{"id":25372,"date":"2023-03-09T17:38:25","date_gmt":"2023-03-09T16:38:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbcwildlife\/?post_type=purple_issue&p=25372"},"modified":"2023-03-09T17:38:25","modified_gmt":"2023-03-09T16:38:25","slug":"on-cloud-9","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/bbcwildlife\/2023\/03\/09\/on-cloud-9\/","title":{"rendered":"On cloud 9"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Male resplendent quetzals don\u2019t grow their impressive tail feathers until they are three years old <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

On cloud 9<\/span><\/h2>\n\n

High up in the cloud forests of Guatemala lives the breathtakingly beautiful national bird<\/p>\n\n

Words by BELLA FALK<\/p>\n\n

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Tweet of the Day <\/em>
<\/strong>Miranda Krestovnikoff presents on the quetzal <\/p>\n\n

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Lake Atitl\u00e1n and the spectacular Volc\u00e1n de Atitl\u00e1n behind <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

THE SNEEZE BEGAN AS A TICKLE IN MY RIGHT nostril. It was almost imperceptible, like a mosquito landing lightly on my arm, ready to strike. Or a lone butterfly flapping its wings, producing a breeze that would unfurl into a tornado; a tidal wave of latent energy that demanded to be unleashed.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

Some people can suppress their sneezes delicately into a tissue. But not me. Mine are foghorn blasts that rattle windows and burst eardrums. Which wouldn\u2019t normally have been a problem, except that I was standing in the quiet Guatemalan jungle, and Alfredo Tol Gonzalez, my guide, thought he\u2019d just heard a quetzal. Any noise would scare it away. <\/p>\n\n

I\u2019d staggered out of bed at dawn and hauled my camera gear up the side of a volcano for one reason only: to try to photograph the elusive resplendent quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala and one of six species of quetzal that live in the cloud forests of Central America. This iconic bird, with its iridescent green head and wings, spiky green crest, blood-red breast, and flamboyant twin tail plumes, is like the avian version of a carnival dancer. No visit to Guatemala is complete without seeing one in the flesh.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

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Images of Guatemala\u2019s national bird feature everywhere you go <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

As I travelled around the country, I saw them everywhere. Quetzals woven into scarves and painted on walls. Varnished wooden quetzal toys, quetzal t-shirts, beaded quetzal keyrings. There\u2019s a quetzal on the national flag and on all the banknotes: the currency of Guatemala is called the quetzal. Even Guatemala\u2019s second largest city is called Quetzaltenango: the \u2018place of the quetzal bird\u2019. <\/p>\n\n

But its vivid plumage is not the only reason why the quetzal is Guatemala\u2019s favourite bird. It has also been profoundly intertwined with the country\u2019s history and religion for more than 1,500 years. <\/p>\n\n

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The Guatemalan quetzal currency replaced pesos in the 1920s<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

The ancient Maya saw it as sacred, associated with the snake god Quetzalcoatl. Kings and nobility adorned themselves with headdresses made from quetzal tail feathers, which were highly prized. But they made sure they only took the tail feathers and did not harm the bird \u2013 in fact, killing one was punishable by death. <\/p>\n\n

Legend has it that in the 17th century, when the last Maya warrior went into battle against the Spanish conquistadores, he was accompanied by a spirit protector in the form of a quetzal. When the hero was fatally wounded, his grieving companion flew down and bathed in his blood, permanently turning its breast red in his honour.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

So, after two months in the country, this mythical bird had me under its spell. But souvenirs weren\u2019t enough; I wanted to see the real thing. <\/p>\n\n

Quetzals aren\u2019t easy to spot. They live high up in remote, mountainous cloud forests, where they\u2019re timid and solitary. To find them in Guatemala, you have to go to one of just four protected cloud forest reserves, which means getting up before dawn and hiking for several hours into the jungle. And even then, of course, there are no guarantees. <\/p>\n\n

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Only one per cent of global woodlands is cloud forest <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

The nearest possible location to where I was staying was the Mirador Rey Tepepul Preserve, in the foothills of Volc\u00e1n de Atitl\u00e1n, near the beautiful Lake Atitl\u00e1n. Named after a Maya king, this sacred nature reserve is a verdant expanse of dense cloud forest, home to 300 bird species including several hummingbirds, toucans, motmots and, of course, the iconic quetzal.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

\u201cIt isn\u2019t the season to see quetzals right now,\u201d said Alfredo, as we set off into the jungle together. \u201cThe best time is during nesting season between March and June. Quetzals nest in holes in dead tree trunks, so there\u2019s no foliage to block the view, and they often come back to the same site every year. Both the males and females look after the chicks, so you can see them coming and going. It\u2019s an amazing sight.\u201d <\/p>\n\n

\u201cTo find a quetzal in Guatemala you have to get up before dawn and hike for several hours into the jungle\u201d <\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n

