{"id":15832,"date":"2022-05-05T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-05-04T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/?post_type=purple_issue&p=15832"},"modified":"2022-05-12T11:23:16","modified_gmt":"2022-05-12T09:23:16","slug":"discover-the-north-pennies","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/2022\/05\/05\/discover-the-north-pennies\/","title":{"rendered":"Discover: The north pennies"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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After starting as a trickle on the heathercovered North Pennine fells, in the ancient Teesdale woodlands, the River Tees careers over the Whin Sill, plunging 21 metres into the pool below. View spectacular High Force waterfall from the Pennine Way trail <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Discover: The north pennies<\/h4>\n\n

Land of waterfalls and wildflowers<\/h2>\n\n

The three mighty rivers of South Tyne, Wear and Tees all arise in the high moorlands of Cumbria. Walk the glacial valleys, plunging cascades, burbling streams and bloom-filled meadows of these North Pennines uplands with Susie White<\/p>\n\n

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The Rivers East and West Allen meet near Whitfield to form the River Allen in Northumberland <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

I<\/span>t is the sounds that are particularly soothing. The river tumbling over small falls, resonating bell-like into pools, tinkling quietly in smoother flows.Lying here on this summer\u2019s day, lulled by the scent of thyme in sheep-cropped turf, I watch a grey wagtail bob-bobbing its way across the rocks. On the opposite bank, a vast spread of mountain pansies in every shade of blue and purple. Light dances across the surface of this, the East Allen river.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Allendale means \u2018valley of the shining water\u2019. It\u2019s a name that could be used to describe any of the North Pennine dales.These lovely uplands are threaded through by shining waters that make their way down from the high fells. Yet the three famous rivers of South Tyne, Wear and Tees, beginning as striplings in the wild boggy ground of Cross Fell, will eventually issue into the North Sea among cities and industry. <\/span>They see many contrasts on their journey.<\/p>\n\n

Cross Fell is on the west side of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Designated in 1988 for its moorland scenery, this is one of the most undiscovered areas of England. You can walk all day and hardly see anyone. Peaceful and unspoilt, and with less intensive agriculture, it\u2019s a landscape abounding with rare flowers and bird and animal life.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

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The River West Allen begins its journey on Coalcleugh Moor in the North Pennines AONB Photos: Getty, Alamy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

It was not always this way. For centuries, the area was heavily quarried for stone and mined for coal and minerals, such as lead, fluorspar and zinc. At the peak of the leadmining industry, twice as many people lived here than now. Coalcleugh, <\/strong>said to be the highest hamlet in England, had a population of over 200; now there\u2019s just a scattering of remote houses. The hardships of mining life, working at 533 metres up and through harsh winters, are recorded in the place names: <\/span>Shivery Hill, Roughside and Scum Hill.<\/p>\n\n

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On the boundary between Cumbria and Country Durham, the River Tees cascades down Cauldron Snout \u2013 said to be England\u2019s longest waterfall at 180m <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
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The Teesdale violet, Viola rupestris, is a member of the Teesdale Assemblage \u2013a group of rare Arctic and alpine plants growing in the area that are thought to be relics of the last Ice Age<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

It was the geology of this area that made it such a rich place to plunder. The sequences of rocks \u2013 limestone, shale, sandstone, coal and limestone \u2013 provided materials to quarry for building and industry. Valleys that were carved out by glaciers and rivers became sheltered places for settlement and farming. The erosive action of rivers revealed great mineral wealth. This process was simulated in \u2018hushing\u2019 \u2013 damming then releasing streams so the torrent excavated the mineral veins. The evidence is particularly noticeable on a summer evening, picked out by the deepening shadows.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

\u201cTHESE LOVELY UPLANDS ARE THREADED THROUGH BY SHINING WATERS\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n

The most spectacular geological formation is the deep chasm of High Cup Nick. On its upper sides are columns of dolerite, part of the Whin Sill, a hard volcanic rock that squeezed up through sedimentary layers as molten magma. Below these dizzying sides, the vast U-shaped glaciated valley drops away, offering incredible views out to the west. It\u2019s a full day\u2019s circular walk to High Cup Nick from Teesdale, passing by the roaring waterfall of Cauldron Snout and by Cow Green Reservoir. The area is of great importance to botanists, as rare alpine and last Ice Age can be seen here, including spring gentian and lilac-pink bird\u2019s eye primrose. The Teesdale violet grows here on Widdybank Fell and there are woods of nationally scarce wild juniper.<\/p>\n\n

TOURING THE TEES<\/span><\/h4>\n\n

This land lies within Moor House \u2013 Upper Teesdale National Nature Reserve, where you can also find the headwaters of the Tees. The modest beginnings of this famous river are among angular rocks and rushes close by the Pennine Way as it leads to the summit of Cross Fell. Upper Teesdale gives a rare <\/span>chance to see a ring ouzel, an upland species that looks like a slim blackbird with a striking white bib. Near the village of Langdon <\/strong>Beck <\/strong>is a well-known lekking site for black grouse but you need to be up at dawn to watch the males display and strut in their finery.<\/p>\n\n