{"id":20976,"date":"2022-11-16T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-11-15T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/?post_type=purple_issue&p=20976"},"modified":"2022-11-21T10:14:55","modified_gmt":"2022-11-21T09:14:55","slug":"county-of-dreaming-spires","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/2022\/11\/16\/county-of-dreaming-spires\/","title":{"rendered":"County of Dreaming Spires"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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From South Park on Headington Hill, gaze over the glorious spires and towers of Oxford, including Magdalen College Bell Tower, Lincoln College Library, University Church of St Mary the Virgin and the Radcliffe Camera <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

County of Dreaming Spires <\/h2>\n\n

Ancient megaliths, snow-dappled hills, snug inns, towering steeples and a vast horse carved in chalk \u2013 Oxfordshire in winter offers a landscape of fairytale charm and cheerful festivity, says Ben Lerwill <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

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Known as Kattestreet in the 13th century, Mousecatcher\u2019s Lane in 1442, Cat Street in the 18th century and Catherine\u2019s Street in the mid-19th century, Catte Street in Oxford wends past the beautiful circular architecture of the Radcliffe Camera, built between 1737 and 1749 <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

O<\/span><\/strong>xfordshire is rarely fast-paced, but it slows down further as the December solstice approaches. The meadows and hills stand quietly in the frost; country pubs glow with firelight; honey-stoned cottages seem to huddle a little closer in the chill. Winter suits it well. The county is a calm and handsome one, and even as the temperatures drop, it knows how to warm and cheer. <\/p>\n\n

At its heart, of course, is the twinkling lodestar of Oxford <\/strong>itself. To stare out from the heights of Headington Hill \u2013 where the oaks and limes of South Park have dropped their leaves and clocked off until the spring \u2013 is to see the city as a storybook illustration, its spires and pinnacles rising above the rooftops. The slender turrets of Magdalen College Bell Tower occupy centre stage, as they have done for more than 500 years. <\/p>\n\n

In the heart of town, the gaiety of the summer months is now replaced by something more timeless. Here, old winter customs still cling to the cobbles and the college quads: ancient inns and small shops dot the backstreets, music drifts from chapels, and crowds cluster in the 18thcentury Covered Market for fruits and festive gifts. A more recent tradition is the German-style Christmas Market on Broad Street, complete with carol singers, craft stalls, gingerbread and gl\u00fchwein. <\/p>\n\n

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Oxford\u2019s magnificent architecture gives the city a Christmas-card feel in winter<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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The icy River Thames wends it way beside snow-covered Christ Church Meadow. Merton College Chapel\u2019s square tower stands in the distance<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
WINTER THAMES <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Past the cloisters of Christ Church College \u2013 where the Great Hall stands in woodpanelled grandeur \u2013 and out beyond the grassland of Christ Church Meadow, the River Thames flows through the city. As the royal waterway makes its way through the ploughed fields and stark forests of the South Oxfordshire countryside, it eventually reaches the venerable old market towns of Wallingford <\/strong>and Henley-on-Thames. <\/strong>Near the former, the Cholsey & Wallingford Heritage Railway runs Polar Express-themed train services, while at the latter, the Thames Path curves scenically out of town \u2013 just the thing for a wrap-up-warm riverside ramble.<\/p>\n\n

On the subject of winter walks, Wallingford also sits close to the twin chalk hills of Wittenham Clumps. Named for the thickets of centuries-old beech trees at their summits and offering glorious views across the Thames Valley, they make the perfect location for a bracing, panoramic yomp. After snowfall, the 90-metre slopes come into their own as first-class sledge runs. Think of it as a good way of working up a thirst before a visit to the nearby Grade II-listed Plough Inn, where log fires and guest ales are waiting.<\/p>\n\n

To the north of Oxford lie the stunningly landscaped 850-hectare grounds of Blenheim Palace. Sir Randolph Churchill famously called the view here the finest in England, and when you witness a winter sunset over its rolling parkland, where lakes and trees are busied with overwintering birds such as snipe and siskins, you might well agree. The palace hosts dazzling celebrations around Christmas, with a large-scale light and illuminations display. <\/p>\n\n

