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Published: Monday, 27 January 2025 at 12:48 PM


Today (27 January) is International Holocaust Remembrance Day, which marks the anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz-Birkenau, the largest Nazi concentration and death camp. To commemorate this day, we tell one of the most moving stories from World War II: the tale of Terezín, a Nazi ghetto and concentration camp in modern-day Czech Republic that became, among other things, a vibrant home for music and the arts amid appalling suffering.

‘I remember my first concert was in winter time, very cold. So I was playing in my coat, in my high boots and I don’t remember whether I had something on my head, but I played. I admire still now the people who came – old, ill and suffering. It was a remedy, for us and for them.’

In 2010 106-year-old pianist Alice Herz-Sommer remembered clearly the concerts she gave in the Terezín ghetto during World War II, with works by Bach, Beethoven and contemporary composers. She still had vivid memories of an extraordinary place where music became a source of sustenance, literally a life-saver, in the most extreme conditions. ‘When I played,’ she added, ‘we felt we were nearer to God.’

Where is Terezín?

Terezín (Theresienstadt in German) is a garrison town built in the 1780s by Hapsburg Emperor Joseph II, which lies about 60km northwest of Prague. Built on a grid pattern round a church and central square, it is enclosed by fortified red walls. In Nazi-occupied Czechoslovakia, from November 1941 until the Soviet liberation in May 1945, it became a ghetto and concentration camp for the Jews of central Europe.

The grounds of The Jewish Cemetery in Terezin, Czech Republic. (Photo by Craig Stennett/Getty Images) – Craig Stennett/Getty Images

What were conditions like in Terezín?

Terezín may not have been an extermination camp, but its conditions were appalling. Up to 60,000 people were crammed into a town built for 6,000, one in four of the inmates died and transport left regularly for Auschwitz.

However, the town was administered – under Nazi supervision – by the Jews themselves. And as a form of damage limitation they organised an incredible cultural life which included lectures, theatre, cabaret, music and opera. At first it took place in secret with performances in cellars and attics with pianist and conductor Rafael Schächter, who was one of the main instigators. Then, when cultural activities became officially permitted, the Jewish-run Freizeitgestaltung (Free-time administration) organised regular concerts and even produced programmes and artistic posters for the events.

‘There was no competitiveness, no hierarchy’

‘People needed to live some kind of normal life, under abnormal conditions, because it gave them hope and made them forget their situation,’ remembered actress Zdenka Fantlová, who was 18 when she arrived in Terezín. Working in the kitchens alongside the conductor Karel Ančerl (who survived to become principal conductor of the Czech Philharmonic), in her free time she got involved in the cabaret.

‘Terezín was really ideal for the arts. There was no competitiveness, no hierarchy. Everybody gave their best out of sheer enthusiasm. But of course there were transports constantly being assembled – going to the east. We didn’t know what it meant or what was in store for us; only the Germans knew. So they let us get on with it and we were just dancing under the gallows.’

‘Play to us and make us well again’

The ghetto was home to an incredible pool of talent – directors, designers, artists, actors, musicians and composers – though it’s not the case, as is often mistakenly thought, that they were specially selected to go to Terezín. Helga Weissová-Hošková was just 12 when she arrived. As a very talented young artist her father told her simply to ‘draw what you see’ and her pictures, with their childish naivety, are some of the most moving from Terezín.

One depicts the string quartet led by Egon Ledeč, an associate leader of the Czech Philharmonic. ‘I remember them playing when we were all cramped together in the barracks,’ she says. ‘My father wrote a poem and dedicated it to Ledeč: “On behalf of us all, dear friends/ Play to us and make us well again/ We must live each moment to the full/ If we don’t die like cattle.”’

Terezin ghetto dormitories
Dormitories at the Terezín ghetto. Pic: Oscar Gonzalez/NurPhoto via Getty Images – Oscar Gonzalez/NurPhoto via Getty Images

Ironically, Terezín was, culturally speaking, probably the freest place in occupied Europe, with inmates left to get on with their performances unhindered. Outside, music by Jewish composers, jazz, and what the Nazis called entartete Musik (degenerate music) were forbidden. So what was going on in Terezín was astonishing: performances of new, ‘degenerate’ pieces by Jewish composers, as well as jazz and satirical cabaret.

A thinly disguised Hitler caricature

The leading figure of the political cabaret was Karel Švenk, writing both words and music. The Terezín March he composed for his first cabaret in 1941 became so popular it was repeated in all subsequent shows. The Last Cyclist, his most powerful show, was a political satire on the Nazi’s racial policies. ‘In The Last Cyclist the Kaiser had to pacify the people who were undergoing severe shortages,’ remembers Fantlová. ‘So he blamed the cyclists. They were the cause of all the trouble because they were internationally connected and so they had to get rid of them.’