{"id":17801,"date":"2022-08-04T12:53:34","date_gmt":"2022-08-04T10:53:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/?post_type=purple_issue&#038;p=17801"},"modified":"2022-08-04T12:53:34","modified_gmt":"2022-08-04T10:53:34","slug":"the-coleridge-way","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/2022\/08\/04\/the-coleridge-way\/","title":{"rendered":"The Coleridge way"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"no-tts wp-block-image alignfull size-large article-in-image photo\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/7AGB3407G1696HC7F60H34MD903C-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18148\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/7AGB3407G1696HC7F60H34MD903C-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/7AGB3407G1696HC7F60H34MD903C-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/7AGB3407G1696HC7F60H34MD903C-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/7AGB3407G1696HC7F60H34MD903C-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/7AGB3407G1696HC7F60H34MD903C.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>The Bristol Channel glitters on the horizon as Ben walks a part of the South West Coast Path that intersects with the last leg of the Coleridge Way. This is the very scenery that inspired Samuel Taylor Coleridge, William Wordsworth and, indeed, the birth of the Romantic Movement itself<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<h2 class=\"has-text-align-center\">The Coleridge way<\/h2>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center intro\">It\u2019s 250 years since the birth of Samuel Taylor Coleridge, the great poet and lover of nature and landscape. <strong>Ben Lerwill <\/strong>celebrates by exploring a spectacular hiking route named in the poet\u2019s honour, through the lovely hills of West Somerset <\/p>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/VP0J8F2G015L2U4WDY63ER8JKHV2-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18149\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/VP0J8F2G015L2U4WDY63ER8JKHV2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/VP0J8F2G015L2U4WDY63ER8JKHV2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/VP0J8F2G015L2U4WDY63ER8JKHV2-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/VP0J8F2G015L2U4WDY63ER8JKHV2-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/VP0J8F2G015L2U4WDY63ER8JKHV2.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>In 2011, a major National Trust project restored Coleridge Cottage in Nether Stowey to how it would have looked in Coleridge\u2019s day<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\"><em><span class=\"has-inline-color has-ccp-primary-dark-color\">&#8216;In <strong>Xanadu did Kubla Khan A stately pleasure dome decree: <\/strong>Where Alph, the sacred river, ran Through caverns measureless to man Down to a sunless sea.\u2019<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">These words, conjured in a 1797 postopium haze by a Romantic poet and subsequently taught to generations of inky-fingered schoolchildren, still echo with the exotic strangeness of distant lands. But the poem\u2019s roots are far closer to home. The lines were penned \u2013 or rather quilled \u2013 in a squat Exmoor farmhouse overlooking the Bristol Channel, in a part of the country deeply familiar to the poem\u2019s moon-eyed author. Jump forward to today and I\u2019m leaning on a five-bar gate at the edge of the same farm, enjoying billowing views across the sea towards Wales. <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">The writer in question, of course, was Samuel Taylor Coleridge, a man whose literary reputation still ripples through the centuries. His works, such as <em>The <\/em><em>Rime <\/em><em>of <\/em><em>the <\/em><em>Ancient <\/em><em>Mariner <\/em>and <em>Kubla <\/em><em>Khan, <\/em>will continue to be referenced long into the future. Coleridge was born in the Devon town of Ottery St Mary in October 1772 \u2013 almost exactly 250 years ago \u2013 and grew up <span>He remains highly influential today, despite the fact that his 61 years were plagued by both anxiety and addiction. \u201cHis genius,\u201d wrote the 19th-century critic William Hazlitt, \u201chad angelic wings.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n\n<section class=\"wp-block-uagb-section uagb-section__wrap uagb-section__background-color uagb-block-8ab409ee-ca24-4922-a66c-e00d54a3ada7 article-boxout\"><div class=\"uagb-section__overlay\"><\/div><div class=\"uagb-section__inner-wrap\">\n<h4 class=\"has-text-align-center article-subhead\"><span class=\"has-inline-color has-ccp-primary-dark-color\">LIFE OF A TROUBLED GENIUS <\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1b3eb068-ed80-4a04-8916-12d7a1ded793.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-17789\" width=\"239\" height=\"285\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1b3eb068-ed80-4a04-8916-12d7a1ded793.jpg 478w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1b3eb068-ed80-4a04-8916-12d7a1ded793-252x300.jpg 252w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 239px) 100vw, 239px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">Born on 21 October 1772, Coleridge grew up in rural Devon. He was just eight years old when his father \u2013 avicar and headmaster \u2013 died suddenly. A place for him was arranged at Christ\u2019s Hospital School in London, where his love of reading blossomed. There followed a scholarship to Jesus College, Cambridge, which saw him develop a deep interest in both poetry and politics. