{"id":54072,"date":"2024-01-18T09:32:01","date_gmt":"2024-01-18T09:32:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/19efe097-9e73-43f7-a1e4-b2f44972ae01"},"modified":"2024-01-18T10:32:35","modified_gmt":"2024-01-18T10:32:35","slug":"how-to-use-a-dslr-camera","status":"publish","type":"rss_feed","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbcskyatnight\/rss_feed\/how-to-use-a-dslr-camera\/","title":{"rendered":"How to use a DSLR camera"},"content":{"rendered":"

Learn DSLR basics with our beginner’s photography guide, teaching you DSLR camera settings and techniques for capturing beautiful images. <\/p>

By Charlotte Daniels\n <\/p>

Published: Thursday, 18 January 2024 at 09:32 AM<\/p>

\n\n

In this guide we’ll show you how to use a DSLR camera, giving you the basic skills to understand the settings and controls you need to capture amazing images.<\/p>

DSLR cameras, or digital single-lens reflex cameras, are brilliantly versatile cameras, and for a wide range of reasons.<\/p>

Great for beginners, DSLRs are easy to use and can be cheap to buy, depending on the model. Plus, there\u2019s a good secondhand market for entry level cameras.<\/p>

\"North — North America Nebula and Pelican Nebula, by Paul Moyers, Merseyside, 29 November 2019. Equipment: Canon EOS 1200D DSLR, Altair Astro 60 EDF refractor, Skywatcher Star Adventurer mount<\/figcaption><\/figure>
You can get started in DSLR astrophotography simply with the camera and a tripod, rather than jumping straight into guiding with a mount<\/a>.<\/p>
Lenses also provide the ability to shoot at longer focal lengths before buying your first telescope<\/a>. There are also many social media groups that showcase DSLR astro images and provide support and advice.<\/p>
In this guide we\u2019ll outline tips for basic DSLR astrophotograpy, including preferred specifications, imaging formats and key settings.<\/p>
We’ll be referring to a variety of Canon DSLRs, but you\u2019ll find that most models have a similarly recognisable array of buttons and screen settings.<\/p>
**Find out** **how to attach a DSLR camera to a telescope<\/a>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>**
DSLR camera types<\/h2>
$\"The$
The Canon EOS Ra is a full-frame mirrorless camera built for astrophotography.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
If you want to know how to use a DSLR camera, it helps to understand the two basic kinds available.<\/p>
The two main types of DSLR camera are full-frame and crop sensor (APS-C).<\/p>
Full-frame DSLRs have a larger chip, giving them a wider field of view and greater sensitivity than those with a crop sensor.<\/p>
Some DSLRs are more suited to astro imaging than others, and the minimum requirements depend on the photos you wish to take.<\/p>
For example, deep-sky imaging requires a DSLR that has \u2018Bulb\u2019 mode.<\/p>
This allows you to attach a remote shutter control and shoot multiple long exposure frames.<\/p>
The ability to increase ISO levels is also a must (more on this below).<\/p>
Meanwhile, if you want to photograph the Moon<\/a> or photograph planets<\/a>, you’ll benefit most from video, as the high frame rate is better at cutting through Earth\u2019s atmosphere to produce sharp images.<\/p>
A DSLR with video capability is an advantage, but often a fast exposure time is sufficient.<\/p>
DSLRs are also great for wide-field views, because you can attach a wide, fast lens (eg f\/2.8).<\/p>
$\"The$
The Milky Way over a lake near Mount Sabalan, Iran, 12 August 2021. Photographed by Parisa Bajelan using a Canon EOS 6D DSLR camera and 16-35 Canon lens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
The benefits of Live View<\/strong><\/h2>
One thing that your DSLR requires is a \u2018Live View\u2019 function. This means that instead of looking through a viewfinder, the image is displayed on its digital screen.<\/p>
This not only helps to line up an image, but means you can achieve sharp focus on stars.<\/p>
In terms of physical characteristics, this is down to individual preference, but we\u2019ve found that an articulated \u2018flip-screen\u2019 can make all types of astro imaging easier.<\/p>
