{"id":42864,"date":"2023-03-14T10:53:58","date_gmt":"2023-03-14T10:53:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.skyatnightmagazine.com\/?p=117017"},"modified":"2023-03-14T11:32:36","modified_gmt":"2023-03-14T11:32:36","slug":"how-to-attach-a-dslr-camera-to-a-telescope","status":"publish","type":"rss_feed","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbcskyatnight\/rss_feed\/how-to-attach-a-dslr-camera-to-a-telescope\/","title":{"rendered":"How to attach a DSLR camera to a telescope"},"content":{"rendered":"

How to use a telescope like a camera lens for close-up shots of the stars. <\/p>

By Charlotte Daniels\n \t\t<\/p>

Published: Tuesday, 14 March 2023 at 12:00 am<\/p>

\n\n

DSLR cameras are great for astrophotography<\/a>. They\u2019re highly adaptable and entry- and mid-level models are reasonably affordable thanks to an active secondhand market.<\/p>\n

And, as I\u2019ll explain, they\u2019re easy to attach to a telescope in place of the lens.<\/p>\n

For more advice, read our guide on how to use a DSLR<\/a> and how to do astrophotography with a DSLR<\/a>, or discover our pick of the best astrophotography cameras<\/a>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

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Attaching a telescope means the \u2018scope essentially becomes your camera\u2019s lens. Credit: Gajus \/ iStock \/ Getty Images Plus<\/span><\/figcaption><\/div>\n

While a camera lens might allow widefield astrophotography, attaching a DSLR to a telescope lets you get close up to plenty of subjects, and will display them in a whole new light.<\/p>\n

The telescope\u2019s long focal length is the secret ingredient.<\/p>\n

Furthermore, camera lenses are designed for daylight conditions rather than night skies.<\/p>\n

This means, among other things, a lens can distort astrophotos by introducing curved stars towards the edges of an image, or colour distortions so that stars show colour fringing.<\/p>\n

Most telescopes are suitable for pairing with a DSLR.<\/p>\n

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A DSLR settings screen will include: 1) ISO; 2) Aperture\/f-stop number; 3) Exposure; and 4) White balance (here on auto, \u2018AWB\u2019)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/div>\n

However, longer focal lengths can be tricky for beginners as they highlight tracking inaccuracies with the mount<\/a>, such as an incorrect polar alignment<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Some reflecting telescopes will not achieve focus with a camera attached, so it is always best to check online forums and reviews to see whether the model is suitable for your DSLR.<\/p>\n

Standard DSLRs are manufactured for use during the day, but their settings can be optimised for low-light and night-time conditions.<\/p>\n

Whether yours will make a good astro camera depends on a few key things: it should have a \u2018Bulb\u2019 setting that allows exposure times to be manually set, a live view function to help star focus, and the ISO setting should be adjustable.<\/p>\n

Focussing on your target correctly<\/strong><\/h2>\n
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A remote shutter release will help stop camera shake blurring your photos<\/span><\/figcaption><\/div>\n

An intervalometer or remote shutter release is an indispensable piece of kit to have.<\/p>\n

This affordable accessory lets you fire off multiple exposures without joggling the camera, as well as programme exposure times once in Bulb mode.<\/p>\n

Keep this plugged into your DSLR at the start of an imaging session.<\/p>\n

Once basic DSLR settings are understood, it\u2019s easy to use one to capture a range of astronomical objects with a telescope.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ll demonstrate with a Canon DSLR on the Orion Nebula<\/a>, M42.<\/p>\n

Useful buttons on a Canon are the \u2018Q\u2019 button, which allows you to switch between settings, and the zoom buttons for focus.<\/p>\n

Most models have similar buttons and settings.<\/p>\n

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The Orion Nebula captured by William Brown, Coarsegold, California, US, with a Nikon D7500 DSLR camera and Explore Scientific ED80 triplet apo refractor.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/div>\n

