{"id":34481,"date":"2024-03-30T14:52:51","date_gmt":"2024-03-30T12:52:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.historyextra.com\/?p=264274"},"modified":"2024-03-31T09:12:48","modified_gmt":"2024-03-31T07:12:48","slug":"scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite","status":"publish","type":"rss_feed","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/rss_feed\/scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite\/","title":{"rendered":"Scandalous portraits and subversive fashion: John Singer Sargent and the Edwardian elite"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"rssexcerpt\"> As an exhibition at Tate Britain explores the bold portraits of John Singer Sargent (1856\u20131925), Anna Maria Barry takes a look at what the work of this celebrated society artist can tell us about the gilded world of the Edwardian elite <\/p><p class=\"rssauthor\">By Rachel Dinning\n                \t\t<\/p><p class=\"rssbyline\">Published: Saturday, 30 March 2024 at 12:52 PM<\/p><hr class=\"no-tts wp-block-separator\"\/><?xml version=\"1.0\" encoding=\"UTF-8\" standalone=\"yes\"?>\n<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC \"-\/\/W3C\/\/DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional\/\/EN\" \"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/TR\/REC-html40\/loose.dtd\">\n<html><body> <p style=\"font-weight: 400\">John Singer Sargent was the most in-demand portrait artist of his generation, though his career was not without controversy. Building his career with daring portraits of Edwardian socialites, he would later make waves for his art depicting the harrowing realities of the First World War, while his avant garde personal life remains a source of fascination.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born to American parents in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.historyextra.com\/membership\/florence-history\/\">Florence<\/a> in 1856, the young Sargent spent his early years travelling around Europe with his family. He showed a precocious aptitude for art, sketching and painting the many cities and landscapes they visited \u2013 from Paris to the Pyrenees.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Read more | <a href=\"https:\/\/www.historyextra.com\/membership\/beginners-guide-art-history-basics-visual-analysis-artist-viewer\/\">A beginner\u2019s guide to art history<\/a><\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 1870 Sargent started to attend drawing classes in Florence. He moved to Paris in 1874 where he entered the studio of French painter Carolus-Duran. Over the next ten years, Sargent travelled and worked, gradually building his reputation as an artist.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"font-weight: 400\">Scandal, success and Madame X<strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 1884, scandal hit when Sargent exhibited his famous <em>Portrait of Madame X <\/em>at the Paris Salon. The sitter was Virginie Am\u00e9lie Gautreau, a well-known Parisian socialite with a salacious private life. A good friend of Sargent\u2019s, the statuesque Gautreau was a striking beauty \u2013 she accentuated her pale complexion with lavender powder, and dyed her hair red with henna.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sargent\u2019s daring full-length portrait captures Gautreau turning coquettishly away from the artist, so that her face is shown in profile. Her pale skin contrasts with the shimmering black dress accentuating her narrow waist and ample cleavage. While her pose was interpreted as sexually suggestive, what caused most comment was a single strap of her dress which Sargent captured slipping down over her shoulder. Gautreau appeared a mere wiggle away from exposing herself to the viewer.<\/p>\n<div class=\"image-handler__container image-handler__container--full\" style=\"height: 1024px; max-height: calc((100vw - 30px) * (1024 \/ 524));\"> <picture> <source media=\"(max-width: 320px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=300%2C586\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 320px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=300%2C586\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 375px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=355%2C694\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 375px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=355%2C694\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 425px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=405%2C791\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 425px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=405%2C791\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 589px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=524%2C1024\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 589px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=524%2C1024\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 992px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=524%2C1024\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 992px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=524%2C1024\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=408%2C797\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=408%2C797\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 590px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=524%2C1024\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 590px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=524%2C1024\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <img class=\"wp-image-264277 align size-full image-handler__image image-handler__image--full no-wrap js-lazyload\" srcset=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-544268210-ee19dfa.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=524%2C1024\" width=\"524\" height=\"1024\" alt=\"Portrait of Madame X by John Singer Sargent. (Photo by VCG Wilson\/Corbis via Getty Images)\" title=\"Portrait of Madame X by John Singer Sargent. (Photo by VCG Wilson\/Corbis via Getty Images)\"\/>\n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><div class=\"caption-hold\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-copy\"><i class=\"icon-arrow icon-camera-circle\"\/> \u2018Portrait of Madame X\u2019 by John Singer Sargent. (Photo by VCG Wilson\/Corbis via Getty Images)<\/span><\/figcaption><span class=\"im-image-caption\"\/><\/div>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">The painting caused an immediate stir when it was exhibited, with many claiming it to be vulgar and deliberately provocative. Sargent eventually reworked the painting so that the offending strap no longer slipped down. He later said of the work, \u201cI suppose it is the best thing I have ever done\u201d. In 2024, the portrait of Madame X returned to the country for the first time in 20 years, loaned to the Tate Britain.