Wander the shores of Buttermere then climb to the summit of Haystacks and the ethereal Innominate Tarn – where Alfred Wainwright’s ashes were scattered – on this 7.4-mile route in the Lake District National Park
“For a man trying to get a persistent worry out of his mind, the top of Haystacks is a wonderful cure.” So said Alfred Wainwright of this 1,959-foot summit, with its wondrous views over Buttermere, Crummock Water, Ennerdale, and the central fells of Great Gable and Scafell Pike.
While Buttermere’s four-mile family-friendly circuit has a tunnel, beach-like lake shores, and glorious reflections, the extra 3.5-mile diversion to Haystacks’ via Scarth Gap is rewarding.
Begin at Buttermere’s Church of St James to view Wainwright’s window memorial plaque, then doff your cap to the great fell-walker, near the summit’s Innominate Tarn, where his ashes were scattered.
Looking for more great walks in the Lake District? We have plenty of routes nearby, including Cat Bells, Tarn Hows and Helvellyn.
Lake District walks
Of all the national parks in Britain, the Lake District in North England is arguably the most celebrated – discover the area’s fells, rivers, waters and towns with our guide to the best walks in the Lake District National Park.
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Haystacks walk
7.4 miles/12km | 5.5 hours | challenging | 660m ascent
1. Buttermere
From the Church, turn left through Sykes Farm (teashop), along a wide track into a field (livestock).
At a junction, turn right, signed to the shoreline. Follow around a field edge, passing through gates and trees to reach the lakeshore. Enjoy the reflected views of Red Pike, High Stile, and High Crag opposite (look out for trout, char, pike, and perch in the lake) before passing through a short tunnel.
Continue around a wide beach-like area with exquisite vistas of Haystacks, Fleetwith Pike and the Buttermere Pines. The path eventually joins the B5289.
!["Beautiful]("https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/22/2022/12/Buttermere-Lake-District-bf51e11.jpg?quality=90&resize=620%2C413" "\"Buttermere,")
2. Peggy’s Bridge
Follow this (carefully) to Gatesgarth Farm, then turn right through the farm, joining a wide stone track.
Take Peggy’s Bridge, crossing Warnscale Beck, and then pass through a gate. (To continue around Buttermere, without visiting Haystacks, turn right here.)
3. Haystacks
Continue ahead, climbing steeply beside trees, then turn sharp left. Climb steadily up Buttermere Fell and through Scarth Gap Pass.
At a plateau with a crossing track, turn left for the final ascent up Haystacks. This involves some minor scrambling in places. The summit is immensely rocky, marked by two cairns, both at the same height. Clear day views include the Solway Firth, Criffel (Scotland), Skiddaw and Helvellyn.
Innominate Tarn is half a kilometre from here — a perfect picnic spot.
!["Innominate]("https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/22/2023/06/Innominate-Tarn-on-Hay-Stacks-looking-towards-Kirk-Fell-and-Great-Gable-near-Buttermere-Lake-District-Cumbria--Simon-Whaley-5faa8f7.jpg?quality=90&resize=620%2C400" "\"Innominate")
4. Burtness Wood
Return via the same route back down to Buttermere.
Drop past the tree plantation and continue ahead to pick up the lakeside path. Follow through Burtness Wood. Look out for red squirrels and red deer. Otter sightings are rare, but you may see their spraints near the shore edge.
At the far end of the lake, fork right over a bridge to pick up a path running alongside the hedge. At the end, turn left and follow this all the way back to Buttermere village.
Haystacks map
Haystacks walking route and map
!["Haystacks]("https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/22/2023/06/Haystacks-map-d56fc17.png?quality=90&resize=620%2C400" "\"Haystacks")
Looking for another Buttermere walk?
Buttermere and Rannerdale Knotts
7.5 miles/12km | 4.5 hours | moderate | 374m ascent
This lake and fell walk includes some of the Lake District’s most beautiful trees and forests, where myth and legend tangle with the Scots pines and the golden needles of larches.
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Useful Info
Starting Point
Church of St James, Buttermere. Parking: Buttermere Village (Pay & Display), or nearby NT Car Park (Pay & Display, members free). Public Transport – Service 77/77A Honister Rambler (Daily)
Terrain
Lakeshore paths, steep ascent up Haystacks, some minor scrambling. Haystacks summit is rocky.
Map
OS Explorer OL4
Eat/Drink
Sykes Farm Tea Room (01768 770277), Croft house Farm Cafe (01768 770235).
Stay
The Bridge Hotel has 21 en-suite bedrooms and 6 self-catering apartments.