These allow you to view frames from awkward angles, including objects overhead. This combined with a touch-screen LCD is even better, as it helps prevent you from nudging the camera.<\/p>
Two rules that apply for all astrophotography are to shoot in \u2018Manual,\u2019 and in RAW image format, as this enhances image-editing control.<\/p>
We\u2019ll now take a look at what DSLR settings and how to use these to produce spectacular photographs.<\/p>
**DSLR settings explained<\/strong><\/h2>** $\"A$
A DSLR settings screen will include: 1) ISO; 2) Aperture\/f-stop number; 3) Exposure; and 4) White balance (here on auto, \u2018AWB\u2019)<\/figcaption><\/figure>
**ISO<\/strong><\/h3>**ISO<\/a> changes your DSLR\u2019s sensitivity to light and is one of the most important settings to get used to.<\/p>
ISO ranges vary between models. Some go from 100 to 12600 and beyond.<\/p>
The lower the ISO setting, the less sensitive your camera will be to light and vice versa.<\/p>
However, this sensitivity is also dependant on the exposure setting: a camera on a low ISO setting but long exposure will pick up more detail than one on the same ISO setting, but with a shorter exposure time.<\/p>
If using a DSLR to photograph the Moon, which is bright, you don\u2019t want a high ISO as it will wash out the image and mean you lose detail.<\/p>
For Moon images, select your DSLR’s lowest level, ISO 100, from the ISO menu.<\/p>
We don\u2019t tend to use \u2018Auto\u2019 functions in astrophotography, instead opting to manually choose the best setting.<\/p>
$\"The$
The Moon over the High Tatras mountains, Tom\u00e1\u0161 Slovinsk\u00fd, Vlkov\u00e1, Slovakia, 28 January 2021. Equipment: Canon 6D DSLR, TS-Optics 1000mm lens<\/figcaption><\/figure>
Aperture\/f-stop number<\/strong><\/h3>
The f-stop number that your DSLR is set at is another important factor. F-stop affects the depth of field and how \u2018wide open\u2019 your camera aperture is.<\/p>
A low f-stop number means the aperture is wider (and is often referred to as a \u2018fast\u2019 setting): the DSLR will receive more light, but the depth of field in the image is shallow.<\/p>
This isn\u2019t important for lunar imaging, but it becomes apparent in wide-field imaging since a shallow depth of field will affect the focus of the foreground.<\/p>
We don\u2019t want a low f-stop number to image a bright target like the Moon because not only will it allow light to flood the camera sensor, but it will also limit lens performance.<\/p>
Every lens is different, however it\u2019s best to start at f\/7 and work your way upwards to see what produces the best results, stopping when the image looks sharp.<\/p>
Both images of the Moon below are captured at f\/7.1 aperture on a lens of 400mm, f\/5.7 focal length.<\/p>
$\"2$
2 images of the Moon taken at ISO 100 with an aperture of f\/7.1, using exposures of 1\/250 seconds (left) and 1\/400 seconds (right). The Moon looks dull and less detailed in the right-hand image. Credit: Charlotte Daniels<\/figcaption><\/figure>
Exposure<\/strong><\/h3>
Understanding the effect of exposure time is crucial when learning how to use a DSLR camera.<\/p>
Depending on the brightness of the object imaged, a longer exposure usually means more detail.<\/p>
Deep-sky exposures can be up to 15 minutes per frame, though this depends on the camera and its sensor, which can heat up creating image noise.<\/p>
Because the Moon is so bright, exposures of that length long would completely wash out the image, so this type of photography needs shorter frames.<\/p>
You want to set a length that captures the detail in darker regions without overexposing lighter areas.<\/p>
For our lunar image above, we started at 1\/200 seconds and found the image too bright. We then tried 1\/250 and 1\/400 and captured the two images above.<\/p>
1\/400 seconds was a little too fast: the Moon looks dull and less detailed, even after processing.<\/p>
Of all the images taken, a combination of 1\/250 seconds exposure, with an ISO of 100 and and aperture of f\/7.1 proved to be best for the DSLR we used, a Canon EOS 700D.<\/p>