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Clockwise from top left: <\/strong>The lake at Blenheim Palace is near invisible after a snowstorm, its presence marked only by the 18th-century Grand Bridge, designed by John Vanburgh; \u201cA beautiful, almost spectral presence overlooking the fields of the North Wessex Downs,\u201d writes Ben Lerwill of the ancient white horse of Uffingham, carved into the chalk of Dragon Hill; \u201cCorroded like worm-eaten wood, by the harsh Jaws of Time,\u201d wrote 18th-century antiquarian William Stukeley of the King\u2019s Men. The 4,000 year-old stone circle is part of the Rollright Stones complex<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

There\u2019s a similarly festive feel at Waddesdon Manor, just over the county border in the age-old village of Waddesdon. <\/strong>The estate puts on a glittering winter light show in its gardens and mature woodlands, while the manor itself \u2013 avast Neo-Renaissance country pile \u2013 is a spectacle in its own right, taking a starring role as the fairytale castle in a recent movie adaptation of Cinderella.<\/em><\/p>\n\n

One more stately home? Spoil yourself. Kingston Bagpuize House doesn\u2019t open its doors until late winter, but if you are here in February, it is well worth witnessing the emergence of its dainty ice-white snowdrops. The house itself is an elegant manor dating to the 1660s, and the hushed, wooded grounds add to the allure. Certain parts have been cleared to allow no fewer than 16 naturalised varieties of snowdrops to flourish. <\/p>\n\n

You will find the house in the Vale of the White Horse, a scenic spread of Christmascard countryside covering the southwest portion of Oxfordshire. The area takes its name from the extraordinary Uffington White Horse, a vast impressionistic hillside figure created more than 2,500 years ago \u2013 on a chill winter\u2019s day, its 110-metre chalk outline acts as a beautiful, almost spectral, presence overlooking the fields of the North Wessex Downs. Even better is the fact that the figure sits on the flank of the raised ancient trackway that forms the Ridgeway, giving yet more potential for a rosy-cheeked walk to remember. <\/p>\n\n

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St John the Baptist Church is a striking sight against the December snow, bare winter trees and flooded banks of the River Windrush in Burford <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
LONG SHADOWS <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

It\u2019s not the only part of the county where wintry prehistory looms large. On the fringes of the Oxfordshire Cotswolds, the Rollright Stones are an ancient complex of limestone dolmens and standing stones, built on seemingly sacred ground over more than a millennium. The wind blows cold up here, whistling around the weathered megaliths. The site\u2019s pagan connections make it a popular draw over the solstice period \u2013 it\u2019s not unusual to find offerings of holly wreaths \u2013 but there are contemplative rewards to be had from visiting the stones at any time of the Christmas season.<\/p>\n\n

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Watch red kites swooping
across clear cold skies<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

The surrounding Cotswold Hills provide some of Oxfordshire\u2019s most quintessential winter attractions. The small historical town of Burford <\/strong>\u2013 decked out in trees and fairy lights at this time of year \u2013 is a case in point. Its sloping High Street is a hark back to the wealth of the local medieval wool trade, these days complete with cosy tearooms and smart boutiques, while the town outskirts hold the upmarket Burford Garden Company, a kind of rural Harrods, where you\u2019ll find everything from poinsettias to premium bottles of Christmas port. <\/p>\n\n

Heading further into the Cotswolds, little Kingham <\/strong>has previously been dubbed \u2018England\u2019s favourite village\u2019. Expect thatched roofs, ivied walls and glimmering festive decorations, as well as two superb food pubs in the form of the Wild Rabbit and the Kingham Plough. If you\u2019re looking to work off a lengthy winter lunch, another long-distance footpath, the Oxfordshire Way, runs adjacent to the village. For a full-day winter walk that\u2019s long enough to feel substantial but flat enough not to be overly exhausting, try following the trail on its serene 10.5-mile stint to Charlbury. <\/strong>Both Kingham and Charlbury sit on the scenic Cotswold Line, which sees regular passenger trains trundling to and from Oxford. <\/p>\n\n