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">He married Sara Fricker in 1795 \u2013 despite four children, the union was not a happy one \u2013 and started a long acquaintance with William Wordsworth. Coleridge began exploring Romantic ideas in his writing and, after moving to Nether Stowey, worked with Wordsworth to produce the hugely influential <em>Lyrical <\/em><em>Ballads. <\/em>He spent time living in the Lake District, and despite long-term drug use and financial troubles, continued to write in his later years, drawing wide praise for <em>Biographia <\/em><em>Literaria, <\/em>a collection of his thoughts on literature. He died in London on 25 July 1834, aged 61, of heart failure. <\/p>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo\"><figure class=\"no-tts alignright size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0JY4V6A4CAZN57JVL0E1FS7269KZ-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18150\" width=\"220\" height=\"330\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0JY4V6A4CAZN57JVL0E1FS7269KZ-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0JY4V6A4CAZN57JVL0E1FS7269KZ-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0JY4V6A4CAZN57JVL0E1FS7269KZ-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0JY4V6A4CAZN57JVL0E1FS7269KZ-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0JY4V6A4CAZN57JVL0E1FS7269KZ.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 220px) 100vw, 220px\" \/><figcaption>Perhaps Coleridge sat at a writing desk such as this, in the parlour at Coleridge Cottage to become not just a hugely important poet but also a critic, philosopher and theologian. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<h5 class=\"article-subhead\"><strong><span class=\"has-inline-color has-ccp-primary-dark-color\">A WRITER\u2019S LANDSCAPE <\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">The soft valleys and coastal meadows of West Somerset and North Devon might lack the lavish Mongolian palaces of Xanadu, but they clearly held enough to enchant Coleridge, who passed some of his most fruitful years here. I\u2019m finding this out in one of the most enjoyable ways possible, by spending three late-summer days meandering along the 51-mile Coleridge Way. The trail begins in the Quantock Hills before undulating gently \u2013 and occasionally steeply \u2013 across Exmoor to the coast. <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">The walking route ostensibly links various locations associated with Coleridge\u2019s life, although its creators have, to their credit, given equal priority to the joys of a scenic ramble. On a prosaic note, the route was opened as recently as 2005 as a means of attracting more visitors <em>(\u2018In <\/em><em>Somerset <\/em><em>did <\/em><em>county <\/em><em>clerks\/ <\/em><em>A <\/em><em>stately <\/em><em>hiking <\/em><em>trail <\/em><em>decree\u2019), <\/em>but the end result, in any case, is a path that combines the sweet wilds of the West Country and the lingering ardour of the Georgian era with the steady, salty aired stomp of a long-distance walk. <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">My journey begins in the village of Nether Stowey, above which some of the last martins of the summer, shortly bound for Africa, are flitting through blue September skies. Beyond a terrace of neat stone houses I find the stocky, cream-coloured dwelling that marks the trail\u2019s official start point: <span>Coleridge Cottage, where the poet lived with his wife Sara and young son Hartley for three years, from 1797. It\u2019s closed on my <\/span>visit, for reasons unexplained (Romantic poets\u2019 houses, it seems, are as capricious as Romantic poets themselves), so I don\u2019t get to see first-hand the open fireplaces and wildflower garden that helped the little place to feel like a home. It\u2019s known that Coleridge\u2019s great friend and contemporary William Wordsworth was a regular guest here with his sister, Dorothy.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1546\" height=\"2048\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0bf830a8-7501-44a7-9f3c-7bf1954148e8.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-17790\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0bf830a8-7501-44a7-9f3c-7bf1954148e8.jpg 1546w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0bf830a8-7501-44a7-9f3c-7bf1954148e8-226x300.jpg 226w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0bf830a8-7501-44a7-9f3c-7bf1954148e8-773x1024.jpg 773w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0bf830a8-7501-44a7-9f3c-7bf1954148e8-768x1017.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0bf830a8-7501-44a7-9f3c-7bf1954148e8-1160x1536.jpg 1160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1546px) 100vw, 1546px\" \/><figcaption>Light filters through overarching boughs on many sunken holloways along the route, some of which are ancient paths \u2013 to churches or market towns \u2013 dating from the Dark Ages <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">The locked front door, however, is not a major issue. Despite composing many of his best-known works here in Somerset, Coleridge seldom wrote at home, preferring to seek inspiration beyond his four walls. He was a prolific walker, not just here in the West Country but in Snowdonia, the Lake District, Scotland and even the German highlands. It\u2019s said that, while living in Nether Stowey, he would sometimes cover 40 miles just to pick up books from Bristol Library. I turn, tighten my pack-straps, and follow the path into the hills.