By Vivienne Crow

Published: Friday, 16 September 2022 at 12:00 am

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The villages, woods, rivers and waters of Borrowdale are among the best places to experience the Lake District National Park.

Slate-built farmhouses and white-washed cottages sit surrounded by walled enclosures grazed by traditional Herdwick sheep, down from the fells for tupping. Rugged slopes rear up on either side of the valley, while oak, birch, ash, larch and wild cherry each contribute a different hue to the woodland kaleidoscope.

A great way to experience Borrowdale is to catch the 
78 bus from outside Booths supermarket in Keswick to the tiny hamlet of Seatoller, near the valley head. Having gaped at the vibrant display through the bus windows, enjoy it at a more leisurely pace by walking back through ancient woods beside the River Derwent and the shores of Derwent Water. The friendly pubs and cafés of Rosthwaite and Grange offer opportunities for refuelling and warming up along the way.

Discover more great walks in the Lake District:

• Walk: Cat Bells, Cumbria
• Walk: Rydal and Grasmere, Cumbria
• Walk: Aira Force to Raise, Cumbria

Seatoller to Keswick walk

1. Seatoller start

Start from the far end of the National Trust’s Seatoller car park, where 
a track leads uphill and through a gate. 
At an early fork, stay on the lower path, weaving in and 
out of tranquil oak woods, where wrens ‘tic-tic-tic’ from moss-draped walls, and liverworts and lichens drip from the tree trunks. At the edge of the River Derwent, the route turns sharp left and negotiates bare rock. A length of wire provides security here.

2. Right at Rosthwaite

Follow YHA Borrowdale’s access lane over the river. 
As this bends right at Peat Howe Barn, take the path on the left, across the fields. On the edge of Rosthwaite, turn right and quickly left along a lane, emerging opposite the Flock In tearoom, which serves homemade cream teas, as well as pasties and stews from the farm’s Herdwick meat.

3. Bridge the flow

Turn left along the track, later recrossing the Derwent via a humpback bridge. Turn right and select the right-hand of two gates.

4. Reds and roes

After entering atmospheric woods along the base of Castle Crag, watch for roe deer and red squirrels, which are busy preparing their food stashes for the coming winter. The clear path winds its way beneath small crags as well as caves and piles of slate, both remnants of former quarrying operations. Soon after one such quarrying area, bear 
right at a fork, climbing to
a junction to go right again.

5. Gorgeous Grange

Dropping to where Broadslack Gill enters the River Derwent, cross the footbridge over this tributary stream, followed quickly by a second. Turn right along a rough track and right again to follow a lane into Grange, a village that owes its origins to the monks of Furness Abbey, who built a grange (a farm belonging to a monastery) here in medieval times.

6. Derwent views

Turn left, walking along the road for two-thirds of a mile, and then take the clear path, signed to Lodore, through the gate on the right. After two more gates, the heathland near the southern end of Derwent Water opens ahead. Keep left and then fork right.

7. Shadow of Skiddaw

Reaching a gravel path near the lakeshore, turn left. Go right along a narrow lane at a woodland cottage. Bear left at a fork and then, just after a small bridge, bear right. With mighty Skiddaw putting in frequent appearances, the path hugs the lakeshore and re-enters the woods near High Brandelhow pier. Tired walkers can catch the boat to Keswick from this pier or from any one of three others on this side of the lake: Low Brandelhow, Hawse End and Nichol End.

8. Woodland way

From this first pier, keep close to the water as far as Low Brandelhow pier. Then go left, right, and right again in front 
of Hawes End outdoor centre. A woodland path is joined via 
a gate on the right soon after the path down to the Hawes End pier is passed. At Lingholm’s driveway, cross 
the lane diagonally left and then continue on the path towards Keswick.

9. On to Keswick

Go left along Nichol End Marine’s access lane and turn right at the road. At a left bend in Portinscale, take the lane on the right. Soon after the suspension bridge, turn right along a path between fields. Go left at a lane and then right at the road into Keswick.

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Seatoller to Keswick map

Seatoller to Keswick walking route and map

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