Alfredo pulled out his phone and \u2013 with a \u2018look what you could have won\u2019 flourish \u2013 showed me several stunning photos of parent quetzals diving in and out of an exposed stump, the males with their magnificent metre-long tail feathers flowing behind them like a gymnast\u2019s ribbons. \u201cI took these last month,\u201d he boasted.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

It only made me more desperate to see one for myself. <\/p>\n\n

We followed a narrow path that sloped steeply upwards into the forest, passing lurid purple coleus and spiky Guatemalan Tillandsia, <\/em>damp and vibrant after the previous night\u2019s heavy rain. Alfredo had brought his binoculars and birdwatching telescope, and I was loaded with my camera and a heavy telephoto lens. One glance at my gear told Alfredo that the pressure was on: he knew I\u2019d come all that way to photograph a quetzal, and he was anxious not to disappoint me. <\/p>\n\n

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Bella viewed a northern emerald toucanet \u2013 with the help of a telescope <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

With 10 years of bird-guiding experience, if anyone could find one, it was him. He knew where in the forest the quetzals like to hang out, and which their favourite trees were. Quetzals mostly eat laurel and wild avocado fruit, as well as wasps, insects, frogs and snails. They have their favourite dining spots, and Alfredo knew where they were.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

He had another trick up his sleeve, too. As we progressed deeper into the forest, every so often he\u2019d stop and whistle, mimicking a quetzal mating call. \u201cThis might help attract one,\u201d he said, \u201cbut we shouldn\u2019t do it too much. Male quetzals are territorial. If more than one comes, they might fight, and might get hurt.\u201d As his high-pitched chirrup rang out, he listened hopefully for an answering call. But there was no reply. <\/p>\n\n

We turned downhill into a valley, passing between thickets of flat maxan leaves \u2013 used in Guatemalan cooking to wrap traditional corn tamales \u2013 until we reached a shallow stream, before trudging back up the other side. Every so often, Alfredo paused to listen, or to point out a passing bird: a pair of chicken-sized crested guan high up in a tree, or an emerald-chinned hummingbird zipping past, too quick to photograph. But still no quetzal in sight. <\/p>\n\n

I was busy trying not to slip over when suddenly Alfredo pulled up short. \u201cLook! Over there!\u201d he whispered in excitement. I peered at where he was pointing, but all I could see was green. <\/p>\n\n

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Always one step ahead: nimble and eagle-eyed guide Alfredo <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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Wary crested guans tend to stick together <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

He quickly set up his telescope and used a laser to pinpoint the area. With the naked eye I still had no idea what he was so excited about, but when I looked through the viewfinder, I saw it: a northern emerald toucanet, sitting quietly on a branch. I have absolutely no idea how Alfredo managed to spot this tiny green bird in a vast expanse of green trees from at least 100m away, but that\u2019s the skill of an expert guide. <\/p>\n\n

It’s skill that’s being put to the test more and more as resplendent quetzal numbers decline. There\u2019s no official count, but experts estimate there are only 20-50,000 left in the world, making them Near Threatened.<\/p>\n\n

They fall victim to eagles and hawks, and to squirrels and rats, which climb the trees and raid their nests. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cOne conservation area tried to encourage breeding by creating nesting sites,\u201d Alfredo told me as we walked. \u201cFor a while it worked, but then the new nests started attracting squirrels, which ate the eggs, and now they have fewer quetzals and a squirrel problem.\u201d He shakes his head. \u201cYou shouldn\u2019t mess around with nature.\u201d <\/p>\n\n

But predators are not the only challenge the quetzal faces. The biggest threat to the species is habitat destruction caused by logging and farming. Even in our remote corner of the nature reserve, we passed several groups of workmen and heard frequent chainsaws. It was audible evidence of the quetzal\u2019s home being gradually chipped away.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

It\u2019s something that bird lovers like Alfredo are continually campaigning to prevent. \u201cWe need more support for projects that encourage people to protect the forest and not cut it down,\u201d he said. \u201cBut there is hope. We have some private reserves and protected areas. And more people are starting to come for birdwatching tours, which generate work for local people. In fact, thanks to wildlife tourism, we\u2019ve even found new quetzals we didn\u2019t know about.\u201d <\/p>\n\n

Where were they? After three hours of hiking, my optimism was starting to drain and soon it would be time to start the long walk back to the car. But Alfredo had just one more feeding spot he wanted to try. We trudged up another hill, when suddenly he stopped. Behind him, I stopped, too. <\/p>\n\n

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One of Bella\u2019s three prized shots of the resplendent quetzal <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

\u201cShhh!\u201d he breathed sharply, his eyes gleaming with victory. \u201cDo you hear that? A quetzal!\u201d He peered excitedly into the undergrowth, trying to see. But the foliage was too dense. We needed to get closer. <\/p>\n\n