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">Within minutes of climbing out of the village, I\u2019m in a world of giant oaks, shining holly and slanting, sheep-chewed grasslands. A kestrel hangs on the breeze.<span>The Bristol Channel appears to the north, big and glassy. Present, too, on the shoreline is Hinkley Point Power Station, one of the most glaring differences between the view today and that of more than 200 years ago, when Coleridge described this panorama as \u2018The <\/span><em>many-steepled <\/em><em>tract <\/em><em>magnificent\/<\/em>Of hilly fields and meadows, and the sea\/ With some fair bark, perhaps, whose sails light up\/ The slip of smooth clear blue betwixt two isles.\u2019<span>You can still glimpse the same twin islands of Steep Holm and Flat Holm \u2013 the former in England, the latter in Wales \u2013 offshore.<\/span><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">My first day takes me to the hamlet of Roadwater, a long but entrancing 18-mile journey across the Quantocks to the bulkier contours of Exmoor National Park. I trace <span>airy hillsides, cross clear-running streams and meander through sunken holloways.<\/span>Beside the path, early blackberries cluster in frothing green hedgerows. The route is studded with sleepy villages, where <em>Test <\/em><em>Match <\/em><em>Special <\/em>drifts from open windows and snoozing Labradors raise their heads at my arrival. I pass remote Alfoxton Park, the<span>house where the Wordsworths spent a year as tenants after being wooed by the surrounding hillscapes.<\/span><\/p>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"896\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/79CBGW7B3L2EAC6TC5CJRA6EJXTG-896x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18153\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/79CBGW7B3L2EAC6TC5CJRA6EJXTG-896x1024.jpg 896w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/79CBGW7B3L2EAC6TC5CJRA6EJXTG-263x300.jpg 263w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/79CBGW7B3L2EAC6TC5CJRA6EJXTG-768x878.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/79CBGW7B3L2EAC6TC5CJRA6EJXTG-1344x1536.jpg 1344w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/79CBGW7B3L2EAC6TC5CJRA6EJXTG.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 896px) 100vw, 896px\" \/><figcaption>Clockwise from top:  Drink in sweeping views of the Bristol Channel at the foot of the Quantock Hills, a view described by Coleridge in his poem This Lime-Tree Bower My Prison; look out for kestrels in the Quantocks, hovering over open country searching for prey; hedgerows line the route out of Nether Stowey<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<figure class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1021\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/f0e3367d-0124-4b58-b18d-862ad501d632.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-17792\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/f0e3367d-0124-4b58-b18d-862ad501d632.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/f0e3367d-0124-4b58-b18d-862ad501d632-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/f0e3367d-0124-4b58-b18d-862ad501d632-1024x511.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/f0e3367d-0124-4b58-b18d-862ad501d632-768x383.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/f0e3367d-0124-4b58-b18d-862ad501d632-1536x766.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><figcaption>Ben descends gently folding hills in Exmoor National Park on his way into the village of Oare<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">When I finally reach my stop for the night, at the horse-brass-covered Valiant Soldier, the landlord gestures me straight to a table.<span>\u201cI expect you\u2019ll be wanting sustenance first,\u201d he ascertains, correctly. I\u2019ve split the walk into three days of more or less equal lengths, although of course it\u2019s perfectly possible \u2013 and probably advisable for the sake of your legs \u2013 to stretch it out for longer.<\/span><\/p>\n\n<h5 class=\"article-subhead\"><strong><span class=\"has-inline-color has-ccp-primary-dark-color\">ON INTO EXMOOR <\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">Early the next morning, breakfasted, I continue west into Exmoor proper along rollercoaster country lanes. The verges fizz with late-summer greenery, and I follow them into the towering conifers of Langridge Wood, soundtracked by brookburble and robin-song. An hour later, the views are deeper: all buzzard-flown valleys and patchworked fields. A twittering, 20-strong charm of goldfinches materialises from nowhere. The inclines become more punishing, but the scenic rewards more than offset the hardship. <\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1351\" height=\"889\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0c59eb2f-2cb9-43b2-9346-431591bfff9d.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-17795\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0c59eb2f-2cb9-43b2-9346-431591bfff9d.jpg 1351w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0c59eb2f-2cb9-43b2-9346-431591bfff9d-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0c59eb2f-2cb9-43b2-9346-431591bfff9d-1024x674.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/0c59eb2f-2cb9-43b2-9346-431591bfff9d-768x505.