Before locating an object, focus your stars.<\/p>\n

Find a bright star such as Vega<\/a> or Aldebaran<\/a> and press the live view button. It should appear on the camera\u2019s screen.<\/p>\n

If it doesn\u2019t, the camera is probably very out of focus, so adjust this.<\/p>\n

The star should grow or shrink accordingly, and we want it small and sharp.<\/p>\n

Use the zoom button to zoom in on the view on-screen and, once satisfied, zoom back out to return it to normal.<\/p>\n

Now take a test image to make sure the stars are like pinpricks.<\/p>\n

Set the ISO to about 800 and shoot off a short exposure of around five seconds.<\/p>\n

Once the stars look good, it\u2019s time to find the Orion Nebula.<\/p>\n

Once it\u2019s located, increase the exposure time. Select the Bulb setting and use your intervalometer to set the time to 20 seconds, which should be enough to show the nebula.<\/p>\n

Take a test image. Perhaps try increasing the ISO to 1600 and take another \u2013 does it look better or worse?<\/p>\n

Increase the exposure time to 30 seconds, and then a minute.<\/p>\n

The best ISO\/exposure combination will depend on your camera, but once this is found you\u2019re ready to start your deep-sky imaging run.<\/p>\n

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Harvest Moon by Tom Howard, Crawley, Sussex, UK. Equipment: Nikon D7000, TS 65mm quadruplet refractor, AZ4 mount.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/div>\n

DSLRs can also be used to photograph the Moon<\/a>.<\/p>\n

For this, you want a low ISO setting (start at the lowest and work your way up) and fast exposure times to prevent over-exposed and blurry images.<\/p>\n

A camera\u2019s video capability helps, as the high frame rate will cut through Earth\u2019s atmosphere to produce sharper images.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re buying a telescope for DSLR astro imaging, you\u2019ll also need to consider the other equipment required.<\/p>\n

For one, telescopes do require a tracking mount \u2013 their longer focal lengths show a small section of the sky, so objects and stars move across the field of view quickly.<\/p>\n

Depending on the weight of the telescope and camera combined, you may get away with a lightweight, portable mount.<\/p>\n

Don\u2019t forget your T-ring and nosepiece!<\/strong><\/h2>\n
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With a manufacturer-specific T-ring locked on your camera body and threaded nosepiece, your DSLR will soon be imaging the stars. Credit: Pete Lawrence<\/span><\/figcaption><\/div>\n

The two things you need to attach your DSLR to a telescope are a \u2018T-ring\u2019 and a nosepiece.<\/p>\n

T-rings are manufacturer-specific, so make sure you get the right one for your DSLR.<\/p>\n

To an extent, the T-ring you require can also depend on the model of camera. For example, a Canon DSLR with a full-frame sensor will often take the same T-ring as one with a smaller APS-C sensor, but Canon mirrorless cameras have a different lens attachment and so need a mirrorless T-ring.<\/p>\n

The next thing you need to do is measure the width of your telescope focuser, where an eyepiece would go.<\/p>\n

Most take either 1.25-inch or 2-inch barrels. We recommend, if possible, telescopes with at least a 2-inch as it helps reduce vignetting in your images.<\/p>\n

Once you\u2019ve measured the diameter, you should acquire a 1.25- or 2-inch-to-T2 nosepiece.<\/p>\n

To attach the camera to your telescope, first fit the nosepiece to your T-ring.<\/p>\n

The nosepiece is threaded, so will screw in. Then remove the front cap or lens from your DSLR camera body and attach the T-ring exactly as if you were attaching a\ncamera lens.<\/p>\n

Finally, insert the free end of the nosepiece <\/span>into your telescope focuser as you would an eyepiece and secure it by tightening the screw(s) located on the focuser.<\/p>\n

You\u2019re now ready to start imaging.<\/p>\n

Are you an astrophotographer? Send us your images<\/a>!<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

This guide originally appeared in the March 2023 issue of <\/strong><\/em>BBC Sky at Night Magazine<\/strong>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p> <\/body><\/html>\n

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