Catch the boat from Glenridding across Ullswater to nearby Howtown, then enjoy a 7-mile hill walk back via the 657m summit of Place Fell.

By Vivienne Crow

Published: Saturday, 17 June 2023 at 12:00 am

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Is there a better way to start a fell walk than with a boat trip across Ullswater? With imposing mountains shrinking boat and passengers into appropriate perspective, it’s hard not to be awed by this magnificent natural arena.

Judge for yourself by catching the ‘steamer’ from Glenridding to Howtown. Lakeside trails, magical woods and open fells then vie for your attention as you walk back via Place Fell. Keep eyes (and ears) open for the red deer that roam Lakeland’s eastern fringes.

If the idea of climbing to the 657m summit of Place Fell doesn’t appeal, why not try our low-level route from Howtown back to Glenridding?

Lake District walks

Of all the national parks in Britain, the Lake District in North England is arguably the most celebrated – discover the area’s fells, rivers, waters and towns with our guide to the best walks in the Lake District National Park.

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Place Fell walk

7 miles/11.6km | 4.5 hours | challenging | 595m ascent

1. Howtown

From Howtown’s pier, walk the shore path, with the water on your right.

Reaching a lane, turn right and then left through a gate. A short rise leads to another gate, beyond which you head right along the base of Hallin Fell, soon enjoying views across the lake.

Keep to the lakeshore path through Hallinhag Wood, home to the Poetry Stones – moss-covered boulders inscribed with verse by poet Kathleen Raine.

2. Sandwick Beck

The trees are replaced by meadows and a bridge is crossed over Sandwick Beck. Turn left along the lane through peaceful Sandwick and, just after the last building, take the trail on the right, climbing beside a wall.

3. Sandwick

About 0.5 miles beyond Sandwick, take the path rising left after a ford and immediately fork right (south-west). This winds its way up on to flatter, damper ground where it nearly vanishes.

4. Place Fell

Head south-west, passing a sheepfold and climbing to Place Fell’s trig pillar (657m). Perched on a jagged lump of rock, this airy spot provides a heart-stopping perspective on the Helvellyn range across the valley.

5. Round How

Walk south along the fell’s western edge, watching for red deer on the slopes below. Even if they prove elusive, there’s a chance, in autumn, of hearing the roar of rutting stags.

About 380 yards beyond the summit, bear right along a trail bypassing the rocky descent of Round How. On reaching a clear path, turn right, soon descending steeply on a partly pitched, zig-zagging trail.

6. Patterdale

Paths converge on flat ground near Boredale Hause. Keep right here to descend a stony path. Nearing some cottages, ignore a path to the right; instead, drop through a gate and turn right. Pass between the buildings on the left at Side Farm and follow the track to Patterdale.

7. Glenridding

Turn right, using a series of roadside paths to return to Glenridding. A path immediately after St Patrick’s Boat Landing provides access to the shore and returns you to the Ullswater ‘Steamer’ car park.

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Useful information

Starting point

Catch the Ullswater ‘Steamer’ from Glenridding to start the walk from Howtown (01768 482229). There are pay-and-display car parks in Glenridding, including one at the pier, CA11 0US; or catch the 508 bus from Penrith to Glenridding.

Terrain

Lakeshore; woodland; open fell with steady ascent but steep, stony descent; farm track; roadside trails.

Map

OS Explorer OL5

Eat/drink

The White Lion Inn, 400 yards off route in Patterdale, serves up simple, reasonably priced pub grub (017684 82214)

Stay

Side Farm has a basic lakeside campsite, suitable for tents and small campervans (017684 82337)

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