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1351px) 100vw, 1351px\" \/><figcaption> Find a bed for the night in the pretty village of Roadwater, beside the River Washford<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">About 30 miles into the trail, having faithfully followed its quill-adorned waymarkers into Devon, it dawns on me that I\u2019ve passed only two other walkers, and they were together. This thought makes it almost impossible not to feel transported by the route\u2019s dappled slopes, mossy oak woods and lovely hillside-teetering paths. As Coleridge wrote in his poem <em>To Nature: <\/em>\u2018So <em>will I build my altar in the fields\/ And the blue sky my fretted dome shall be\/ And the sweet fragrance that the wild flower yields\/Shall be the incense I will yield to Thee\/Thee only God!\u2019 <\/em>Samuel, I know the feeling.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">In the afternoon I pass Webber\u2019s Post, arguably the most famous lookout along the trail, as evidenced by its National Trust car park. It grants wonderful panoramas across rumpled hills towards Dunkery Beacon, although \u2013 and keep this under your hat \u2013 the views are merely on a par with other, quieter spots along the Exmoor sections of the route. Porlock Bay is soon visible, too, and by the time I walk into Porlock village, where I\u2019m overnighting at The Ship Inn, I\u2019ve reached that delicious frame of mind familiar to regular hikers, perhaps best described as equal parts fatigue and bliss. <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">The mention of Porlock, for all its traditional, thatched-roof charms, can induce groans from fans of Coleridge. While writing <em>Kubla <\/em><em>Khan, <\/em>the poet was famously interrupted by a \u201cperson on business from Porlock\u201d, bringing his trance-like state of mind, and the poem itself, to an abrupt end. <span>It has never been ascertained who this might have been, or indeed whether Coleridge simply fabricated the tale, but the next morning I follow what may have been the same route of this mysterious visitor, winding up through Worthy Wood to reach the open fields around Ash Farm. This is the farmhouse where the poem was created \u2013 although, some suggest it might have been written at neighbouring Parsonage Farm \u2013 and tees up a glorious final day of walking.<\/span><\/p>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"896\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/J10GC5O86BE40YF6298J6VS3REI3-896x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/J10GC5O86BE40YF6298J6VS3REI3-896x1024.jpg 896w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/J10GC5O86BE40YF6298J6VS3REI3-263x300.jpg 263w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/J10GC5O86BE40YF6298J6VS3REI3-768x878.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/J10GC5O86BE40YF6298J6VS3REI3-1344x1536.jpg 1344w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/J10GC5O86BE40YF6298J6VS3REI3.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 896px) 100vw, 896px\" \/><figcaption>Clockwise from top: St Mary\u2019s Church in Oare \u2013 where the heroine was shot in RD Blackmore\u2019s novel Lorna Doone \u2013 is nestled in a beautiful Exmoor comb; it\u2019s said Coleridge wrote his incomplete poem Kubla Khan while staying at secluded Ash Farm; The stables at Parsonage Farm are now a charming B&amp;B<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<figure class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1546\" height=\"2048\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/aa6df4c8-cf74-4ac9-b7a9-a0f1c586d699.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-17800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/aa6df4c8-cf74-4ac9-b7a9-a0f1c586d699.jpg 1546w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/aa6df4c8-cf74-4ac9-b7a9-a0f1c586d699-226x300.jpg 226w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/aa6df4c8-cf74-4ac9-b7a9-a0f1c586d699-773x1024.jpg 773w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/aa6df4c8-cf74-4ac9-b7a9-a0f1c586d699-768x1017.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/aa6df4c8-cf74-4ac9-b7a9-a0f1c586d699-1160x1536.jpg 1160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1546px) 100vw, 1546px\" \/><figcaption>After your day of walking, wander around the 15th-century harbour at Porlock Weir for a relaxing spot of crabbing at low tide<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<h5 class=\"article-subhead\"><strong><span class=\"has-inline-color has-ccp-primary-dark-color\">REJOICING BY THE SEASHORE <\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">It\u2019s a joy to ramble downhill into Oare, still home to the little church where the heroine is shot in RD Blackmore\u2019s iconic novel <em>Lorna <\/em><em>Doone. <\/em>Centre stage are the Exmoor clefts, combes and wind-bent trees that so attracted Coleridge, giving mile after mile of magnificent moorland roaming. <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">The final stretch is along the wooded, sonorous East Lyn River, which marks the boundary between Somerset and Devon. I follow the river as it flows through boulders and deep pools into Lynmouth. The coastal town, surrounded by soaring cliffs, would be a fine terminus for any trail, and it\u2019s fun to be finishing among a bustle of ice-cream shops and day-trippers. But beyond them lies the sea, the real endpoint. \u2018Ships <em>and waves, and ceaseless motion\u2019, <\/em>as Coleridge had it, in his poem <em>On Revisiting the Sea-Shore. <\/em>\u2018And <em>men rejoicing on thy shore.