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">After the Madame X scandal, Sargent moved to London and settled on Tite Street in bohemian Chelsea. Here, his neighbours included American painter James Whistler and writer Oscar Wilde. By the 1890s, he had achieved international recognition as a portrait artist and was in demand on both sides of the Atlantic. In this period his sitters included many distinguished individuals \u2013 from wealthy industrialists and statesmen to well-known actors and writers. He became famous for his sumptuous portraits of the wealthy, capturing luxurious fabrics and sparkling jewels with his incredible technical skill. Sitting for a portrait by Sargent became the ultimate mark of distinction.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sargent\u2019s life: \u201cAnything but conventional\u201d<\/h3>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sargent never married and was very private about his personal life. Many believed that he had romantic relationships with men. Indeed, the French artist Jacques-\u00c9mile Blanche, who knew Sargent, claimed his liaisons with men were \u201cnotorious in Paris, and in Venice, positively scandalous\u201d.<\/p>\n<div class=\"image-handler__container image-handler__container--full\" style=\"padding-bottom: calc(100% * (538 \/ 808));\"> <picture> <source media=\"(max-width: 320px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=300%2C200, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=45&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=600%2C400 2x\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 320px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=300%2C200, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=45&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=600%2C400 2x\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 375px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=355%2C236, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=45&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=710%2C473 2x\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 375px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=355%2C236, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=45&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=710%2C473 2x\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 425px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=405%2C270\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 425px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=405%2C270\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 589px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=554%2C369\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 589px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=554%2C369\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 992px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=620%2C413\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 992px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=620%2C413\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=408%2C272\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=408%2C272\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 590px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=556%2C370\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 590px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=556%2C370\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <img data-crop-width=\"808\" data-crop-height=\"538\" class=\"wp-image-264281 align size-landscape_thumbnail image-handler__image image-handler__image--full no-wrap js-lazyload\" srcset=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-640475529-b1af830.jpg?quality=90&amp;crop=2px%2C80px%2C808px%2C538px&amp;resize=620%2C413\" width=\"620\" height=\"413\" alt=\"John Singer Sargant. (Photo by J.E. Purdy\/Library of Congress\/Corbis\/VCG via Getty Images)\" title=\"John Singer Sargant. (Photo by J.E. Purdy\/Library of Congress\/Corbis\/VCG via Getty Images)\"\/>\n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><div class=\"caption-hold\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-copy\"><i class=\"icon-arrow icon-camera-circle\"\/> John Singer Sargant. (Photo by J.E. Purdy\/Library of Congress\/Corbis\/VCG via Getty Images)<\/span><\/figcaption><span class=\"im-image-caption\"\/><\/div>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although scholars have historically been reluctant to explore this aspect of the artist\u2019s life, it has received more attention in recent years. It has been suggested, for instance, that Sargent may have had a relationship with Thomas McKeller, an African-American model who was the subject of many of his striking nude studies. A number of Sargent\u2019s sitters and friends are also known to have had same-sex relationships, from trailblazing suffragette and composer Ethel Smyth to his neighbour Oscar Wilde.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">While we might ask what difference it makes to his art whether or not Sargent was gay, this is just one aspect of his life and career that challenges the view of the artist as a shallow society artist. Looking beneath the spectacular surface of Sargent\u2019s portraits, we find a fascinatingly complex figure who was anything but conventional.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">By 1907, Sargent had grown tired of demanding patrons and said he would no longer accept commissions. Instead, he produced charcoal sketches of his clients, which could be completed in a single sitting. He called these works \u2018mugs\u2019.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sargent now devoted himself to landscapes, also working on a series of murals for the Boston Public Library in America (which he had started in 1890).