**White balance<\/strong><\/h3>**White balance (WB) is an important factor for daytime photography, but less so for astro imaging because we are shooting in RAW<\/a> image format.<\/p>
We do this to give the most control in post-processing, so the white balance of our image can be adjusted later using photo editing software.For this reason, white balance can be left in \u2018Auto\u2019 mode, or \u2018AWB\u2019.<\/p>
We can recommend Canon\u2019s \u2018Tungsten\u2019 WB setting, however, because it can benefit wide-field images by removing the reddish glow of light pollution<\/a>.<\/p>
A custom white balance may be needed for astro-modified cameras. This is because once the infrared (IR) filter is removed all images have a red hue.<\/p>
This can still be managed in processing, but it\u2019s easier to set up a custom white balance that you can apply from the camera if imaging without filters<\/a>.<\/p>
$\"Fixing$
Fixing noise makes a monumental difference: on the right is the single best frame from a video of Jupiter, on the left the final edit. Credit: Martin Lewis<\/figcaption><\/figure>
Noise reduction<\/strong><\/h3>
A common beginner\u2019s mistake is to have the noise reduction setting switched on for astrophotography, in an effort to remove the noise (unwanted artefacts) from frames.<\/p>
But this setting is counterproductive when imaging at night. If it\u2019s turned on, it effectively takes two photos for every exposure: a normal \u2018light\u2019 frame (which is your regular image), and a \u2018 dark frame<\/a>\u2019 designed to remove noise.<\/p>
The camera then subtracts this dark frame from the light frame, meaning each exposure takes twice as long.<\/p>
It\u2019s best to ensure noise reduction is switched off. On Canon DSLRs, this can be done from the main settings menu.<\/p>
The best way to remove noise is to take \u2018calibration frames\u2019. Dark frames are one type of calibration frame.<\/p>
Creating and applying calibration frames allows you to remove most forms of noise in post-processing. Find out more in our guide to image processing<\/a>, or our detailed guide on how to remove noise in astrophotography<\/a>.<\/p>
**How to use a DSLR camera at night<\/strong><\/h2>** $\"DSLR$
DSLR camera settings buttons. They are similar on most models, but may vary in position. Here the settings are: 1) \u2018Playback\u2019 button; 2) \u2018Q\u2019 button; 3) \u2018Live View\u2019 button; 4) \u2018Zoom\u2019 function<\/figcaption><\/figure>
It\u2019s worth getting to know your DSLR in daylight so that you can locate buttons by feel. On a Canon, well-used buttons include \u2018Playback\u2019, the \u2018Q\u2019 button, and \u2018Live View\u2019 and \u2018Zoom\u2019 functions.<\/p>
The location of these buttons varies between models and knowing them will help you to confidently set up your DSLR after sunset.<\/p>
In our example image above, the \u2018Live View\u2019 (3) and \u2018Zoom\u2019 (4) buttons help us focus, the \u2018Q\u2019 (2) button lets us switch between settings on the LCD display screen and \u2018Playback\u2019 (1) shows our test images.<\/p>
One challenge is focusing your DSLR for sharp stars, and this is where \u2018Live View\u2019 and \u2018Zoom\u2019 buttons are required.<\/p>
Before finding your desired target, use \u2018Live View\u2019 to find a bright star. Vega, (Alpha (\u03b1) Lyrae), Sirius (Alpha (\u03b1) Canis Majoris) and Deneb (Alpha (\u03b1) Cygni) are popular choices.<\/p>
Sirius is a particularly popular choice among many astrophotographers because you can take multiple images to photograph the changing colours of a twinkling star<\/a>.<\/p>
The DSLR\u2019s \u2018Zoom\u2019 buttons allow you to enlarge the star on your LCD screen and ensure your focus is precise.<\/p>
$\"Stars$
Stars Altair and Vega and the Milky Way, captured by S\u00e9rgio Concei\u00e7\u00e3o, Castle of Noudar, Barrancos, Portugal, 3 August 2019. Equipment: Canon EOS R mirrorless camera<\/figcaption><\/figure>
The 500 Rule in astrophotography<\/strong><\/h2>
Imaging deep-sky objects requires far longer exposure times than the Moon, and if you are using a regular tripod the ability to capture the Milky Way or nebulae is limited by star trailing.<\/p>
To keep stars pin-sharp at longer exposures, a tracking mount is needed.<\/p>
