Pressure needed

Not many people really need a pump that goes to 260psi and even a committed mountain biker probably won’t need above 40psi. A higher-pressure pump is often a trade-off for volume output, or at least gauge accuracy. Because of this, brands such as Lezyne offer pump models specific to road or mountain biking.

Volume needed

Much like pressure, this will depend on your main bike choice. A high-volume pump will mean it takes fewer strokes to reach your desired pressure, but in turn, will generally mean a lower maximum pressure.

As mountain bike tyres have far greater volume (and lower pressure), a large-volume pump is more important here. If you have tubeless tyres, a pump with a massive volume output may be enough to seat a tyre without needing an air compressor.

Gauge accuracy

Few hand pumps include a gauge, but any decent track pump should.

Look for a gauge that’s easy to read and offers a suitable pressure range for your needs. Gauges are generally most accurate at the middle of the range, so if you’re trying to accurately inflate your mountain bike tyre between 23 and 25psi you’ll need a gauge with a low-pressure accuracy (or just a separate pressure gauge).

A pump with a digital gauge is also an option if you’re looking at more expensive options.

Pump heads and valve types

Presta (racing style) and Schrader (like on a car) are two of the most common valve types. Nearly all pumps these days will cater for at least Presta and Schrader, but not all are as simple as others.

Some pumps are valve-specific, others must be changed internally to fit various valves. A twin-valve head will have two separate slots for either valve, while a ‘smart-head’ will automatically adjust to the various valve sizes. Then there’s the thread-on style, which offers a reliable fit, but needs to be ‘flipped and changed’ depending on your desired valve.

If you use tubes or tubeless valves with a removable core, just be aware that some thread-on pump heads can unscrew the valve once inflated. For this style of valve, more common press-on style heads are best.

If you run tubeless tyres, check out our list of the best tubeless pumps and inflators.

Size

If your pump is going to stay at home, size isn’t going to be of great concern. But if you’re planning to carry your pump on a ride or take it in the car, then it’s an important factor in your decision. The smallest mini-pumps will eventually inflate a tyre, but are obviously limited on air volume.

Weight

Much like size, weight isn’t a concern if the pump is going to be left at home, and here, a sturdy pump that doesn’t topple over is a bonus. But if you’re looking to carry it with you, then you don’t want anything too heavy.

The most expensive pumps are now made with lightweight aluminium, but there are plenty of plastic options, which are perfectly acceptable too. Don’t trade low-weight for something that’s just not suited to your needs, but at the same time, there’s no point carrying extra weight if you don’t have to.

Construction

The quality of a pump’s construction is often in line with its price, and generally speaking the more expensive the pump, the more metal it contains.

For track pumps, the cheapest options are plastic and will flex and wobble under heavy use, eventually giving up. The metal ones are far more solid, keep going and are well worth rebuilding.

Serviceability

Serviceability generally applies to the more expensive pumps, which can be seen as a long-term investment.

Most main brands will offer a range of common spares to keep your pumps working. The most important spares are the head and valve gaskets because these will wear and begin to leak over time.

Don’t buy an expensive pump if spares are not readily available.