<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">During the First World War, the British Government commissioned Sargent to paint a war scene which was to be the central painting for a Hall of Remembrance. His theme was meant to be Anglo-American co-operation, but instead he produced a huge oil painting depicting the aftermath of a mustard gas attack on the western front \u2013 he had travelled to the front to see the devastation for himself.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Read more | <a href=\"https:\/\/www.historyextra.com\/membership\/deaf-artists-art-creators-renaissance-europe\/\">The \u201csilent study of art\u201d: the deaf artists of the Renaissance<\/a><\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">This huge, haunting picture is perhaps surprising to those who associate the artist with wealthy sitters at leisure in their finery. <em>Gassed<\/em> can be seen at the Imperial War Museum in London.<\/p>\n<div class=\"image-handler__container image-handler__container--full\" style=\"padding-bottom: calc(100% * (386 \/ 1024));\"> <picture> <source media=\"(max-width: 320px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=300%2C113, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=45&amp;resize=600%2C226 2x, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=45&amp;resize=900%2C339 3x\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 320px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=300%2C113, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=45&amp;resize=600%2C226 2x, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=45&amp;resize=900%2C339 3x\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 375px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=355%2C134, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=45&amp;resize=710%2C268 2x\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 375px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=355%2C134, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=45&amp;resize=710%2C268 2x\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 425px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=405%2C153, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=45&amp;resize=810%2C305 2x\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 425px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=405%2C153, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=45&amp;resize=810%2C305 2x\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 589px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=554%2C209\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(max-width: 589px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=554%2C209\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 992px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=620%2C234\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 992px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=620%2C234\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=408%2C154, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=45&amp;resize=816%2C308 2x\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=408%2C154, https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=45&amp;resize=816%2C308 2x\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 590px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?webp=true&amp;quality=90&amp;resize=556%2C210\" type=\"image\/webp\"> <source media=\"(min-width: 590px)\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=556%2C210\" type=\"image\/jpeg\"> <img class=\"wp-image-264284 align size-full image-handler__image image-handler__image--full no-wrap js-lazyload\" srcset=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" data-src=\"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/7\/2024\/03\/GettyImages-154424059-83ff421.jpg?quality=90&amp;resize=620%2C234\" width=\"1024\" height=\"386\" alt=\"'Gassed' A painting by John Singer Sargent depicting side on view of a line of soldiers being led along a duckboard by a medical orderly. Their eyes are bandaged as a result of exposure to gas and each man holds on to the shoulder of the man in front. One of the line has his leg raised in an exaggerated posture as though walking up a step, and another veers out of the line with his back to the viewer. There is another line of temporarily blinded soldiers in the background, one soldier leaning over vomiting onto the ground. More gas-affected men lie in the foreground, one of them drinking from a water-bottle. The crowd of wounded soldiers continues on the far side of the duckboard, and the tent ropes of a dressing station are visible in the right of the composition. A football match is being played in the background, lit by the evening sun, circa 1919. (Photo by John Singer Sargent\/ Imperial War Museums via Getty Images)\" title=\"John Singer Sargent's Gassed\"\/>\n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><div class=\"caption-hold\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\"><span class=\"caption-copy\"><i class=\"icon-arrow icon-camera-circle\"\/> \u2018Gassed\u2019 by John Singer Sargent. (Photo by John Singer Sargent\/ Imperial War Museums via Getty Images)<\/span><\/figcaption><span class=\"im-image-caption\"\/><\/div>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sargent died of a heart attack in 1925 and was buried in Surrey\u2019s Brookwood Cemetery. Even before his death, the artist\u2019s reputation had been in decline \u2013 his Gilded Age portraits were out of step with modernism and seemed like a relic of a bygone age. Some critiqued his work as being shallow, showy and superficial.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">Later in the 20th century, though, there was a revival of interest in Sargent\u2019s work and a growing recognition for the way he had drawn upon the style of old masters like Anthony van Dyck and Diego Vel\u00e1zquez. A re-evaluation of Sargent\u2019s work also shows him to be far more progressive than one might initially assume.<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sargent and fashion<\/h3>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">The premise of the 2024 Tate Britain exhibition <em>Sargent and Fashion<\/em> explores the artist\u2019s role as a stylist, looking at how he used clothing to construct a particular image. Featuring several of the dresses and opulent accessories that can be seen in Sargent\u2019s portraits, the exhibition reunites these items with the paintings for the first time.