The 500 Rule in astrophotography gives a rough maximum exposure time depending on the focal length of the lens you\u2019re using.The wider your field of view, the longer the exposure time you can apply before you begin to get star trails<\/a>.<\/p>
If you are using a full-frame camera you divide 500 by the focal length of your camera lens.<\/p>
For crop sensors you apply the same rule, but multiply the focal length by 1.5 or 1.6 for Nikon and Canon DSLRs respectively.<\/p>
$\"Remember$
Remember the 500 rule when imaging the night sky to avoid star trails. Credit: Peter Brown<\/figcaption><\/figure>
If we are using a 14mm lens to shoot a wide-field image with a full-frame DSLR, we\u2019re limited to a maximum of 36 seconds per frame, but at 200mm this exposure time reduces to 3 seconds.<\/p>
While it\u2019s possible to image the deep sky with a DSLR on a tripod, for the best results you\u2019ll need a tracking mount to keep track of your target as it moves with the rotation of Earth.<\/p>
Without one, exposure times will be limited and the process of aligning and stacking multiple image files is complicated.<\/p>
**For more info, read our guide on using a** star tracker<\/a> mount for astrophotography. Or capture a deep-sky object yourself with our guide on how to photograph the Orion Nebula<\/a> and how to photograph the Andromeda Galaxy<\/a>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>
$\"Avoid$
Avoid noise (unwanted artefacts) in images by keeping ISO settings low. Left: ISO 12800. Right: ISO 1600.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
Signal noise<\/strong><\/h2>
Managing ISO and exposure times is important for deep-sky objects, and both need to be increased for nebulae.<\/p>
The \u2018500 Rule\u2019 gives the longest exposure time on a static tripod and we can increase the ISO to pick up more detail from the exposure.<\/p>
The best ISO performance will vary from model to model, and it\u2019s important to note that too high an exposure time will make the image noisy with a grainy appearance.<\/p>
Find your camera\u2019s \u2018sweet spot\u2019 where you can push the ISO to boost brightness without getting obvious electronic noise.<\/p>
When taking your test images there are times when setting a high ISO has its benefits: we often use ISO 6400 to find and position an object before switching to ISO 800 or 1600 for an imaging run. <\/p>
The process of locating a faint deep-sky object with a DSLR is tricky without a Go-To mount; this will not only do the job for but it will transform your results.<\/p>
*Charlotte Daniels is an amateur astronomer, astrophotographer and journalist. This guide originally appeared in the May 2021 issue of BBC Sky at Night Magazine.<\/em><\/strong><\/p> <\/body><\/html>\n*
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North America Nebula and Pelican Nebula, by Paul Moyers, Merseyside, 29 November 2019. Equipment: Canon EOS 1200D DSLR, Altair Astro 60 EDF refractor, Skywatcher Star Adventurer mount<\/figcaption><\/figure>
You can get started in DSLR astrophotography simply with the camera and a tripod, rather than jumping straight into guiding with a mount<\/a>.<\/p>
Lenses also provide the ability to shoot at longer focal lengths before buying your first telescope<\/a>. There are also many social media groups that showcase DSLR astro images and provide support and advice.<\/p>
In this guide we\u2019ll outline tips for basic DSLR astrophotograpy, including preferred specifications, imaging formats and key settings.<\/p>
We’ll be referring to a variety of Canon DSLRs, but you\u2019ll find that most models have a similarly recognisable array of buttons and screen settings.<\/p>
**Find out** **how to attach a DSLR camera to a telescope<\/a>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>**
DSLR camera types<\/h2>
$\"The$
The Canon EOS Ra is a full-frame mirrorless camera built for astrophotography.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
If you want to know how to use a DSLR camera, it helps to understand the two basic kinds available.<\/p>
The two main types of DSLR camera are full-frame and crop sensor (APS-C).<\/p>
Full-frame DSLRs have a larger chip, giving them a wider field of view and greater sensitivity than those with a crop sensor.<\/p>
