Oxfordshire travel guide: things to see and do

By Ben Lerwill

Published: Wednesday, 21 December 2022 at 12:00 am

Oxfordshire is a county of magic, tradition and beauty, with rolling hills, towering steeples and ancient monuments. Whether your passion is for the annual regetta at Henley-on-Thames, the majestic colleges of Oxford or the delights of the county’s gastropubs, Oxfordshire has something to offer.

But where to go? The country’s most famous city is Oxford, the “city of dreaming spires”, which houses the internationally renowned colleges of the University of Oxford. The county is also known for its charming riverside towns and honey-stoned villages. From ancient sites to wild nature reserves, from the great estates to cosy gastro pubs, there is plenty to explore in the county. Don’t miss these great places to visit.

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Wayland Smithy on the Ridgeway in Oxfordshire at sunset/Credit: Getty

Where is Oxfordshire?

Oxfordshire sits plumply in the middle of southern England, with the Chiltern Hills to the east, the North Wessex Downs to the south and the Cotswolds on the west. This landlocked county is surrounded by Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Northamptonshire, Warwickshire, Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, but it is not bereft of water, as the River Thames snakes through its landscape.

Ancient sites of Oxfordshire

Uffington White Horse

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An aerial view of the prehistoric White Horse carved into the hillside at Uffington. /Credit: Getty

The extraordinary Uffington White Horse is a vast impressionistic hillside figure created more than 2,500 years ago. Carved in trenches filled with crushed chalk, the 110-metre outline acts as a beautiful, almost spectral, presence overlooking the fields of the North Wessex Downs. It was once the responsibility of the local lard to have the chalk cleaned and scoured every seven years; these days it is kept pristine by English Heritage. Located in the Vale of the White Horse, a swathe of countryside in the southwest of Oxfordshire, the figure is carved into the chalk of Dragon Hill, on the flank of the raised ancient trackway that forms the Ridgeway. It is the oldest of Britain’s white-horse figures, and distinctly different in style to those that followed later.

Rollright Stones

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The King’s Men Stone Circle, part of the Rollright Stones, Oxfordshire. /Credit: Getty

On the fringes of the Oxfordshire Cotswolds, the Rollright Stones are an ancient complex of limestone dolmens and standing stones, built on seemingly sacred ground over more than a millennium. The wind blows cold up here, whistling around the weathered megaliths. The site’s pagan connections make it a popular draw over the solstice period – it’s not unusual to find offerings of holly wreaths – but there are contemplative rewards to be had from visiting the stones at any time.

Wayland’s Smithy Long Barrow

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Wayland’s Smithy long barrow is a deeply atmospheric prehistoric site./Credit: Getty

A Neolithic burial chamber set within a ring of beech trees, this ancient site on the Ridgeway was once thought to be the forge of Wayland, the Saxon god of metal working. Legend has it that anyone who leaves gold and silver there over night will find their horse magically shod by morning. Visit both Wayland’s Smith and the Uffington White Horse on this Ridgeway walk.

Oxfordshire’s great estates

Blenheim Palace

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Built between 1705-1722, Blenheim Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage site. /Credit: Getty

To the north of Oxford lie the stunningly landscaped, 2,100-acre grounds of Blenheim Palace. Sir Randolph Churchill famously called the view here the finest in England, and when you witness a winter sunset over its rolling parkland, where lakes and trees are busied with overwintering birds such as snipe and siskins, you might well agree. The palace hosts dazzling celebrations around Christmas, with a large-scale light and illuminations display in the grounds.

Kingston Bagpuize House

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Kingston Bagpuize House./Credit: Michael Garlick

Kingston Bagpuize House doesn’t open its doors until late winter, but if you are here in February, it is well worth witnessing the emergence of its dainty, ice-white snowdrops. The house itself is an elegant manor dating to the 1660s, and the hushed, wooded grounds add to the allure. Certain parts have been cleared to allow no fewer than 16 naturalised varieties of snowdrops to flourish.