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">A particular highlight is a room devoted to Sargent\u2019s portraits of performers, where visitors can marvel at his dramatic portrait of celebrated actor Ellen Terry. He immortalised Terry in the role of Shakespeare\u2019s Lady Macbeth, wearing an emerald green dress embroidered with hundreds of iridescent beetle wings. Sargent\u2019s portrait is displayed alongside the dress itself, loaned for the first time by the National Trust.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">One fascinating section of the exhibition looks at how the artist was drawn to sitters who subverted gender roles. One example is his portrait of close friend Violet Paget, better known as the writer Vernon Lee \u2013 she chose a name that was deliberately androgynous. Sargent painted Lee in the masculine clothing she favoured. Like several other women in Sargent\u2019s circle, Lee had romantic relationships with women.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the same room as Vernon Lee is Sargent\u2019s 1881 portrait <em>Dr Pozzi at Home<\/em>. The sitter was a renowned surgeon who was something of a dandy \u2013 Sargent painted him in a flamboyant red dressing gown and Turkish slippers, an unconventional choice and a bold aesthetic statement. When it was displayed at the Royal Academy, Vernon Lee said the portrait of Pozzi had \u201can insolent kind of magnificence, more or less kicking other people\u2019s pictures to bits\u201d. Visitors to the Tate Britain, who will see Pozzi displayed among many pieces that testify to Sargent\u2019s subversive work and revised reputation, might find a similar effect today.<\/p>\n<section class=\"highlight \"> <div class=\"highlight__content editor-content\"> <h4>Edwardian Entertainment<\/h4>\n<h6>Want to delve a little deeper into the world of the Edwardian elite? Here are some recommendations<\/h6>\n<p><strong><em>The Gilded Age<\/em>\u00a0(2022\u2013)<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Julian Fellowes\u2019 HBO drama exploring the opulence of New York society in the 1880s has been renewed for a third season. Capturing the world in which Sargent moved \u2013 there is even a cameo from Oscar Wilde \u2013 eagle-eyed viewers may even notice some of the costumes directly influenced by his portraits.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Vita Sackville-West\u2019s\u00a0<em>The Edwardians\u00a0<\/em>(1930)<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This novel by English author and garden designer Sackville-West captures (and critiques) the glittering social whirl at an aristocratic Edwardian estate. Sackville-West was very familiar with this elite world, having grown up at Knole in Kent \u2013 her grand family estate, now managed by the National Trust. Sargent knew her family.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Sound of John Singer Sargent<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Sargent was mad about music and had considerable musical talent himself. The team at the Tate has compiled\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/playlist\/1BCGUoYEHP5msc1XedOAta?si=90fee271bd7e4de0\">a Spotify playlist of music that inspired the artist<\/a> which provides the perfect soundtrack to the new exhibition. It includes music by some of the many composers who sat for Sargent.<\/p>\n<p> <\/p><\/div> <\/section> <p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\"><strong>\u2018Sargent and Fashion\u2019 is now open at the Tate Britain. It runs until 7 July 2024<\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"font-weight: 400\"><strong>Dr Anna Maria Barry is a writer and historian who specialises in Victorian and Edwardian culture<\/strong><\/p> <\/body><\/html>\n<hr class=\"no-tts wp-block-separator\"\/>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p> As an exhibition at Tate Britain explores the bold portraits of John Singer Sargent (1856\u20131925), Anna Maria Barry takes a look at what the work of this celebrated society artist can tell us about the gilded world of the Edwardian elite <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":34482,"template":"","categories":[1],"acf":{"readingTimeMinutes":"8"},"uagb_featured_image_src":{"full":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/46\/2024\/03\/scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite.jpg",524,1024,false],"thumbnail":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/46\/2024\/03\/scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite-150x150.jpg",150,150,true],"medium":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/46\/2024\/03\/scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite-154x300.jpg",154,300,true],"medium_large":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/46\/2024\/03\/scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite.jpg",524,1024,false],"large":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/46\/2024\/03\/scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite.jpg",524,1024,false],"1536x1536":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/46\/2024\/03\/scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite.jpg",524,1024,false],"2048x2048":["https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/uploads\/sites\/46\/2024\/03\/scandalous-portraits-and-subversive-fashion-john-singer-sargent-and-the-edwardian-elite.jpg",524,1024,false]},"uagb_author_info":{"display_name":"importmanagerhub@sprylab.com","author_link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/author\/importmanagerhubsprylab-com\/"},"uagb_comment_info":0,"uagb_excerpt":"As an exhibition at Tate Britain explores the bold portraits of John Singer Sargent (1856\u20131925), Anna Maria Barry takes a look at what the work of this celebrated society artist can tell us about the gilded world of the Edwardian elite","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/rss_feed\/34481"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/rss_feed"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/rss_feed"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/24"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/34482"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=34481"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbchistory\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=34481"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}