Buy from Canon UK, Jessops, Wex

Key specs

• Sensor: 35.9mm x 23.9mm, 20MP full frame CMOS
• ISO range: 100–102400, expandable to 204800
• Live View: Magnify image by 5x and 10x for manual focusing
• High frame rate: Full HD at 100fps
• Body size: 138.4mm x 97.5mm x 88.4mm
• Weight: 680g (without a lens)

Do you have an astrophotography camera that you think should be included on our list? Let us know by emailing contactus@skyatnightmagazine.com.

Deep-sky astrophotography Masterclass

Interested in astrophotography? Sign up for our Deep-Sky Imaging Masterclass and find out how to capture distant galaxies and nebulae.

Click here to book tickets for all three Masterclasses and save 20%

Different types of camera for astrophotography

Smartphones

One of the best cameras for astrophotography is the one that you’ll use most often, to paraphrase a famous astronomy idiom about choosing telescopes.

Smartphones can perform entry-level astrophotography, while some offer the ability to take long exposures, meaning you can pick up Milky Way details or star trails.

You can also hold smartphones up to a telescope eyepiece to take pictures, or use a smartphone adaptor (more on this below).

This enables lunar and planetary imaging, but it’s difficult to get sharp images.

Although some smartphones have multiple cameras installed, these are tricky to line up to eyepieces.

In a nutshell, smartphones are not dedicated astrophotography products and don’t offer the exposure control of a DSLR camera.

For more on smartphone astrophotography, read our top tips for photographing the night sky with a smartphone, or the best smartphone astrophotography gadgets.

• Best suited for Star trails, Milky Way and general wide-field imaging
• Limitations Deep-sky photography
• Ideal accessories Tripod, telescope adaptor

DSLR cameras

DSLRs (Digital single-lens reflex cameras) are good all-rounders, and for that reason are among the best cameras for astrophotography.

Because you can alter the ISO level and manage exposure lengths, these cameras are easily adapted for many astronomy targets.

Increasing the ISO setting ensures a DSLR can pick up details from deep-sky objects, including nebulae.

But if this is coupled with a long exposure time there can be an issue with noise (unwanted artefacts) creeping in.

This might be because the ISO is too high (the best ISO varies between cameras) or because the exposure time is causing the sensor to warm up.

DSLRs with ‘Live View’ or video capability can be used for planetary imaging, although they’re less efficient at cutting through atmospheric distortion than a planetary camera.

For more on this, read our guide to astronomical seeing.

Some astro imagers modify a DSLR by removing the infrared (IR) filter, which makes it more sensitive to nebulae.

A modified DSLR also allows narrowband filters to be used, which improve image details.

Keep your camera in pristine condition with our guide on how to clean a DSLR camera. Get more out of your camera with our DSLR guide.

• Best suited for Wide-field, lunar and deep-sky imaging
• Limitations Exposures lasting over ~5 minutes, planetary imaging
• Ideal accessories Tracking mount, intervalometer (remote shutter release cable)

Planetary cameras and webcams

Planetary imaging requires a telescope and you’ll find that reflectors are most suitable because of their long focal lengths.

If a planetary camera is also coupled with a 2x Barlow lens you’ll be able to achieve the magnification required for planetary detail.

While the camera’s high frame rate will allow you to cut through atmospheric turbulence.

You’ll require a laptop to run these cameras and, as you’re viewing an object up close, a solid tracking telescope mount is also needed.

This allows you to keep the planet central in the field of view.

When it comes to deep-sky imaging, planetary cameras have small sensors, which means they’re not always suited.

It’s also possible to modify an off-the-shelf webcam for planetary imaging, so that it fits into the eyepiece holder of your telescope (see below for more details).

• Best suited for Lunar and planetary imaging
• Limitations Deep-sky objects and wide-field imaging
• Ideal accessories Laptop, 2x Barlow lens, processing software (eg RegiStax)

CMOS & CCD cameras

CMOS and CCDs are ‘dedicated astrocams’ designed to be fitted to a telescope, so they certainly fall under the category of best cameras for astrophotography.

Each comes in ‘colour’ – for RGB (Red, Green and Blue) imaging – or ‘mono’ variants. Mono cameras require the use of colour or narrowband filters.

CCD (charge-coupled device) cameras are suited for long-exposure astrophotography (10-plus minutes per frame).

This is because they have ‘set-point’ cooling systems that keep the sensor temperature constant, which is known as ‘active’ camera cooling.

CMOS sensors perform better with shorter exposures and come as either actively or ‘passively’ cooled.

Laptops are needed to run either device.

To maximise CCD exposure times, additional accessories – including guiding equipment and software – are often required.

Using these cameras can be a steep learning curve, so it’s best to build up to it gradually.

There are adaptors available that fit these ‘astro cams’ to DSLR camera lenses, which allows you to use them for wide-field deep-sky imaging.

For more on CCDs, read our guide to the best CCD cameras for astrophotography or our beginner’s guide to CMOS astrophotography.

• Best suited forDeep-sky imaging
• Limitations Milky Way and wide-field imaging
• Accessories Laptop, telescope, guide equipment and software

Connecting a camera to your telescope

You can go far with astrophotography by using DSLR cameras and lenses, but for a deep-sky object or planetary photography the addition of a telescope to your setup will widen your options. Your target will appear larger, allowing more detail.

Smartphones can be fitted to a telescope eyepiece holder via an adaptor: you just need the right one for your model. If you fancy making your own, read our DIY guide to making a smartphone adaptor for your telescope.

To attach a DSLR you will need a T-ring and nosepiece. The T-ring fits to the camera like a lens.

For example, if you are using a Canon DSLR, you’ll need a Canon-fit T ring.

The nosepiece is either 2-inch or 1.25-inch and you’ll find that most telescopes take either diameter.

Find out more about this in our guide on how to connect a DSLR camera to a telescope.

If you are using a webcam, you’ll need to consider modifying it to fit to the scope’s eyepiece holder.

This often involves stripping the webcam down to rehouse it in suitable casing. How difficult and effective this is will depend on the model.

If you are using a 2x or 3x Barlow lens and a reflector, you’ll pop the Barlow into the eyepiece barrel before attaching your webcam.

Designated planetary cameras, CCD and CMOS devices, come with a nosepiece attachment that fits to your scope.

We’ve reviewed a lot of astro imaging cameras over the years at BBC Sky at Night Magazine, from value models that provide reliable quality for those on a lower budget, to more high-end cameras for professionals or those who want to take their astrophotography to the next step.

If you want more information about buying the best astrophotography cameras, browse all of our camera reviews.

Or if you already have your camera sorted, read our guide to the best telescopes for astrophotography.

And don’t forget to send us your astrophotos. We always love to see them, and they could end up appearing in print in a future edition of BBC Sky at Night Magazine.