Oxfordshire towns and villages

Oxford

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The towering spires of Oxford create a striking skyline. /Credit: Getty

At Oxfordshire’s heart is the twinkling lodestar of Oxford itself. To stare out from the heights of Headington Hill – where the oaks and limes of South Park have dropped their leaves and clocked off until the spring – is to see the city as a storybook illustration, its spires and pinnacles rising above the rooftops. The slender turrets of Magdalen College Bell Tower occupy centre-stage, as they have done for more than 500 years. In the heart of town, the gaiety of the summer months is followed by something more timeless. Old customs still cling to the cobbles and the college quads: ancient inns and small shops dot the backstreets, music drifts from chapels, and crowds cluster in the 18th-century Covered Market for fruits and festive gifts. As it flows through the city, the River Thames winds past the cloisters of Christ Church College – where the Great Hall stands in wood-panelled grandeur – and out beyond the grassland of Christ Church Meadow.

Burford

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Built of local Cotswold stone, honey-coloured houses line the High Street of Burford./ Credit: Getty

The small, historical Cotswolds town of Burford harks back to the wealth of the local medieval wool trade. Its sloping High Street is these days complete with cosy tearooms and smart boutiques, while the town outskirts hold the upmarket Burford Garden Company, a kind of rural Harrods, where you will find everything from poinsettias to premium bottles of Christmas port.

Kingham

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Thatched cottage with pretty garden, Kingham, Oxfordshire, England./Credit: Getty

Heading further into the Cotswolds, little Kingham has previously been dubbed ‘England’s Favourite Village’. Expect thatched roofs, ivied walls and honey-stone cottages, as well as two superb food pubs in the form of the Wild Rabbit and the Kingham Plough. If you’re looking to work off a lengthy winter lunch, another long-distance footpath, the Oxfordshire Way, runs adjacent to the village. For a full-day walk that’s long enough to feel substantial but flat enough not to be overly exhausting, try following the trail on its serene 10.5-mile stint to Charlbury. Both Kingham and Charlbury sit on the scenic Cotswold Line, which sees regular passenger trains trundling to and from Oxford.

Chipping Norton

Remaining in the Oxfordshire Cotswolds, mention also must go to Chipping Norton, where the quirky theatre hosts a much-loved annual pantomime and (if you fancy braving the queues) produce can be procured mere minutes away at Jeremy Clarkson’s Diddly Squat Farm Shop.

Churchill

For its looks alone, the pretty hilltop village of Churchill merits a visit. Here, the 19th-century All Saints Church casts a lofty eye over the mellow, frosty valleys below – and was modelled on Oxford’s Magdalen College Bell Tower.

Watlington

The characterful town of Watlington lies at the foot of an escarpment, where timber-framed houses share the streets with Chilterns-style, flint-covered buildings.

Wallingford

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Wallingford is a popular beauty spot on the Thames in South Oxfordshire./Credit: Getty

This venerable old market town offers the Cholsey and Wallingford heritage railway and also sits close to the twin chalk hills of Wittenham Clumps. Named for the thickets of centuries-old beech trees at their summits and offering glorious views across the Thames Valley, they make the perfect location for a bracing, panoramic yomp. Think of it as a good way of working up a thirst before a visit to the nearby Grade II-listed Plough Inn, where log fires and guest ales are waiting.

Kelmscott

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Kelmscott is a secluded hamlet on the north bank of the river Thames./Credit: Getty

The artist and engraver William Morris described Kelmscott as “a heaven on earth” in a letter to his business partner Charles Faulkner, nearly 150 years ago, and today it still feels like a tranquil haven blocking out the rest of the world. At the end of a no-through road and set among flat fields bordering the River Thames, it is obvious why Morris chose this pocket of West Oxfordshire as his country retreat from the noise and industrial turmoil of London. A dozen dozing cows graze in a small pasture bumping up against an old house, dry-stone walls frame neat gardens of old farmworkers cottages clustered around the medieval church. The only commotion is the whispering of treetops mingled with the trills and whistles of birds and the low hum of busy insects.

Henley on Thames

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Watch the annual regetta or stroll the river path at Henley-on-Thames/Credit: Getty

Founded in the 12th-century as a river crossing and port for the supply of grain and timber along the river to London, this pretty market town on the banks of the River Thames is cloaked by the Chiltern Hills and is best known for the world-famous regatta, which it hosts each year in early July. Enjoy a stroll along a peaceful stretch of the Thames following the regatta course.

