Catch the ferry to the Scottish Isle of Kerrera just south of Oban, then walk around the island, stopping along the way for a swim in a tranquil bay and refreshments at at the gorgeous Kerrera Tea Garden

By Fergal MacErlean

Published: Monday, 22 May 2023 at 12:00 am

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Islands always have a magical pull, and Kerrera, nestled in Oban Bay, can prove intoxicating. Just four miles long, with a population of some 70 souls, this is indeed a tranquil haven. And if you have never swam in a narrow bay fit for a Highland chief… this is your chance.

You can reach this idyllic spot – with views to Jura, beneath a ruined castle, and handily beside the excellent Kerrera Tea Garden – on an easy walk from the island’s east-coast slipway. More rugged country is traversed, with ever-changing views of the Firth of Lorn, to complete the circuit.

Looking for more walking inspiration? Check out our guides to the best walks in Scotland, must-visit British islands and magical summer walks.

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Kerrera walk

6.6 miles/10.6km | 4–5 hours|  moderate|  380m ascent

1. Start

Catch the ferry from Gallanach slipway a few miles south of Oban to Kerrera. From the island slipway, follow the old drove road left alongside The Horse Shoe bay. The island exploration gets underway as you head south by the Sound of Kerrera on a level vehicle track. 

2. Little Horse Shoe bay

Keep left at a fork to reach The Little Horse Shoe bay, complete with picturesque wreck. 

As you walk up a small hill, you can see the remains of an Iron Age fort on a rocky hillock at the far end of the bay.

Further on, at a second fork by a house, keep on the main track to veer right uphill. You may hear greylag and Canada geese.

The road hesitates briefly before a descent to the sparkling sea, where it levels out besides the Kerrera Tea Garden and Bunkhouse at Lower Gylen. This can be a real suntrap, where you can relax with birdsong in your ears. 

3. Port a’ Chaisteil

From the tea garden, follow the burn down to the sea at Port a’ Chaisteil. The narrow, seaweed-filled bay is a popular swimming spot, where you can enjoy wonderful views out to the islands of Seil, Colonsay, Scarba and Jura. Seals may keep you company!

Over the hill on your left, on its dramatic rocky perch, stand the ruins of the 16th-century Gylen Castle, formerly a MacDougall stronghold.

Enjoy tea and cake before continuing on the track. After following the shore, where otters are often seen, the track swings inland and uphill past a house, Ardmore, on the right.

4. Firth of Lorn

From Ardmore, a path ascends steeply through ferns. Walk on to enjoy excellent views of the long island of Lismore and the Firth of Lorn.

5. Barr-nam-boc Bay

Once level with Barr-nam-boc Bay, a landrover track climbs sharply by a farmhouse. From the crest, it’s downhill all the way back to the slipway with ice cream en route at the Balliemore Farm shop. 

Scottish islands guide

The Scottish Isles are havens for wildlife and the perfect places to go when you want to get awau from it all. Our guide looks at a selection of Scotland’s most beautiful islands including Skye, Mull, Harris and Lewis, with advice on how to get there and the best things to do.

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Kerrera map

OS Maps: Kerrera walking route

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Useful information

Ferry to Kerrera

Buy ferry tickets on board the CalMac boat from Gallanach Slipway (PA34 4QH, free car park). The slipway is served by bus number 417 (limited service) from Oban bus station.

Terrain

Hilly, circular walk mostly on tracks. Some boggy path sections.

Map

OS Explorer 359

Swim

Wade into the narrow bay at Port a’ Chaisteil to enjoy this popular swimming spot. Exercise caution if the sea is rough.

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