Kirkby Lonsdale, Yorkshire Dales: what to see and where to eat

Kirkby Lonsdale is a handsome market town in the Yorkshire Dales, famed for its pretty cobbled streets, independent shops and delicious hot pies, saysHelen Moat

By Helen Moat

Published: Friday, 10 November 2023 at 19:27 PM

Your 60-second guide to Kirkby Lonsdale, filled with what to see and where to eat

Where is Kirkby Lonsdale?

This elegant Cumbrian town of Kirkby Lonsdale is a superb holiday centre – thanks to its enviable position, sandwiched between the Yorkshire Dales and Lake District National Parks as well as the Forest of Bowland and Arnside-and-Silverdale Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The elegant Devil’s Bridge at Kirkby Lonsdale is at least 700 years old. Image: Getty

What to see in Kirkby Lonsdale

Approaching from the southwest, stop at the Devil’s Bridge, where a sign warns No person shall without reasonable excuse jump Devil’s Bridge. It’s hard to imagine what a reasonable excuse would be. Instead wander over the imposing medieval three-arched crossing and along the River Lune past The Island to climb the Radical Steps (read steep) to St Mary’s Church, surrounded by greens of gravestones and a huddle of houses.

‘The valley of the Lune at Kirkby is one of the loveliest scenes in England, therefore in the world,’ wrote Victorian critic John Ruskin. The vista from St Mary’s churchyard, has since been known as Ruskin’s View. Image: Getty

Turner painted the River Lune and surrounding hills from the nearby Ruskin’s View (impressed by Turner’s painting, Ruskin waxed lyrical about the scene in his writings). While the viewpoint is presently closed, climb the steps of the stone-built gazebo at the north end of the churchyard to take in a bird’s-eye view of the surrounding woodlands and hills. Leave the church by the arched wrought-iron gate onto Church Street then Main Street with their attractive Victorian and Georgian buildings.

Kirkby Lonsdale’s shops and restaurants

Kirkby Lonsdale is known for its almost exclusively independent stores: art galleries, antique and home furnishing stores, quality clothing and gift shops. This is a town to explore at leisure, ducking down ginnels (alleyways) and courtyards.

Narrow street in a Yorkshire town
Lose yourself in the narrow cobbled streets of Kirkby Lonsdale. Image: Getty

Salt Pie Lane is just one of them. Formerly known as Cattle Market Yard, an enterprising local made hot salted mutton pies for the cattle traders (selling like hot cakes – or hot pies). Just a few steps away, enjoy your own lamb pie for lunch in the intimate courtyard of Lunesdale Bakery and you’ll see why the Dales are known for their delicious pastry bakes.

Before returning to the rustic but chic Sun Inn opposite the church for an evening meal and overnight, continue to the Market Square with its regal crown-shaped centre piece. The Gothic Tudor octagonal stone building is surrounded by colourful stalls on Thursdays, buzzing with the activity this thriving market town is known for.