DESTINATION
Northumberland
The sparse, rolling, rugged lands of the far northeast offer very distinctive cycling experiences. The Coast and Castles route is a touring favourite, being as flat(-ish) and scenic as the title suggests, and includes the remarkable causeway crossing to Lindisfarne that’s submerged by the tide twice a day. (The mainland entrance as the waters come in is the place for amazing, but safe, Instagram shots of ‘cycling on water’.) And Northumberland has the best bits of the Hadrian’s Cycleway too, another easy-ish touring route through robustly characterful towns past the most photogenic stretches of the wall.
It’s farther inland, though, amid the glowering humps of the Cheviots, where the biking action really starts. Head west from Alnwick to Rothbury and then to the head of the Coquet Valley, an underhyped gem. Large town is followed by small town, then villages, then hamlets, then isolated farmhouses, as the riverside lane manœuvres through the enveloping hills. It’s England, but more remote than most ever experience.
After the head of the Coquet, you can continue southwest to Blakehopeburnhaugh (next to Cottonshopeburnfoot). A twelve mile track goes to Kielder Water, a nexus for forest-y and reservoir-y gravel routes.
For a few days a month the Otterburn Ranges, a large MoD area west of the Coquet, drops the keepout red flags and lets in road cyclists. Base yourself in Alwinton or Harbottle on the upper Coquet (their pubs are the only services for miles) and ride a 30-mile or more circuit through vast, empty, untrafficked moors and hills unlike anything else in England. They may not be in road atlases or on Google Street View, but they’re good, straightish tarmac military ways (one being Dere St, the old Roman Road to the North) with great sightlines for downhill joy.
Big dates
For access to Otterburn Ranges, look for ‘No Firing’ days on the MoD lists – search for ‘Otterburn Ranges firing times’. Weekends (especially Bank Holidays), and lambing season (mid- April to mid-May) are the best bets. In firing times, you’re restricted to the road up to the head of the Coquet Valley, and the lane from there southwest to join the horrible A68.
Don’t miss
The causeway to Lindisfarne; castles (Alnwick, Bamburgh, Dunstanburgh, Warkworth, etc); Hadrian’s Wall at Once Brewed, and Roman museums; forested gravel loops round Kielder Water; the wonderful secondhand bookshop ‘cathedral’ of Barter Books, Alnwick, where the ‘Keep Calm and Carry On’ propaganda poster, which was never officially used during the Second World War, was rediscovered more than 50 years years later.
Travel
Take the train up or down the East Coast Main Line to Alnmouth (make sure you book bike spaces ahead). Visitable, stayable Alnwick is nearby. Pick up the Coquet Valley at pleasant Rothbury, or at Alwinton via Whittingham. Alnmouth to Alwinton is about a 35 mile, scenic, ride. E-bike hire is available in Alnwick (see bike shop info, right).
Accommodation
Semi-wild campsite (‘Nightfold’) is at Barrowburn Farm (£10pp per night), or there are other campsites nearby. There’s pub accommodation at Alwinton and Harbottle. For more options, Rothbury is the nearest town while Alnwick is the nearest big town.
Tourist information
Head to visitnorthumberland.com for more information.
The Route
● Anarrow valley bottom lane winds northwest from Alwinton, hugging the Coquet. Passing only isolated farmhouses, you climb steadily out of Fulhope to a lofty old Roman Camp and join Dere St, the old Roman Road, for moortop panoramas (check out Ridlees Cairn). Easy climbs and good downhills, especially back to the public road at Holystone. And all decent tarmac.
01 Bike shop
The Bike Shop, Alnwick (NE66 2PF, thebikeshopalnwick.co.uk, closed Sun) is a small but well stocked shop on the edge of town: good, experienced, friendly. Roadside assistance/rescue too! (07599 350000).
02 Lunch stop
Cragside, Rothbury (NE65 7PX, nationaltrust.org.uk/cragside) is a splendid National Trust house just outside town with courtyard cafe and picnic tables overlooking a lake.
03 Photo op
The Coquet Valley, plus good shots around Barrowburn.
Distance 48km/30 miles
Elevation 640m/ 2,100ft
Download komoot.com/tour/890699213