It was at this point that my sneeze began, a light tingle that quickly built to a crescendo. Terrified of scaring the bird away, I buried my face in my sleeve and tried to muffle the explosion as best I could. If there was a quetzal nearby, I\u2019d just have to hope it wasn\u2019t paying attention. <\/p>\n\n

Alfredo was too distracted to notice. He plunged off the side of the path, slip-sliding downhill between tangled trunks, following the sound. I chased after him, trying to see where he was pointing, and not make any more noise. <\/p>\n\n

Alfredo\u2019s unorthodox shortcut soon brought us to a sunlit, open area that overlooked another cluster of trees. Under his breath, he instructed me to stay in the shadows, to avoid being spotted. Then he raised his binoculars and looked again. <\/p>\n\n

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A female resplendent quetzal (right) with a male juvenile <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

\u201cTerrified of scaring the bird away, I buried my face in my sleeve and tried to muffle my sneeze\u201d <\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n

\u201cI see them! A pair, male and female!\u201d he whispered with delight. \u201cLook! Get your camera ready!\u201d I inched closer to him and peered into the foliage. <\/p>\n\n

And then I saw them: the female perched high up, a less vivid green with a brown breast and belly, and the male, sitting a few branches below. Now that breeding season was over, it had shed its gorgeous tail plumes, but it still looked as resplendent as its name suggests, with its vibrant green feathers iridescent in the sunlight, and its large black eye and cute yellow beak giving it a lively, quizzical expression. <\/p>\n\n

I trained my lens on the male and managed to fire off just three shots, and then they vanished. <\/p>\n\n

It was over in seconds, but it was enough. I\u2019d come to photograph a quetzal, and that\u2019s what I\u2019d done. And when I looked at Alfredo and saw him shining with joy and relief that he\u2019d been able to grant my wish, that was almost as gratifying as the quetzal sighting itself. <\/p>\n\n

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Bella Falk is an award-winning travel writer, photographer, documentary film-maker and blogger from London. She loves an adventure and you can read all about her travels at passportandpixels.com<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n

<\/div>
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OTHER SPECIES TO SEE <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n\n\n
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Jaguarundi <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Guatemala is home to both the jaguar and its smaller cousin, the jaguarundi. This is a wild cat about twice the size of a domestic cat that lives throughout Central and northern South America. Jaguarundis hunt during the day, but are hard to spot as they tend to be on their own. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Guatemalan black howler monkey <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The largest species of howler monkey and native to Central America, the eerie roars of this howler can be heard echoing throughout the Pet\u00e9n region at dawn and dusk, and you\u2019re very likely to spot them leaping through the treetops at Maya sites such as Tikal and Yaxh\u00e1. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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White-nosed coati <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Coatis, which are related to raccoons, are common in Guatemala, especially in the cloud forests and around Maya sites in the Pet\u00e9n. Females and young males hang around in large, noisy bands foraging for insects, snakes, eggs and fruit, while older males tend to be solitary. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ocellated turkey <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Much prettier than a domestic turkey, the ocellated turkey sports a bright blue head and iridescent black, green and bronze plumage. It spends most of its time on the ground searching for beetles, ants and seeds, but it can fly and roosts in the trees at night. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Olive ridley turtle <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The most common sea turtle to visit Guatemala\u2019s Pacific Coast beaches. The beaches around Monterrico host a phenomenon called the arribada <\/em>(arrival), where tens of thousands of olive ridleys turn up at the same time to nest and lay eggs. <\/p>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n

OTHER QUETZAL HOTSPOTS <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n
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Sierra de las Minas is in eastern Guatemala <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
El Refugio del Quetzal <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

A small cloud forest reserve near the town of San Marcos, about two hours\u2019 drive west of Guatemala\u2019s second largest city, Quetzaltenango. It has a few wellmarked trails and is dotted with small springs and waterfalls. <\/p>\n\n

Biotopo Mario Dary Rivera <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Mario Dary was an environmentalist who campaigned to create safe habitats for the quetzal in the face of opposition from logging companies. The 1,000ha reserve named after him is located about three hours north of Guatemala City and contains two well-marked nature trails. <\/p>\n\n

Sierra de las Minas Biosphere Reserve <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

This vast mountain range contains roughly 60 per cent of the remaining cloud forest in Guatemala and is the world\u2019s largest quetzal habitat. However, it\u2019s also off the beaten tourist trail and a guide is essential. <\/p>\n\n

PHOTOS: ONDREJ PROSICKY\/ALAMY, BELLA FALK; JAGUARUNDI: ALAMY; HOWLER & COATI: BELLA FALK; TURKEY: EDWIN REMSBERG\/ALAMY; TURTLE: SOLVIN ZANKL\/NPL\/ALAMY; LANDSCAPE: JOHAN ORDONEZ\/AFP\/GETTY; QUETZALS: BIRDING ATITLAN EXPEDITIONS (X2)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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