{"id":28272,"date":"2023-06-28T10:21:00","date_gmt":"2023-06-28T08:21:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/?post_type=purple_issue&p=28272"},"modified":"2023-06-28T10:21:00","modified_gmt":"2023-06-28T08:21:00","slug":"cumbrias-precious-coast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbccountryfile\/2023\/06\/28\/cumbrias-precious-coast\/","title":{"rendered":"Cumbria\u2019s precious coast"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Author Julie Bromincks gazes over the Irish Sea from Silecroft Beach, searching for sea birds through her binoculars, with Walney Wind Farm silhouetted in the distance <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Cumbria\u2019s precious coast<\/h2>\n\n

Travellers flock to Cumbria\u2019s fells and lakes, but few visit its rugged coastline. That may be about to change with the opening of a dramatic new stretch of coast path, writes Julie Brominicks<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n\n

Photos: Dave Willis<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

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Julie makes her way along the coast path from Haverigg towards Silecroft, through the wild and unruly coastal landscape <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

T<\/span>he Lakes? Who\u2019d want to go there?\u201d The first coast-path users I meet are local \u2013 as will all the others be, save for hikers leaving St Bees on the Coast to Coast Path bound for Robin Hood\u2019s Bay in North Yorkshire. I have pointed out how quiet the Cumbrian coast is compared to the Lake District National Park, just a short way inland. \u201cThey\u2019ll be crawling over each other like ants there today,\u201d my new friend from Millom snorts. \u201cAnd it will cost them a \u2018harm and a leg to park.\u201d <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

His companion pokes him cheerfully with a walking stick before adding, with a sweeping gesture that takes in the Duddon Estuary: \u201cYou don\u2019t need a car here. It\u2019s grand! And it\u2019s all free.\u201d I look at the sparkling sea, the bird\u2019s foot trefoil gilding the derelict iron-ore quarry (now a nature reserve), and heartily concur. <\/p>\n\n

I am walking the coast between Millom and Whitehaven. Offshore is Walney Wind Farm and the Isle of Man, while inland the Western Fells of the Lake District press close then collapse into sheep and dairy pasture, hedged lanes and maritime grassland that sprawls to the shore. Yet the coast is largely ignored by the multitudes who frequent the Lakes. A few come to Ravenglass, the only settlement in the National Park that is also on the coast, to St Bees for the Coast to Coast Path, or to the beach at Seascale, a former Victorian resort. The rest are presumably deterred <\/span>by mountains, rural roads (unaware of the excellent coastal railway network), weaponstesting ranges, industries and particularly by Sellafield Nuclear Power Station.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

\"\"
Walking the wet sands of Silecroft beach towards Black Combe, an isolated Lake District fell that stands 600m tall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
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At the mouth of the Duddon Estuary, Hodbarrow Nature Reserve is a coastal lagoon and grassland with views to the Lake District peaks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Nuclear activity is scaling back these days, while the iron-ore quarry at Millom and Whitehaven colliery have closed. Despite all this activity, the coastal margin includes key habitats for terns, natterjack toads, orchids, adders and auks. Fishermen are out now, digging for worms in channels left by the ebbing tide. <\/p>\n\n

VISITOR VALUE <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

I raise the subject of tourism with Jade Hughes at Millom Heritage and Arts Museum. \u201cYou speak to some people and they don\u2019t want tourists, but we need jobs now the mines are shut,\u201d she says. \u201cIt\u2019s about getting the balance right. We don\u2019t want it like Windermere kind of thing, where you can\u2019t afford to buy homes. But we want people to see what we\u2019re doing here, what we\u2019ve got.\u201d <\/p>\n\n

\u201cThe coast is largely ignored by the multitudes who frequent the Lake District\u201d <\/strong><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n

Balancing walkers and wildlife is also important. Dogs need to be on leads in sensitive sites, for example, so as not to stir up silt in pools where natterjack toads breed. The next morning, I find Rachelle Regan counting terns in RSPB Hodbarrow hide. It\u2019s an exciting place, with sandwich, common and little terns zooming to the shingle island with sand eels in their beaks. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s good for people to come and see this,\u201d Rachelle says carefully. \u201cAs long as the birds aren\u2019t put under stress.\u201d <\/p>\n\n

