Shetland is a place of extremes. People come for the remoteness, to be at the end of Britain. Once here, though, the world tilts on its axis and you start seeing everywhere else as far away from what is, after all, \u201cthe hilt of the sword\u201d.<\/p>\n
Discover everything you need to know about these far-flung islands with our beginner\u2019s guide to Shetland, including how to get there, places to visit, where to stay and eat, and island wildlife.<\/p>\n
![\""Rock\"](\""https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/22\/2022\/01\/Foula-Island-Shetland-e5673b0.jpg?quality=90&resize=620%2C393"\" "\\"\"Gada's\\"")
<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>Where are the Shetland Islands?<\/h2>\n
Shetland is located\u00a0around 110 miles north of the Scottish mainland. You are well on the way to the Faroe Islands, Iceland and Norway \u2013 the Shetland capital Lerwick is further north than Oslo \u2013 and the Scandinavian influence here is strong.<\/p>\n You may also like:<\/p>\n <\/p><\/div> <\/section> Loganair<\/a> flies direct to Shetland from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen and Orkney.<\/p>\n There are nightly NorthLink Ferries<\/a> sailings from Aberdeen (twice a week via Orkney) to Lerwick, taking 12 to 14 hours. Cabins and sleeping pods are available.<\/p>\n What you are looking for is a calm, clear summer\u2019s night, and preferably one of the 14-hour overnight sailings from Aberdeen via Orkney. Then, if you\u2019re lucky, the ferry trip to Shetland will be a mini-cruise, including dolphins, orcas, a sighting of the Orcadian sea-stack called the Old Man of Hoy and a sailing into the \u2018simmer dim\u2019 \u2013 Shetland dialect for the midnight sun of midsummer, when twilight lingers through the short night.<\/p>\n The morning arrival in Lerwick never fails to touch the soul. True, sometimes a delayed, rough trip cannoning into a big north-easterly can bring a more physical relief when you finally step on to dry\u00a0land, but watching the morning sun glitter off fishing boats as they hustle for landing space fairly warms the heart.<\/p>\n Shetland has a population of 23,000 people, half of whom live in and around Lerwick, which is on the biggest island, known as Mainland.<\/p>\n The BBC TV crime drama Shetland<\/em><\/a> has been a worldwide smash hit and attracted thousands of tourists to the isles. No visit to Lerwick is complete without viewing \u2018Jimmy Perez\u2019s House\u2019: the wonderful Lodberry in Lerwick, now complete with an embedded \u2018Hollywood\u2019 star for actor Douglas Henshall.<\/p>\n In general the show is regarded with great affection, but occasional shrugs of mystification: why on Earth did they have to film that bit in Greenock? Why does the only native Shetland actor portray a bumbling buffoon? And most of all, that playing fast and loose with geography: you can\u2019t walk across the St Ninian\u2019s Isle tombolo and end up in Nesting!<\/p>\n But the cast and crew have made themselves very popular, their presence has brought financial benefit to the isles, and they\u2019ve been sensitive to local concerns, on the whole. Except, no, you definitely cannot see Norway from Lerwick!<\/p>\n The name itself comes from Viking days: the Old Norse \u2018Hjaltland\u2019 is generally thought to mean \u2018the hilt of a sword\u2019. The Vikings displaced most of the native Picts in AD900, and Shetland only became part of Scotland in the 15th century. Up Helly Aa, an annual series of fire festivals marking the start of winter\u2019s slippage into spring, celebrates the Viking heritage with galley-burning and committed partying into the night and beyond dawn.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n On Shetland\u2019s shores, the birds are glorious in their variety and occasionally scary. Bonxies (great skuas) will attack if they think you are a threat. The autumn rarities that come fluttering, such as ruffs, little stints and curlew sandpipers bring groups of enthusiastic birdwatchers, and occasionally the kind of mass twitch that sees chartered planeloads of birders arrive, all camouflaged lenses and Gore-Tex.<\/p>\n And then there are the sea mammals. Seals, porpoises, dolphins and whales<\/a> bring with them a sense of wonder at nature\u2019s sheer power.<\/p>\n 4 miles; 2 hours<\/em><\/p>\n From Victoria Pier in Lerwick, head along the least-modernised part of Commercial Street with its lodberries (stone stores built into the sea). Follow the coast to the cemetery, then up to Knab promontory for incredible views. Stay on the coast to Tesco; cross the road to the preserved Clickimin Pictish Broch. Walk on the main road back to start.