\u2019 <\/em>And if you can\u2019t rejoice after a 51-mile walk through the West Country, then when can you?<\/p>\n\n<hr class=\"no-tts wp-block-separator is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo\"><figure class=\"no-tts alignleft size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/C79ZAX3U252S8E0M0V47BH24JVR6-762x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18155\" width=\"80\" height=\"107\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/C79ZAX3U252S8E0M0V47BH24JVR6-762x1024.jpg 762w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/C79ZAX3U252S8E0M0V47BH24JVR6-223x300.jpg 223w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/C79ZAX3U252S8E0M0V47BH24JVR6-768x1032.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/C79ZAX3U252S8E0M0V47BH24JVR6.jpg 1072w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 80px) 100vw, 80px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\"><strong>Ben Lerwill <\/strong>is an award-winning freelance travel and wildlife writer and photographer who lives in Oxfordshire. <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">His books for children include <em>Around the World in 80 Trees <\/em>and <em>Let\u2019s Go Outside! <\/em>(Welbeck Children\u2019s). <\/p>\n\n<hr class=\"no-tts wp-block-separator is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n<h4 class=\"has-text-align-center\"><span class=\"has-inline-color has-ccp-primary-dark-color\">NOW WALK THE COLERIDGE WAY<\/span><\/h4>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\"><strong>Where to sleep, eat and drink along the route, by Ben Lerwill <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image infographic is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/dae7ef1a-17ff-4f20-ba27-0d1682dd8270.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-17806\" width=\"1024\" height=\"559\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/dae7ef1a-17ff-4f20-ba27-0d1682dd8270.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/dae7ef1a-17ff-4f20-ba27-0d1682dd8270-300x164.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/dae7ef1a-17ff-4f20-ba27-0d1682dd8270-1024x559.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/dae7ef1a-17ff-4f20-ba27-0d1682dd8270-768x419.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/dae7ef1a-17ff-4f20-ba27-0d1682dd8270-1536x839.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<h5 class=\"has-text-align-center article-subhead has-ccp-primary-light-background-color has-text-color has-background\" style=\"color:#ffffff\"><strong><span style=\"color:#ffffff\" class=\"has-inline-color\">FINDING YOUR WAY <\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image article-in-image photo is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/99UV14V239AZO96P5FF4FO89959J-727x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18162\" width=\"259\" height=\"365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/99UV14V239AZO96P5FF4FO89959J-727x1024.jpg 727w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/99UV14V239AZO96P5FF4FO89959J-213x300.jpg 213w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/99UV14V239AZO96P5FF4FO89959J-768x1082.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/99UV14V239AZO96P5FF4FO89959J-1091x1536.jpg 1091w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/99UV14V239AZO96P5FF4FO89959J.jpg 1454w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 259px) 100vw, 259px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\"><strong>The Coleridge Way <\/strong>is marked by waymarkers with a quill logo, but this signage is occasionally hard to spot, and\/or missing at crucial points, so it makes a lot of sense to travel with the relevant OS maps \u2013 OS Explorer 140 (Quantocks) and OS Explorer OL9 (Exmoor) \u2013 and familiarise yourself with how to read them before your walk. Visit Exmoor\u2019s website also has a full, printable route guide with mapping, and directions for walking the trail eastwards as well as westwards. See <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/visit-exmoor.co.uk\">visit-exmoor.co.uk<\/a>. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\"><em><strong>The Coleridge Way Companion Guide <\/strong><\/em>by Ian Pearson, (\u00a310 plus postage) is a trail guidebook of some 155 pages, written by one of the owners of the Old Cider House B&amp;B in Nether Stowey. It includes basic route directions, although the bulk of the book recounts the author\u2019s own travels along the trail. It\u2019s unconventional, but valuable to have, and if you are feeling energetic, it also includes details of a return walking route along the England Coast Path. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/coleridgewaywalk.co.uk\">coleridgewaywalk.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<section class=\"wp-block-uagb-section uagb-section__wrap uagb-section__background-color uagb-block-58fa85ce-8bbf-43a0-8a98-f6b074ba4d85 article-boxout\"><div class=\"uagb-section__overlay\"><\/div><div class=\"uagb-section__inner-wrap\">\n<h5 class=\"has-text-align-center article-subhead has-ccp-primary-dark-background-color has-text-color has-background\" style=\"color:#ffffff\"><strong><span style=\"color:#ffffff\" class=\"has-inline-color\">NOTABLE PUBS ALONG THE ROUTE <\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>The Ancient Mariner, Nether Stowey <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/67JH8U95HNP82LNNTEU1XU6WKZV6-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18164\" width=\"256\" height=\"171\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/67JH8U95HNP82LNNTEU1XU6WKZV6-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/67JH8U95HNP82LNNTEU1XU6WKZV6-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/67JH8U95HNP82LNNTEU1XU6WKZV6-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/67JH8U95HNP82LNNTEU1XU6WKZV6-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/67JH8U95HNP82LNNTEU1XU6WKZV6.