Caution is justified. The island, lying in a lagoon that formed in the disused quarry, was extended in 2020 and enclosed by a fence, because terns nesting on the shore were suffering from disturbance by foxes, rats, people and dogs. Now tern numbers have significantly increased. \u201cThe little terns nest near the high-tide mark,\u201d says Rachelle. Her telescope reveals ringed plover, an oystercatcher and suddenly, yes \u2013 two fuzzy yellow chicks, rising above the pebbles to greet the parent bird.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

\n
\n
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Look out for rare natterjack toads around shallow freshwater pools in the sand dunes <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
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Nesting in saltmarsh, the fluffy yellow chick of the little tern is camouflaged against its surroundings<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n

Behind me now are Haverigg dunes, a wind farm and a low-security prison. But tonight, having climbed Black Combe to see the bright coast from above, the views from The Wayside guest house and Whisky Barn at its foot are green and agricultural. Tranquillity radiates from the fabric of the building itself. Dan chats while Emiko cooks. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cWe\u2019re techy people\u201d he says. \u201cWe met working on software solutions in Hong Kong. We hope the coast path will bring people here \u2013 we need safer cycling routes next. We don\u2019t want the traffic they have got in the Lakes, people can come without cars. But this area needs something, with the farms employing fewer people. Tourism is better than being a nuclear waste dump.\u201d Dan is unhappy that the coast is being considered as a site for a Geological Disposal Facility for radioactive waste. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cLong shingle beaches are empty but for ringed plovers, curlews and oystercatchers\u201d <\/strong><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

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The village of Ravenglass lies on the estuary of three rivers \u2013 the Mite, the Esk and the Irt <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

Arriving at Ravenglass via long shingle beaches, empty but for ringed plovers, curlews, oystercatchers, and the sand martins whooshing in and out of their burrows in eroding cliffs, I am feeling dreamy. The ice-cream parlour, despite the day\u2019s warmth, is cool inside. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s the old butcher\u2019s, so the walls are thick,\u201d Sam Bowden tells me, serving scoops of sea-buckthorn ripple. \u201cWe get our milk from Andy\u2019s farm less than a mile away.\u201d <\/p>\n\n

At the confluence of the Esk, the Mite, and the Irt, Ravenglass is dominated by estuary, whose flux I find thrilling. An unusually high tide swills around the coast path sign. But later, at low tide, I step barefoot on to the mud, and hear it popping. The flats are pocked by wormcasts and spiked with samphire. Periwinkles graze shallow pools. There\u2019s a splash as a herring gull scoops up a crab, tosses it about, then leaves it on the sand. <\/p>\n\n

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Julie picks dune flowers as the sea laps the sands at Sellafield <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
NUCLEAR COMMUNITY <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

My hatred of nuclear power, nuclear weapons and nuclear waste does not extend to the people who work in the industry, or live in its shadow. Aesthetically, I appreciate a gritty landscape. But Seascale feels more like a retirement village than the industrial hub I had expected. Michaelmas daisies run riot, there\u2019s action on the bowling green, and a policeman comes out of the Co-op with a jar of pasta sauce. Gentlemen with coiffured silver hair seem pleased and surprised to see me. I ask one with a comb in his pocket if he has walked the coast path. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cNot really,\u201d he says. \u201cBut I used to work at Sellafield so I cycled every day up the cinder track. You\u2019ll cross some slabs I laid 25 years ago. I like to think mine are the ones which don\u2019t wobble.\u201d None do. <\/p>\n\n

The coast path lies seaward of Sellafield, where sprawls of dune flowers are intoxicating. Passing the perimeter fence, I find the plethora of danger signs, trucks and chimneys fascinating. Four men in blue uniforms wave. The path seems to shimmer. But also there\u2019s vetch, ragwort, sea spurge, burnet rose, bloody cranesbill, Japanese rose, kidney vetch, honeysuckle, bedstraw, columbine, and sea holly growing nearby \u2013 I lose count. Sea rocket. Scabious. Angelica.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

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the coastal village of Seascale

<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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A northern marsh orchid at Hodbarrow Nature Reserve