<\/p>\n 4\u20136 miles; 2\u20133 hours<\/em><\/p>\n Easily accessible by car \u2013 park at Eshaness Lighthouse \u2013 this is a classic walk<\/a> that is safe\u00a0and easy if the weather is good and you stay\u00a0away from cliff edges. The scenery is spectacular \u2013 walk north along the coast to the Grind,\u00a0a natural amphitheatre.<\/p>\n When you have finished wandering the wild shores and hills of Shetland, there is plenty more to see and do. For such a small population, the arts scene and other facilities are impressive. The arrival of oil in the 1970s brought wealth both individually and collectively. There are eight modern leisure centres with swimming pools if\u00a0you fancy a dip indoors, and there are award-winning museums\u00a0plus a state-of-the-art cinema and performance complex called Mareel in Lerwick. But it\u2019s sometimes the almost complete absence of potholes on the roads that impresses visitors most.<\/p>\n Here are a few ideas to get you started:<\/p>\n From Calder\u2019s Geo, look down and you can see the entrance to Britain\u2019s biggest sea cave, thought to be some 20 metres tall and covering 5,600 square metres. Few have ever been inside, as the sea conditions make access only possible for the intrepid.<\/p>\n Just along from Mareel, the boat hall and outdoor seafaring exhibits at Shetland Museum & Archives<\/a> are wonderful. There\u2019s a very good shop and caf\u00e9, too.<\/p>\n In a former mill, Bonhoga<\/a> has permanent and touring exhibitions of both local and international work, with a pleasant caf\u00e9.<\/p>\n Hoswick Visitor Centre<\/a> is a really interesting community-run craft and cultural centre. Yet another wonderful caf\u00e9.<\/p>\n Wherever you go, the sea is nearly always within sight and sound. The most poignant memorial to its role in Shetland life \u2013 its power to bereave and enrich \u2013 is perhaps found at Fethaland, a long walk in from the road-end at North Roe, in the north of Mainland. This was once Shetland\u2019s busiest haaf (deep-sea) fishing station, from where men would spend entire springs and summers heading up to 40 miles out to sea in open boats to fish. Now the tiny stone booths they lived in are deserted, but an outcrop of soapstone (steatite) bears some of those fishermen\u2019s initials, and the dates they spent here. There\u2019s one from 1866, sharp and clear as the knife that carved it.<\/p>\n Shetland Textile Museum Lerwick<\/a> is located in the B\u00f6d of Gremista. An old fishing booth, some of the classic Fair Isle designs are gathered here.<\/p>\n Explore the history and natural heritage of Sumburgh Head<\/a> from Iron Age settlers to today. And, of course, the lighthouse itself. Shetland\u2019s only German caf\u00e9 is here.<\/p>\n Near Sumburgh Airport are the remarkable ruins of Jarlshof<\/a>, a settlement that was occupied for almost 4,000 years, since around 2700 BC through Norse times.<\/p>\n Mousa<\/a> is the best preserved Pictish broch (roundhouse) in Europe; regular ferries go to the island.<\/p>\n A wonderfully spooky ruin, once the centre of power in Shetland. The community-run Scalloway Museum<\/a> is next door.<\/p>\n The island of Unst has more archaeological sites per square mile than almost anywhere else in Britain, and yet its remoteness makes it less visited. Start with the restored Viking longhouse and the longship Skipbladner.<\/p>\n Clickimin\u00a0is easy to find in Lerwick, and there are ruined broch sites throughout the isles.<\/p>\n You can stay in the former keeper\u2019s quarters at several of Shetland\u2019s lighthouses \u2013 Bressay and Eshaness especially \u2013 but Sumburgh Head<\/a> really is the last word. Self-catering for five people in three luxurious bedrooms. Cosy, grand and quite awesomely positioned. From \u00a396 for one night.<\/p>\n Busta House Hotel<\/a> comes with its very own ghost (a grey lady, one of many in Scotland). This 16th-century (much extended) mansion is quirky, luxurious and comes with its own lovely gardens and harbour. Great food and one of the best collections of single malt whisky in the isles. From \u00a3115 for\u00a0a double room.<\/p>\n A self-catering cottage like nowhere else in Shetland, Westshore<\/a> is cutting-edge architecture married to the walls of an ancient crofthouse. Stunning outside and in, there are views across Vaila Sound. From \u00a3500 for five nights.<\/p>\n The Peerie Shop Cafe<\/a> has great daytime coffee, home-made scones, cakes and spectacular soups and sandwiches. A real institution and one you\u2019ll want to linger in.<\/p>\n Winner of several national awards, Frankie\u2019s<\/a>\u00a0fish comes\u00a0from a single boat and the menu includes mussels, scallops and a host of other offshore goodies. Takeaway, or there\u2019s an outdoor terrace and you can reserve an indoor table in advance. Not licensed.