeside path. Walk through Burtness Wood, looking out for red deer and red squirrels. Otter sightings are rare, but you may see their spraints near the shore edge.
At the far end of the lake, fork right over a bridge to pick up a path running alongside the hedge. At the end, turn left and follow this all the way back to Buttermere village.
USEFUL INFO
Starting point
Buttermere village (pay and display), or nearby NT car park (pay and display, members free). Public transport: service 77/77A Honister Rambler (daily). The walk starts at the Church of St James.
Terrain
Lakeshore paths, steep ascent up Haystacks (rocky on summit), some minor scrambling.
Map
OS Explorer OL4
Eat/drink
Syke Farm Tea Room 01768 770277, facebook.com/sykefarm Croft House Farm Café 01768 770235, crofthousefarmcafe.co.uk
Stay
The Bridge Hotel has 21 en-suite bedrooms and six self-catering apartments. thebridgehotel.uk