Remaining in the Oxfordshire Cotswolds, mention also must go to Chipping Norton, <\/strong>where the quirky theatre hosts a much-loved annual pantomime. If you fancy braving the queues, seasonal produce can be procured mere minutes away at Jeremy Clarkson\u2019s Diddly Squat Farm Shop. For its looks alone, meanwhile, the pretty hilltop village of Churchill <\/strong>merits a visit. Here, the 19th-century All Saints Church casts a lofty eye over the mellow, frosty valleys below \u2013 and, to bring us full circle, it was modelled on Oxford\u2019s Magdalen College Bell Tower. <\/p>\n\n

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The honey-hued Cotswold stone cottages of Burford create a festive scene in winter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Enjoy rustic charm and cheer in the Wild Rabbit, Kingham<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
TRADITIONAL TREASURES <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Oxfordshire might be located far from the UK\u2019s national parks and the coast, but its position roughly in the middle of the map (think of it, perhaps, as the coin inside a rich plum pudding) means it contains parts of no fewer than three Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The Cotswolds is one; another is the North Wessex Downs, home to the Uffington White Horse. The third is the lovely Chilterns, a section of which swathes the southeast of the county. <\/p>\n\n

Here you\u2019ll find the bare oak and ash woods of the high-perched Chinnor Hill Nature Reserve, open throughout December and offering a good chance to spot redwings and fieldfares, as well as red kites on the wing. Nearby is the village of Nettlebed, <\/strong>famed for its longstanding Monday night folk club \u2013 areliably atmospheric option on a midwinter\u2019s evening \u2013 while at the foot of the escarpment lies the characterful town of Watlington, <\/strong>where timber-framed houses share the streets with Chilterns-style, flint-covered buildings. If you enjoy an apposite place name, meanwhile \u2013 and who doesn\u2019t? \u2013 it\u2019s also very close to the hamlet of Christmas <\/strong>Common. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Oxfordshire can\u2019t boast the rugged contours of Cornwall or Cumbria, but what it does have, and to a spectacular degree, is variety and history. Its wide, frost-crusted farm fields give on to flowing hills and thick belts of winter woodland; its riverside walks are marked by both the crunchy-underfoot solidity of the present and by the burnished aura of the past; and its hub and heartbeat, Oxford, is still brimming with seasonal tradition. As a place to explore over the colder months, the county is often just the place to warm the soul. <\/p>\n\n

<\/div>
\n
Winter palace <\/strong><\/em><\/h5>\n\n\n\n

Helen Mark explores the parkland and green spaces of Blenheim Palace on a bright December day on Open Country, <\/em>available on BBC Sounds. bbc.co.uk\/sounds\/play\/m0012q6d<\/a> <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n

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Ben Lerwill lives in an Oxfordshire village with his family and the world\u2019s most energetic dog. <\/p>\n\n

He enjoys having Oxford close by, as a bolthole for trips into town, but is at his happiest when walking in the countryside.<\/p>\n\n

<\/div>\n\n
<\/div>
\n

OXFORD\u2019S FATHER CHRISTMAS <\/h4>\n\n\n\n
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As well as being an ardent lover of the countryside, fantasy novelist JRR Tolkien spent many decades as an Oxford don. He was also a family man. Each December from 1920 to 1943, he sent intricate, handwritten, hand-painted missives to his children, addressed from the North Pole and signed by Father Christmas. It\u2019s a joy to imagine the young Tolkiens poring over the letters, which were published in 1976 as Letters from Father Christmas, <\/em>complete with illustrations. \u201cJust off now for Oxford with my bundle of toys \u2013 some for you,\u201d reads the first letter. \u201cHope I shall arrive in time: the snow is very thick at the North Pole tonight.\u201d It\u2019s a wonderful book. <\/p>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n