<\/p>\n St Magnus Bay Hotel<\/a> is a place of generous hospitality, a warm welcome and huge portions. The Sunday lunchtime carvery is legendary. Afternoon tea is also a wonder to behold.<\/p>\n The Dowry<\/a>\u00a0is a great modern caf\u00e9 bar with \u2018small plates\u2019 of local\u00a0food in the evenings. Splendid for coffee but a good selection of beers and wines, too.<\/p>\n Head up the stairs to the Lounge\u2019s lounge. Wednesday evenings are the best for sessions by or with local musicians. The downstairs public bar is more \u2013 how can I put this? \u2013 uncompromising.<\/p>\n I could mention the great local dishes \u2013 reestit mutton soup, bannocks, cod cheeks, herring in oatmeal \u2013 but I\u2019ll just say that, in summer, the best of Shetland food is to be found at the Sunday community-hall teas. Fancies (homebakes), pies, that aforementioned soup, bannocks of all sizes, and often crafts on sale, too. Look for adverts in The Shetland Times, online at shetnews.co.uk<\/a> or on noticeboards. shetlandtimes.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n You may also like:<\/p>\n <\/p><\/div> <\/section> Fishing and fish-farming still provide good work for Shetlanders; as do oil and gas, so there is little unemployment. Farming, in the Highland form of smallholding called crofting, is a major activity \u2013 though usually combined with some other form of work.<\/p>\n Look out for the native Shetland sheep: it is small, hardy and produces, from its belly, a wool so fine that\u00a0it can be worn next to the skin. The first successful Everest expedition was equipped with Shetland wool gansies (jumpers) and you can still buy an Everest sweater today.\u00a0<\/span>Shetland sheep are also renowned for the taste and quality of their meat; the lamb or mutton from the animals that feed on shoreline seaweed is a taste never to be equalled or forgotten.<\/p>\nHow do you get to the Shetland Islands?<\/h2>\n
How to get to Shetland by air<\/h3>\n
How to get to Shetland by sea<\/h3>\n
![\""Village\"](\""https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/22\/2022\/01\/Lerwick-Shetland-ea6bc78.jpg?quality=90&resize=620%2C413"\" "\\"\"Lodberrie,\\"")
<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>What is the population of the Shetland Islands?<\/h2>\n
Shetland, the TV series<\/h2>\n
![\""Actor\"](\""https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/22\/2022\/01\/Shetland-TV-series-727f215.jpg?quality=90&resize=619%2C413"\" "\\"\"Douglas\\"")
<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>History and heritage of Shetland<\/h2>\n
Shetland wildlife<\/h2>\n
![\""Orca\"](\""https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/22\/2018\/09\/Orca_GettyImages_1-8e0fc26.jpg?quality=90&resize=620%2C413"\" "\\"\"Orca\"\\"\/")
<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>Walking in Shetland<\/h2>\n
Lerwick waterfront and\u00a0Clickimin Broch<\/h3>\n
Eshaness and Grind o\u2019 da Navir<\/h3>\n
![\""Cliffs\"](\""https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/22\/2022\/01\/Eshaness-and-Grind-o-da-Navir-68477fc.jpg?quality=90&resize=620%2C413"\" "\\"\"Grind\\"")
<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>Places to visit in\u00a0Shetland<\/h2>\n
Calder\u2019s Geo<\/h3>\n
![\""Cliffs\"](\""https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/22\/2022\/01\/Calders-Geo-Shetland-8a0e9b1.png?quality=90&resize=620%2C412"\" "\\"\"Calder\u2019s\\"")
<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>The Shetland Museum and Archives Hay\u2019s Dock<\/h3>\n
Bonhoga Gallery Weisdale<\/h3>\n
Hoswick Visitor Centre<\/h3>\n
Fethaland<\/h3>\n
![\""Sandy\"](\""https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/22\/2022\/01\/Fethaland-Shetland-4901103.jpg?quality=90&resize=620%2C413"\" "\\"\"Fethaland,\\"")
<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>Shetland Textile Museum Lerwick<\/h3>\n
Sumburgh Head Lighthouse<\/h3>\n
Jarlshof Prehistoric Settlement<\/h3>\n
The brochs\u00a0<\/span><\/h3>\n
Scalloway Castle, Mainland\u00a0<\/span><\/h3>\n
![\""Harbour\"](\""https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/22\/2022\/01\/Scalloway-Castle-Mainland-7336f35.jpg?quality=90&resize=620%2C399"\" "\\"\"Scalloway\\"")
<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>Unst<\/h3>\n
Clickimin\u00a0<\/span><\/h3>\n
Best places to stay<\/h2>\n
Sumburgh Head Lighthouse<\/h3>\n
Busta House Hotel, Brae<\/h3>\n
Westshore, Mainland<\/h3>\n
Best places to eat and drink<\/h2>\n
The Peerie Shop Caf\u00e9, Lerwick<\/h3>\n
Frankie\u2019s Fish and Chips, Brae<\/h3>\n
St Magnus Bay Hotel, Hillswick<\/h3>\n
The Dowry, Lerwick<\/h3>\n
The Lounge Bar, Lerwick<\/h3>\n
Tradition Shetland food<\/h2>\n
Shetland economy<\/h2>\n