Some DSLRs are more suited to astro imaging than others, and the minimum requirements depend on the photos you wish to take.<\/p>
For example, deep-sky imaging requires a DSLR that has \u2018Bulb\u2019 mode.<\/p>
This allows you to attach a remote shutter control and shoot multiple long exposure frames.<\/p>
The ability to increase ISO levels is also a must (more on this below).<\/p>
Meanwhile, if you want to photograph the Moon<\/a> or photograph planets<\/a>, you’ll benefit most from video, as the high frame rate is better at cutting through Earth\u2019s atmosphere to produce sharp images.<\/p>
A DSLR with video capability is an advantage, but often a fast exposure time is sufficient.<\/p>
DSLRs are also great for wide-field views, because you can attach a wide, fast lens (eg f\/2.8).<\/p>
$\"The$
The Milky Way over a lake near Mount Sabalan, Iran, 12 August 2021. Photographed by Parisa Bajelan using a Canon EOS 6D DSLR camera and 16-35 Canon lens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
The benefits of Live View<\/strong><\/h2>
One thing that your DSLR requires is a \u2018Live View\u2019 function. This means that instead of looking through a viewfinder, the image is displayed on its digital screen.<\/p>
This not only helps to line up an image, but means you can achieve sharp focus on stars.<\/p>
In terms of physical characteristics, this is down to individual preference, but we\u2019ve found that an articulated \u2018flip-screen\u2019 can make all types of astro imaging easier.<\/p>
These allow you to view frames from awkward angles, including objects overhead. This combined with a touch-screen LCD is even better, as it helps prevent you from nudging the camera.<\/p>
Two rules that apply for all astrophotography are to shoot in \u2018Manual,\u2019 and in RAW image format, as this enhances image-editing control.<\/p>
We\u2019ll now take a look at what DSLR settings and how to use these to produce spectacular photographs.<\/p>
**DSLR settings explained<\/strong><\/h2>** $\"A$
A DSLR settings screen will include: 1) ISO; 2) Aperture\/f-stop number; 3) Exposure; and 4) White balance (here on auto, \u2018AWB\u2019)<\/figcaption><\/figure>
**ISO<\/strong><\/h3>**ISO<\/a> changes your DSLR\u2019s sensitivity to light and is one of the most important settings to get used to.<\/p>
ISO ranges vary between models. Some go from 100 to 12600 and beyond.<\/p>
The lower the ISO setting, the less sensitive your camera will be to light and vice versa.<\/p>
However, this sensitivity is also dependant on the exposure setting: a camera on a low ISO setting but long exposure will pick up more detail than one on the same ISO setting, but with a shorter exposure time.<\/p>
If using a DSLR to photograph the Moon, which is bright, you don\u2019t want a high ISO as it will wash out the image and mean you lose detail.<\/p>
For Moon images, select your DSLR’s lowest level, ISO 100, from the ISO menu.<\/p>
We don\u2019t tend to use \u2018Auto\u2019 functions in astrophotography, instead opting to manually choose the best setting.<\/p>
$\"The$
The Moon over the High Tatras mountains, Tom\u00e1\u0161 Slovinsk\u00fd, Vlkov\u00e1, Slovakia, 28 January 2021. Equipment: Canon 6D DSLR, TS-Optics 1000mm lens<\/figcaption><\/figure>
Aperture\/f-stop number<\/strong><\/h3>
The f-stop number that your DSLR is set at is another important factor. F-stop affects the depth of field and how \u2018wide open\u2019 your camera aperture is.<\/p>
A low f-stop number means the aperture is wider (and is often referred to as a \u2018fast\u2019 setting): the DSLR will receive more light, but the depth of field in the image is shallow.<\/p>
This isn\u2019t important for lunar imaging, but it becomes apparent in wide-field imaging since a shallow depth of field will affect the focus of the foreground.<\/p>
We don\u2019t want a low f-stop number to image a bright target like the Moon because not only will it allow light to flood the camera sensor, but it will also limit lens performance.<\/p>
Every lens is different, however it\u2019s best to start at f\/7 and work your way upwards to see what produces the best results, stopping when the image looks sharp.<\/p>
Both images of the Moon below are captured at f\/7.1 aperture on a lens of 400mm, f\/5.7 focal length.<\/p>