Where to stay

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Exterior view of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Oxfordshire in winter./Credit: Getty

Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, Great Milton

A manor house hotel with two Michelin stars, this much-vaunted luxury property is decidedly pricey, but it has a sparkle of its own over winter. belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons

The Greyhound Inn, Letcombe Regis

Sitting in the village of Letcombe Regis, about a mile from the Ridgeway National Trail, the Greyhound Inn is a cosy country pub with eight guestrooms. It’s a classy affair with seriously good food. thegreyhoundletcombe.co.uk

Malmaison, Oxford

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Malmaison Oxford has renovated a former prison into elegant accommodation./Credit: Malmaison

City hotels don’t come much more unusual than this smart 95-room getaway set in a former prison. Thankfully, today’s comfort levels are just what you need after a day exploring Oxford’s colleges and backstreets.

Where to eat and drink

The Double Red Duke, Bampton

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The Double Red Duke in Bampton./Credit: WeTheFoodSnobs

The town of Bampton has found fame in recent years as the location of numerous scenes in Downton Abbey, and the Double Red Duke offers the same mix of indulgence and old-world comforts. The pub’s food is a highlight – local produce is key – and the wine list is reassuringly hefty.

The Perch, Binsey

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Enjoy traditional and delicious pub fare at The Perch./Credit: The Perch

Set within wandering distance of central Oxford, yet managing to feel a world away, this thatched 17th-century inn sits on the banks of the Thames. The food has a British farmhouse feel – and muddy dogs and winter walkers are always welcome.

The Chequers, Churchill

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The beautiful, wood-beamed interior of The Chequers, Churchill. /Credit: Country Creatures

Flagstones, fireplaces, local beer and arty décor set the tone for this enjoyable gastropub, where the bar snacks range from Scotch eggs to Padron peppers and the cask ales include regional favourite Hooky, brewed by nearby Hook Norton Brewery.

The Swan Inn, Swinbrook

French former president Francois Hollande was once brought here during a state visit, to give him a taste of an authentic English pub. It was a fine choice – The Swan Inn is set on the chuckling River Windrush and has barrel-loads of traditional character.

Farm shops

Wykham Park Farm Shop, near Banbury

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Brightly coloured fresh tomatoes at Wykham Park Farm Shop./Credit: Wykham Park Farm Shop

Wykham Park is the real deal – the fruit and veg is grown on the farm, the cattle and sheep are raised here, and the cheese counter groans under the weight of more than 50 varieties. There is also a top-notch café on site, called Farm & Table.

Bruern Farms, Bruern

Bruern Farms is an environmentally aware venture with a great little farm shop stocking everything from freshly baked bread to venison from Bruern Woods.

Waterperry Farm Shop, Waterperry

The farm here is geared towards raising livestock in the most natural way possible, so you can expect the same ethos when it comes to the shop produce. Waterperry Farm Shop neighbours the impressive Waterperry Gardens, open year-round.

Nature reserves

Chimney Meadows Nature Reserve

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A murmuration over Chimney Meadows, near Abingdon, Oxfordshire./Credit: Denis Kennedy

Chimney Meadows, a national nature reserve lies next to the Thames, near Abingdon. Over winter, some of its meadows flood, making it a refuge for snipe, curlews and other waders. Look out, too, for lapwings and short-eared owls.

Warburg Nature Reserve

High on the Chiltern escarpment and open all winter for walkers and wildlife-watchers, Warburg Nature Reserve is an enjoyably wild reserve that offers glimpses of goldcrests, crossbills, stoats or weasels. The nights are exceptionally cold. Don’t forget your jumper.

Sydlings Copse Nature Reserve

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Sunlight glint through woodland at Sydlings Copse Nature Reserve./Credit: Andy Fairburn

Sheltered in a valley just a few miles from Oxford, Sydlings Copse Nature Reserve is small but manages to incorporate heathland, broadleaved woodland, grasslands and reedbeds. Winter visitors might be treated to tits, thrushes, roe deer and more.