NOW GO TO OXFORDSHIRE <\/h4>\n\n

Where to stay, visit, eat and drink by Ben <\/strong>Lerwill <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

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ACCOMMODATION <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n
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The Greyhound Inn, <\/strong>Letcombe Regis
Sitting in the village of Letcombe Regis, about a mile from the Ridgeway National Trail, the Greyhound Inn is a cosy country pub with eight guest rooms. It\u2019s a classy affair with seriously good food. thegreyhoundletcombe.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

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Oxford Malmaison, <\/strong>Oxford
City hotels don\u2019t come much more unusual than this smart 95-room getaway set in a former prison. Thankfully, today\u2019s comfort levels are just what you need after a day exploring Oxford\u2019s colleges and backstreets. malmaison.com\/locations\/oxford<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

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Le Manoir Aux Quat\u2019Saisons, <\/strong>Great Milton
A manor-house hotel with two Michelin stars, this much-vaunted luxury property is decidedly pricey, but it has a sparkle of its own over winter. belmond.com\/hotels\/europe\/uk\/oxfordshire\/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

FOUR GREAT COUNTRY PUBS <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n
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1 The Double Red Duke, <\/strong>Bampton
The town of Bampton has found fame in recent years as the location of numerous scenes in Downton Abbey, <\/em>and this pub offers the same mix of indulgence and old-world comforts. The food is a highlight \u2013 local produce is key \u2013 and the wine list is reassuringly hefty. countrycreatures.com\/double-red-duke<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

2 The Perch, <\/strong>Binsey
Set within wandering distance of central Oxford yet managing to feel a world away, this thatched 17th-century inn sits on the banks of the Thames. The food has a British farmhouse feel \u2013 and muddy dogs and winter walkers are always welcome. the-perch.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

3 The Chequers, <\/strong>Churchill
Flagstones, fireplaces, local beer and arty d\u00e9cor set the tone for this enjoyable gastropub. The bar snacks range from Scotch eggs to Padron peppers and the cask ales include regional favourite Hooky, brewed by nearby Hook Norton Brewery. countrycreatures.com\/the-chequers<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

4 The Swan Inn, <\/strong>Swinbrook
French former president Fran\u00e7ois Hollande was once brought here during a state visit, to give him a taste of an authentic English pub. It was a fine choice \u2013 it\u2019s set on the chuckling River Windrush and has barrel-loads of traditional character. theswanswinbrook.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

FARM SHOPS <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n
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Wykham Park Farm Shop, near Banbury <\/strong>
This is the real deal \u2013 the fruit and veg is grown on the farm, the cattle and sheep are raised here, and the cheese counter groans under the weight of more than 50 varieties. There is also a top-notch caf\u00e9 on site, called Farm & Table. wykhampark.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Bruern Farms, Bruern <\/strong>
This environmentally aware venture has a great little farm shop stocking everything from freshly baked bread to venison from Bruern Woods. bruernfarms.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Waterperry Farm Shop, Waterperry <\/strong>
The farm here is geared towards raising livestock in the most natural way possible, so you can expect the same ethos when it comes to the shop produce. It neighbours the impressive Waterperry Gardens, open year-round. waterperryfarmshop.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

<\/div>
\n
NATURE RESERVES <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n\n\n
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Chimney Meadows Nature Reserve <\/strong>
This national nature reserve lies next to the Thames, near Abingdon. Over winter, some of its meadows flood, making it a refuge for snipe, curlews and other waders. Look out, too, for lapwings and short-eared owls. bbowt.org.uk\/nature-reserves\/chimney-meadows <\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Warburg Nature Reserve <\/strong>
High on the Chiltern escarpment and open all winter for walkers and wildlife-watchers, this enjoyably wild reserve offers glimpses of goldcrests, crossbills, stoats or weasels. The nights are exceptionally cold. Don\u2019t forget your jumper. bbowt.org.uk\/nature-reserves\/warburg-nature-reserve <\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Sydlings Copse Nature Reserve <\/strong>
Sheltered in a valley just a few miles from Oxford, this reserve is small but manages to incorporate heathland, broadleaved woodland, grasslands and reedbeds. Winter visitors might be treated to tits, thrushes, roe deer and more. bbowt.org.uk\/nature-reserves\/sydlings-copse<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n