$\"2$
2 images of the Moon taken at ISO 100 with an aperture of f\/7.1, using exposures of 1\/250 seconds (left) and 1\/400 seconds (right). The Moon looks dull and less detailed in the right-hand image. Credit: Charlotte Daniels<\/figcaption><\/figure>
Exposure<\/strong><\/h3>
Understanding the effect of exposure time is crucial when learning how to use a DSLR camera.<\/p>
Depending on the brightness of the object imaged, a longer exposure usually means more detail.<\/p>
Deep-sky exposures can be up to 15 minutes per frame, though this depends on the camera and its sensor, which can heat up creating image noise.<\/p>
Because the Moon is so bright, exposures of that length long would completely wash out the image, so this type of photography needs shorter frames.<\/p>
You want to set a length that captures the detail in darker regions without overexposing lighter areas.<\/p>
For our lunar image above, we started at 1\/200 seconds and found the image too bright. We then tried 1\/250 and 1\/400 and captured the two images above.<\/p>
1\/400 seconds was a little too fast: the Moon looks dull and less detailed, even after processing.<\/p>
Of all the images taken, a combination of 1\/250 seconds exposure, with an ISO of 100 and and aperture of f\/7.1 proved to be best for the DSLR we used, a Canon EOS 700D.<\/p>
**White balance<\/strong><\/h3>**White balance (WB) is an important factor for daytime photography, but less so for astro imaging because we are shooting in RAW<\/a> image format.<\/p>
We do this to give the most control in post-processing, so the white balance of our image can be adjusted later using photo editing software.For this reason, white balance can be left in \u2018Auto\u2019 mode, or \u2018AWB\u2019.<\/p>
We can recommend Canon\u2019s \u2018Tungsten\u2019 WB setting, however, because it can benefit wide-field images by removing the reddish glow of light pollution<\/a>.<\/p>
A custom white balance may be needed for astro-modified cameras. This is because once the infrared (IR) filter is removed all images have a red hue.<\/p>
This can still be managed in processing, but it\u2019s easier to set up a custom white balance that you can apply from the camera if imaging without filters<\/a>.<\/p>
$\"Fixing$
Fixing noise makes a monumental difference: on the right is the single best frame from a video of Jupiter, on the left the final edit. Credit: Martin Lewis<\/figcaption><\/figure>
Noise reduction<\/strong><\/h3>
A common beginner\u2019s mistake is to have the noise reduction setting switched on for astrophotography, in an effort to remove the noise (unwanted artefacts) from frames.<\/p>
But this setting is counterproductive when imaging at night. If it\u2019s turned on, it effectively takes two photos for every exposure: a normal \u2018light\u2019 frame (which is your regular image), and a \u2018 dark frame<\/a>\u2019 designed to remove noise.<\/p>
The camera then subtracts this dark frame from the light frame, meaning each exposure takes twice as long.<\/p>
It\u2019s best to ensure noise reduction is switched off. On Canon DSLRs, this can be done from the main settings menu.<\/p>
The best way to remove noise is to take \u2018calibration frames\u2019. Dark frames are one type of calibration frame.<\/p>
Creating and applying calibration frames allows you to remove most forms of noise in post-processing. Find out more in our guide to image processing<\/a>, or our detailed guide on how to remove noise in astrophotography<\/a>.<\/p>
**How to use a DSLR camera at night<\/strong><\/h2>** $\"DSLR$
DSLR camera settings buttons. They are similar on most models, but may vary in position. Here the settings are: 1) \u2018Playback\u2019 button; 2) \u2018Q\u2019 button; 3) \u2018Live View\u2019 button; 4) \u2018Zoom\u2019 function<\/figcaption><\/figure>
It\u2019s worth getting to know your DSLR in daylight so that you can locate buttons by feel. On a Canon, well-used buttons include \u2018Playback\u2019, the \u2018Q\u2019 button, and \u2018Live View\u2019 and \u2018Zoom\u2019 functions.<\/p>
The location of these buttons varies between models and knowing them will help you to confidently set up your DSLR after sunset.<\/p>