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 256px) 100vw, 256px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">This 16th-century pub, named for Coleridge\u2019s famous poem, offers cream teas and local real ales. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/marinernetherstowey.co.uk\">marinernetherstowey.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>Notley Arms Inn, Monksilver <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/4C62YHTUQ24N9ISKN81KI0VWRS9Z-1-1024x739.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18174\" width=\"256\" height=\"185\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/4C62YHTUQ24N9ISKN81KI0VWRS9Z-1-1024x739.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/4C62YHTUQ24N9ISKN81KI0VWRS9Z-1-300x216.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/4C62YHTUQ24N9ISKN81KI0VWRS9Z-1-768x554.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/4C62YHTUQ24N9ISKN81KI0VWRS9Z-1-1536x1108.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/4C62YHTUQ24N9ISKN81KI0VWRS9Z-1.jpg 1984w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 256px) 100vw, 256px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">A stylish, recently refurbished country pub with open fires and a beer garden, around 14 miles along the trail. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/notleyarmsinn.co.uk\">notleyarmsinn.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>The Rockford Inn, Brendon Valley <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5GMZ7MXKWX28693N0O35AR7MJ68F-1-1024x681.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18173\" width=\"256\" height=\"170\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5GMZ7MXKWX28693N0O35AR7MJ68F-1-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5GMZ7MXKWX28693N0O35AR7MJ68F-1-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5GMZ7MXKWX28693N0O35AR7MJ68F-1-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5GMZ7MXKWX28693N0O35AR7MJ68F-1-1536x1021.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5GMZ7MXKWX28693N0O35AR7MJ68F-1.jpg 1957w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 256px) 100vw, 256px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">A remote riverside pub close to the end of the route serving home-cooked meals using seasonal produce. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/therockfordinn.co.uk\">therockfordinn.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n<h5 class=\"has-text-align-center article-subhead has-ccp-primary-dark-background-color has-background\"><strong><span style=\"color:#ffffff\" class=\"has-inline-color\">VISIT <\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"416\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/R06IHIGHP31V228CA729S3PI2J13-1024x416.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18170\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/R06IHIGHP31V228CA729S3PI2J13-1024x416.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/R06IHIGHP31V228CA729S3PI2J13-300x122.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/R06IHIGHP31V228CA729S3PI2J13-768x312.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/R06IHIGHP31V228CA729S3PI2J13-1536x624.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/R06IHIGHP31V228CA729S3PI2J13.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>Coleridge Cottage <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">Home to Coleridge and his family from 1797, the cottage (above left) is open between late March and October, Wednesday to Saturday, 11am\u20135pm. Entry is \u00a36.50 per adult, with free entry for National Trust members. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/nationaltrust.org.uk\/coleridge-cottage\">nationaltrust.org.uk\/coleridge-cottage<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>Alfoxton House <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">The route passes Alfoxton House (above right), where William and Dorothy Wordsworth lived for a short while, and where Coleridge reputedly gave his first reading of <em>The Rime of the Ancient Mariner. <\/em>Today the house is a Buddhist centre, with various courses on offer, from meditation retreats to permaculture courses. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/alfoxtonpark.org.uk\">alfoxtonpark.org.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<h5 class=\"has-text-align-center article-subhead has-ccp-primary-dark-background-color has-background\"><strong><span style=\"color:#ffffff\" class=\"has-inline-color\"><strong>RECOMMENDED READING<\/strong><\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5P18G0GA5UF621GPW5IDNO9I5482-672x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18171\" width=\"170\" height=\"258\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5P18G0GA5UF621GPW5IDNO9I5482-672x1024.jpg 672w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5P18G0GA5UF621GPW5IDNO9I5482-197x300.jpg 197w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5P18G0GA5UF621GPW5IDNO9I5482-768x1171.