Photo: Alamy, Shutterstock, RSPB Images, Paul Wilkinson, Denis Kennedy, Kelly Hedges, Andy Fairbairn, Map: Liz Pepperell\/www.illustrationx.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ancient megaliths, snow-dappled hills, snug inns, towering steeples and a vast horse carved in chalk \u2013 Oxfordshire in winter offers a landscape of fairytale charm and cheerful festivity, says Ben Lerwill <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":21313,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ub_ctt_via":"","purple_page_number":"18","purple_custom_meta_purple_page_number":"18","purple_seq_number":"1","purple_custom_meta_purple_seq_number":"1","purple_source_article":"article_18-1.xml","purple_custom_meta_purple_source_article":"article_18-1.xml","purple_source_issue":"December-2022","purple_custom_meta_purple_source_issue":"December-2022","purple_external_id":"December-2022-18-1","purple_custom_meta_purple_external_id":"December-2022-18-1","purple_issue_code":"|0000084063||","purple_custom_meta_purple_issue_code":"|0000084063||","purple_android_product":"com.im.countryfile.197","purple_custom_meta_purple_android_product":"com.im.countryfile.197","purple_ios_product":"com.im.countryfile.197","purple_custom_meta_purple_ios_product":"com.im.countryfile.197","purple_web_product":"","purple_custom_meta_purple_web_product":"","purple_publication_id":"91da22fd-9e7f-40d1-a93f-fc46e9516d91","purple_migrated":"","kt_blocks_editor_width":"","apple_news_api_created_at":"2022-11-16T11:29:30Z","apple_news_article-theme":"","apple_news_api_id":"e7c92656-2e85-40f9-a5b3-11ce41832099","apple_news_api_modified_at":"2022-11-16T11:29:30Z","apple_news_api_revision":"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAQ==","apple_news_api_share_url":"https:\/\/apple.news\/A58kmVi6FQPmlsxHOQYMgmQ","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_is_hidden":false,"apple_news_is_paid":true,"apple_news_is_preview":true,"apple_news_is_sponsored":false,"apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"","apple_news_article_theme":"","apple_news_sections":"[]"},"categories":[26],"tags":[21,14],"apple_news_notices":[],"featured_image_src":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/11\/RFEG4P-scaled.jpg","author_info":{"display_name":"importmanagerhub@sprylab.com","author_link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/author\/importmanagerhubsprylab-com\/"},"acf":{"readingTimeMinutes":"13","apple_news_title":""},"uagb_featured_image_src":{"full":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/11\/RFEG4P-scaled.jpg",2560,1777,false],"thumbnail":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/11\/RFEG4P-150x150.jpg",150,150,true],"medium":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/11\/RFEG4P-300x208.jpg",300,208,true],"medium_large":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/11\/RFEG4P-768x533.jpg",768,533,true],"large":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/11\/RFEG4P-1024x711.jpg",800,555,true],"1536x1536":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/11\/RFEG4P-1536x1066.jpg",1536,1066,true],"2048x2048":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/45\/2022\/11\/RFEG4P-2048x1422.jpg",2048,1422,true]},"uagb_author_info":{"display_name":"importmanagerhub@sprylab.com","author_link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/author\/importmanagerhubsprylab-com\/"},"uagb_comment_info":0,"uagb_excerpt":"Ancient megaliths, snow-dappled hills, snug inns, towering steeples and a vast horse carved in chalk \u2013 Oxfordshire in winter offers a landscape of fairytale charm and cheerful festivity, says Ben Lerwill","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20976"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=20976"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20976\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":21566,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20976\/revisions\/21566"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/21313"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=20976"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=20976"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=20976"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}