In our example image above, the \u2018Live View\u2019 (3) and \u2018Zoom\u2019 (4) buttons help us focus, the \u2018Q\u2019 (2) button lets us switch between settings on the LCD display screen and \u2018Playback\u2019 (1) shows our test images.<\/p>
One challenge is focusing your DSLR for sharp stars, and this is where \u2018Live View\u2019 and \u2018Zoom\u2019 buttons are required.<\/p>
Before finding your desired target, use \u2018Live View\u2019 to find a bright star. Vega, (Alpha (\u03b1) Lyrae), Sirius (Alpha (\u03b1) Canis Majoris) and Deneb (Alpha (\u03b1) Cygni) are popular choices.<\/p>
Sirius is a particularly popular choice among many astrophotographers because you can take multiple images to photograph the changing colours of a twinkling star<\/a>.<\/p>
The DSLR\u2019s \u2018Zoom\u2019 buttons allow you to enlarge the star on your LCD screen and ensure your focus is precise.<\/p>
$\"Stars$
Stars Altair and Vega and the Milky Way, captured by S\u00e9rgio Concei\u00e7\u00e3o, Castle of Noudar, Barrancos, Portugal, 3 August 2019. Equipment: Canon EOS R mirrorless camera<\/figcaption><\/figure>
The 500 Rule in astrophotography<\/strong><\/h2>
Imaging deep-sky objects requires far longer exposure times than the Moon, and if you are using a regular tripod the ability to capture the Milky Way or nebulae is limited by star trailing.<\/p>
To keep stars pin-sharp at longer exposures, a tracking mount is needed.<\/p>
The 500 Rule in astrophotography gives a rough maximum exposure time depending on the focal length of the lens you\u2019re using.The wider your field of view, the longer the exposure time you can apply before you begin to get star trails<\/a>.<\/p>
If you are using a full-frame camera you divide 500 by the focal length of your camera lens.<\/p>
For crop sensors you apply the same rule, but multiply the focal length by 1.5 or 1.6 for Nikon and Canon DSLRs respectively.<\/p>
$\"Remember$
Remember the 500 rule when imaging the night sky to avoid star trails. Credit: Peter Brown<\/figcaption><\/figure>
If we are using a 14mm lens to shoot a wide-field image with a full-frame DSLR, we\u2019re limited to a maximum of 36 seconds per frame, but at 200mm this exposure time reduces to 3 seconds.<\/p>
While it\u2019s possible to image the deep sky with a DSLR on a tripod, for the best results you\u2019ll need a tracking mount to keep track of your target as it moves with the rotation of Earth.<\/p>
Without one, exposure times will be limited and the process of aligning and stacking multiple image files is complicated.<\/p>
**For more info, read our guide on using a** star tracker<\/a> mount for astrophotography. Or capture a deep-sky object yourself with our guide on how to photograph the Orion Nebula<\/a> and how to photograph the Andromeda Galaxy<\/a>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>
$\"Avoid$
Avoid noise (unwanted artefacts) in images by keeping ISO settings low. Left: ISO 12800. Right: ISO 1600.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
Signal noise<\/strong><\/h2>
Managing ISO and exposure times is important for deep-sky objects, and both need to be increased for nebulae.<\/p>
The \u2018500 Rule\u2019 gives the longest exposure time on a static tripod and we can increase the ISO to pick up more detail from the exposure.<\/p>
The best ISO performance will vary from model to model, and it\u2019s important to note that too high an exposure time will make the image noisy with a grainy appearance.<\/p>
Find your camera\u2019s \u2018sweet spot\u2019 where you can push the ISO to boost brightness without getting obvious electronic noise.<\/p>
When taking your test images there are times when setting a high ISO has its benefits: we often use ISO 6400 to find and position an object before switching to ISO 800 or 1600 for an imaging run. <\/p>
The process of locating a faint deep-sky object with a DSLR is tricky without a Go-To mount; this will not only do the job for but it will transform your results.<\/p>
*Charlotte Daniels is an amateur astronomer, astrophotographer and journalist. This guide originally appeared in the May 2021 issue of BBC Sky at Night Magazine.<\/em><\/strong><\/p> <\/body><\/html>\n*
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