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5P18G0GA5UF621GPW5IDNO9I5482-1007x1536.jpg 1007w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/5P18G0GA5UF621GPW5IDNO9I5482.jpg 1343w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 170px) 100vw, 170px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">As well as the works of Coleridge himself, there are various biographies of the poet, several of which focus on his years in the West Country. For a starting point, try <em>Coleridge: <\/em><em>Early <\/em><em>Visions <\/em>by Richard Holmes (Harper Perennial, \u00a312.99), a Whitbread Prize-winning book which focuses on the first few decades of Coleridge\u2019s life, including the fruitful period of <em>Kubla <\/em><em>Khan <\/em>and <em>The <\/em><em>Rime <\/em><em>of <\/em><em>the <\/em><em>Ancient <\/em><em>Mariner. <\/em><\/p>\n\n<h5 class=\"has-text-align-center article-subhead has-ccp-primary-dark-background-color has-background\"><strong><span style=\"color:#ffffff\" class=\"has-inline-color\"><strong><strong>TRAVEL TIPS<\/strong><\/strong><\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n<p class=\"article-full-body sans-serif\">Castle Street Car Park in Nether Stowey (post code TA5 1LW) has free parking. It\u2019s not a large car park, but it works well as somewhere to leave your vehicle. <span>To return from Lynmouth to Nether Stowey, a good option is to catch the glorious Exmoor Coaster bus back along the coast to Watchet. Tracing the area\u2019s high sea cliffs, it\u2019s surely one of the country\u2019s most scenic bus rides<\/span>.<br>From Watchet, a 20-minute taxi ride will take you back to Nether Stowey. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/firstbus.co.uk\/adventures-bus\/services\/exmoor-coaster\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"firstbus.co.uk\/adventures-bus\/services\/exmoor-coaster\">firstbus.co.uk\/adventures-bus\/services\/exmoor-coaster <\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n<h5 class=\"has-text-align-center article-subhead has-ccp-primary-dark-background-color has-background\"><strong><span style=\"color:#ffffff\" class=\"has-inline-color\"><strong><strong>STAY<\/strong><\/strong><\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>The Old Cider House B&amp;B, Nether Stowey <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/077C71161YMK96J95Y372J0QK443-1024x577.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18176\" width=\"256\" height=\"144\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/077C71161YMK96J95Y372J0QK443-1024x577.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/077C71161YMK96J95Y372J0QK443-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/077C71161YMK96J95Y372J0QK443-768x433.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/077C71161YMK96J95Y372J0QK443-1536x866.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/077C71161YMK96J95Y372J0QK443.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 256px) 100vw, 256px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">A friendly guesthouse at the trailhead. Double rooms from \u00a385 (singles from \u00a365), with breakfast. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/theoldciderhouse.co.uk\">theoldciderhouse.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>The Valiant Solider, Roadwater <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3555A72N1ATEW45Z04Y373P2K658-1024x678.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18177\" width=\"256\" height=\"170\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3555A72N1ATEW45Z04Y373P2K658-1024x678.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3555A72N1ATEW45Z04Y373P2K658-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3555A72N1ATEW45Z04Y373P2K658-768x509.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3555A72N1ATEW45Z04Y373P2K658-1536x1017.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3555A72N1ATEW45Z04Y373P2K658.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 256px) 100vw, 256px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">A straightforward but well located country pub. Double rooms from \u00a380 (singles from \u00a340), with breakfast. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/thevaliantsoldier.co.uk\">thevaliantsoldier.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>The Ship Inn, Porlock <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3KHKQ5809ZSP65WS0VK2WA7657YT-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18179\" width=\"256\" height=\"171\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3KHKQ5809ZSP65WS0VK2WA7657YT-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3KHKQ5809ZSP65WS0VK2WA7657YT-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3KHKQ5809ZSP65WS0VK2WA7657YT-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3KHKQ5809ZSP65WS0VK2WA7657YT-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/3KHKQ5809ZSP65WS0VK2WA7657YT.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 256px) 100vw, 256px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">A 13th-century traditional pub and hotel with a lively feel and good food. <span>Double rooms from \u00a380 (singles from \u00a350), with breakfast. <\/span><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/shipinnporlock.co.uk\">shipinnporlock.co.uk<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center sans-serif article-subsubhead\"><strong>The Lyn Valley Guest House, Lynmouth <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<div class=\"no-tts wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"no-tts aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/dj9jqhxgw9833.cloudfront.net\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/BVI6864O905WDGDU9ETW62N1981A-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"no-tts wp-image-18178\" width=\"256\" height=\"144\" srcset=\"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/BVI6864O905WDGDU9ETW62N1981A-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/BVI6864O905WDGDU9ETW62N1981A-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/BVI6864O905WDGDU9ETW62N1981A-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/BVI6864O905WDGDU9ETW62N1981A-1536x863.