<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

Union Jacks, Jolly Rogers and Cumbrian flags flap above Braystones\u2019 beach houses, but the weather is changing. The waves are bigger. The shingle sounds louder, the curlews mournful. Cloud dissolves the peaks and the Isle of Man disappears. I feel completely at home, Cymru (Wales) being not so different. As the path undulates approaching St Bees, sheep become blurs on a smudged horizon and rain washes my face. <\/p>\n\n

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Named after Bega, a 7th-century Irish nun who was shipwrecked here, the coastal village of St Bees sits above its mile-long sandy beach<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n
MUD LIFE <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Georgia de Jong Cleyndert, from Cumbria Wildlife Trust, wisely opts to meet me in St Bees Beach Caf\u00e9 instead of on the path, to tell me about the Marine Conservation Zone that shares this coastal strip. We gaze through steamy windows at brown waves smashing the red sandstone cliffs. Georgia tucks her long hair behind an ear and paints a vivid picture of life beneath those cliffs \u2013 boulder communities, crabs and nudibranchs, starfish and anemones. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cThere\u2019s often a misconception about the Irish Sea \u2013 that it\u2019s just dirty and lifeless and muddy. But mud is so important! It sustains invertebrates which get eaten by fish, that support breeding birds and porpoises.\u201d Her enthusiasm is palpable.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

\u201cWe want people to get out there exploring rockpools. As long as they put the rocks back carefully and don\u2019t tread on the honeycomb reefs or take anything off the beach.\u201d \u201cNot even shells?\u201d I say guiltily and she looks uncomfortable. \u201cIt\u2019s about getting the balance right,\u201d she says.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

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Julie climbs over slabs of red sandstone at St Bees Beach<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Under St Bee\u2019s Head, guillemots and razorbills rise and fall on the swell, waiting out the tide. The wild and human coastal communities are delicate, but rich. Walkers are well catered for with trains, and accommodation and tea when it\u2019s needed, but there is room, it seems, for more sensitive, locally driven tourism \u2013 avoiding the Lakes\u2019 mistakes. <\/p>\n\n

My journey ends in spirited Whitehaven, where at sunset I walk around the intriguing matrix of harbour walls. The fishermen are out, and a few kids, too, amid a sprawl of rods and bikes. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cWe got some fish!\u201d beams one with a cap. \u201cA skate. A plaice. Two catsharks and a whiting, but \u2019ee don\u2019t count. We put \u2018em all back because we don\u2019t want to hurt \u2018em.\u201d There\u2019s a kind of balance in that.<\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

\n\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n

Julie Brominicks <\/strong>is a landscape writer and author who lives in Cymru (Wales). She specialises in wild places, local exploration and sustainable travel. Her book The Edge of Cymru: A Journey <\/em>is published by Seren.



<\/p>\n\n

<\/div>
\n

CUMBRIA\u2019S NEW COAST PATHS <\/h4>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cumbria\u2019s coast path will eventually form part of the England Coast Path, which, when complete, will be a National Trail 2,700 miles (4,345 km) long. nationaltrail.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Which Cumbria sections are open? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The stretch between Allonby and Whitehaven, completed in 2014, was joined in 2020 by the section circumnavigating Walney Island. Julie walked the most recently created parts \u2013 the 2022 Green Road Station to Silecroft section, linking to the 2021 Silecroft to Whitehaven section, totalling 43.2 miles (69.5 km). Although complete, gaps remain over the River Esk and the River Irt, which walkers are advised to circumnavigate using existing trails (or trains), until hoped-for bridges can be financed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What remains to be done? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Works on the remaining sections between Allonby and Gretna in the north, and Green Road and Silverdale in the south, are in progress with an aim for completion by the end of the current parliament in 2024. <\/p>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

NOW GO TO THE CUMBRIAN COAST<\/h3>\n\n

Where to stay, eat and explore on the Cumbrian coast, by Julie Brominicks<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

STAY <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n

Wayside and Whisky, <\/strong>Whitbeck
This sublimely peaceful B&B in a gorgeously restored barn has views of Black Combe. Emiko\u2019s superb hospitality includes excellent cooking; even the baked beans are homemade. 01229 718 883, thewayside.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Harbour Lights, <\/strong>Haverigg
Between holiday parks, this convivial campsite (with pods) is also home to Paige\u2019s Riva Gelato ice cream, made on site. Ideally placed for Hodbarrow RSPB Reserve. 01229 777 300, harbourlightscampsite.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