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/BVI6864O905WDGDU9ETW62N1981A.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 256px) 100vw, 256px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center article-full-body sans-serif\">This charming five-room guest house is in the heart of the village. Double rooms from \u00a390, with breakfast. <strong><a href=\"http:\/\/lynvalleyguesthouse.com\">lynvalleyguesthouse.com<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"footer\">Photos: Oliver Edwards, Alamy, NT Images, Map: Liz Pepperell\/www.illustrationx.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It\u2019s 250 years since the birth of Samuel Taylor Coleridge, the great poet and lover of nature and landscape. Ben Lerwill celebrates by exploring a spectacular hiking route named in the poet\u2019s honour, through the lovely hills of West Somerset <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":17786,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ub_ctt_via":"","purple_page_number":"18","purple_custom_meta_purple_page_number":"18","purple_seq_number":"1","purple_custom_meta_purple_seq_number":"1","purple_source_article":"article_18-1.xml","purple_custom_meta_purple_source_article":"article_18-1.xml","purple_source_issue":"August-2022","purple_custom_meta_purple_source_issue":"August-2022","purple_external_id":"August-2022-18-1","purple_custom_meta_purple_external_id":"August-2022-18-1","purple_issue_code":"|0000084059||","purple_custom_meta_purple_issue_code":"|0000084059||","purple_android_product":"com.im.countryfile.193","purple_custom_meta_purple_android_product":"com.im.countryfile.193","purple_ios_product":"com.im.countryfile.193","purple_custom_meta_purple_ios_product":"com.im.countryfile.193","purple_web_product":"","purple_custom_meta_purple_web_product":"","purple_publication_id":"91da22fd-9e7f-40d1-a93f-fc46e9516d91","purple_migrated":"","kt_blocks_editor_width":"","apple_news_api_created_at":"2022-08-04T10:53:46Z","apple_news_article-theme":"","apple_news_api_id":"b6d51f72-cacd-4089-a901-546d3b3eac7d","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2022-08-04T10:53:46Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAD\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/w==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/AttUfcsrNQImpAVRtOz6sfQ","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_is_hidden":false,"apple_news_is_paid":true,"apple_news_is_preview":true,"apple_news_is_sponsored":false,"apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_article_theme":"","apple_news_sections":"[]"},"categories":[26],"tags":[21,14],"apple_news_notices":[],"featured_image_src":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1fc26930-9711-4910-a6b3-4a6ce579e6c7.jpg","author_info":{"display_name":"importmanagerhub@sprylab.com","author_link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/author\/importmanagerhubsprylab-com\/"},"acf":{"readingTimeMinutes":"14","apple_news_title":""},"uagb_featured_image_src":{"full":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1fc26930-9711-4910-a6b3-4a6ce579e6c7.jpg",2048,1355,false],"thumbnail":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1fc26930-9711-4910-a6b3-4a6ce579e6c7-150x150.jpg",150,150,true],"medium":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1fc26930-9711-4910-a6b3-4a6ce579e6c7-300x198.jpg",300,198,true],"medium_large":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1fc26930-9711-4910-a6b3-4a6ce579e6c7-768x508.jpg",768,508,true],"large":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1fc26930-9711-4910-a6b3-4a6ce579e6c7-1024x678.jpg",800,530,true],"1536x1536":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1fc26930-9711-4910-a6b3-4a6ce579e6c7-1536x1016.jpg",1536,1016,true],"2048x2048":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/07\/1fc26930-9711-4910-a6b3-4a6ce579e6c7.jpg",2048,1355,false]},"uagb_author_info":{"display_name":"importmanagerhub@sprylab.com","author_link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/author\/importmanagerhubsprylab-com\/"},"uagb_comment_info":0,"uagb_excerpt":"It\u2019s 250 years since the birth of Samuel Taylor Coleridge, the great poet and lover of nature and landscape. Ben Lerwill celebrates by exploring a spectacular hiking route named in the poet\u2019s honour, through the lovely hills of West Somerset","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17801"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=17801"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17801\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":18997,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17801\/revisions\/18997"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/17786"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=17801"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=17801"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=17801"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}