Seacote, <\/strong>St Bees
Hotel and campsite accommoation. The static caravans (above) are perfectly placed for the coast path.
01946 822 777, seacote.com<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Self-catering accommodation in a great location \u2013 guests have access to roam the gardens by evening, or stroll by the river. 01229 717 614, muncaster.co.uk\/coachmansquarters<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Cumbrian Lodge, <\/strong>Seascale
A friendly B&B with great home cooking by Paul and Angela \u2013 book in advance if you\u2019d like an evening meal. 01946 727 309, cumbrian-lodge.co.uk <\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

EAT <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n

Estuary View Gallery and Tearoom, Ravenglass <\/strong>
Conjuring up fresh cakes, peppery soups and delectable cheese scones, this coast-facing caf\u00e9 is set under Rosegarth guesthouse. 01229 717 754, estuaryviewstearoom.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Tarn Bay Treats <\/strong>
The tiny hut \u2013 furnished with coffee machine, ice-cream freezer and homemade cakes (don\u2019t miss Aunty Jen\u2019s knitted hats) \u2013 was a community lockdown project that is now irresistible to walkers. Pay by honesty box. facebook.com\/tarnbaytreats<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

RAINY DAYS OUT <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

Muncaster Castle <\/strong>
Lively, with gardens, woodlands, falconry displays and a well-conceived eco-discovery centre. Even the castle is animated by archivists and upholsterers at work. 01229 717 614, muncaster.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway <\/strong>
This polished narrow-gauge steam train once carried quarried stone, belying its tougher industrial past. Enjoy seven miles of stunning scenery, a caf\u00e9 and museum. 01229 717 171, ravenglass-railway.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

HERITAGE <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

Millom Heritage and Arts Centre <\/strong>
Themed rooms, from prehistory to poetry, contain expertly interpreted local exhibits such as \u2018witch bottles\u2019 and a medieval hand-sanitiser. Free entry, locally loved, this museum has bags of soul. 01229 772 555, millomhac.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

The Beacon, Whitehaven <\/strong>
For a larger, techier experience of local history, artefacts here are mixed with cyber displays; I watched a boy teach his grandad how to build a digital schooner. 01946 592 302, thebeacon-whitehaven.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

DRINK <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n

The Ratty Arms, Ravenglass <\/strong>
This down-to-earth railway pub on the Ravenglass platform of the Cumbrian Coast Line has avoided gentrification. Enjoy a great pint of Loweswater Gold. 01229 717 676, ravenglass-railway.co.uk\/the-ratty-arms<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

The Manor, St Bees <\/strong>
With real ales and cheerful service, The Manor is accustomed to catering for thirsty walkers, located as it is at one end of Wainwright\u2019s Coast to Coast Path. 01947 820 587, themanor-stbees.co.uk<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

THREE SHORT WALKS <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n

Millom Circular (5 miles) <\/strong>
Boasting estuary views, orchids and terns, this walk is accessible for robust wheelchairs. Take the coast path from Millom, pass Haverigg lighthouse and turn right through Port Haverigg holiday village, returning to the path along the lagoon wall. <\/p>\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

Black Combe (8.8 miles) <\/strong>
At 600m, it\u2019s almost a mountain \u2013 visibility can be poor and the drop treacherous. From Whicham (near Silecroft station) climb to the trig point for epic views of the coast, then bear northwest before descending. Return to Whicham via Whitbeck. <\/p>\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

St Bees to Whitehaven (6.5 miles) <\/strong>
Walk from St Bees Head via Fleswick Bay\u2019s sea caves and auk colonies nesting on sandstone cliffs. Wildflowers around the disused colliery welcome you to Whitehaven and its large, historic harbour. Return via the Cumbrian Coast Line. <\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

Photos: Dave Willis, Alamy, Jordan Gibbons\/Pannier, Getty; map: Liz Pepperell\/www.illustrationx.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Travellers flock to Cumbria\u2019s fells and lakes, but few visit its rugged coastline. 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