How we test mountain bikes

We’ve been testing mountain bikes for well over a decade, and have tracked major developments in mountain bike tech, from the widespread adoption of the dropper post through to electronic suspension.

We’ve tested all the major mountain bikes since our inception in 2007, from cross-country bikes to downhill bikes and budget rides to pro-level superbikes.

Working with our colleagues at MBUK magazine, our bike reviews are always editorially independent – with no exceptions. Our reviewers comprehensively test each bike, always reflecting on performance, value and the wider market when delivering their verdict.

Buyer’s guide to mountain bikes

Choosing a new mountain bike to buy can be daunting. The sheer variety of mountain bike types, not to mention the bewildering array of technology and terminology, may feel overwhelming.

Technology evolves every year, new mountain bike standards emerge and old ones swiftly become outdated. An ever-growing dictionary of jargon means the mountain bike market can be a confusing place, even for seasoned riders.

Highly specialised bikes sit side-by-side with machines that claim to excel at everything. And they’re all spread over such a vast price range that it can be hard to know where to start.

This guide sets out all the factors you should consider when looking for a new ride.

Where do you want to ride?

It’s important to establish early on what sort of trails you intend to ride and on what terrain you want your bike to excel.

This will help you decide what category of bike you need, from short-travel, lightweight cross-country rigs to robust, chunky downhill race bikes.

The different types of mountain bike

There are four main categories of mountain bikes, with each having its own intended discipline.

Cross-country bikes

Cross-country bikes usually feature 60-120mm of suspension travel and are designed for smooth and fast-flowing trails, as well as competing on the race circuit.

These bikes tend to feature svelte framesets that reduce weight, making them excel at climbing and rapid acceleration.

Downcountry has emerged as a subdiscipline that sits at the more aggressive end of cross-country, with downcountry bikes featuring beefier components to tackle heavier trail use.

Trail bikes

Trail bikes are what the majority of people ride, with suspension travel ranging from 120-160mm.

These bikes are designed to get you up to the top of a trail with relative efficiency, while providing good capability on the way back down.

They aren’t quite as hard-hitting as enduro bikes, but this trade-off is often made in the interest of weight savings.

Enduro bikes

Enduro bikes provide downhill bike capability, while enabling you to winch yourself to the top of the trail.

With travel that can range from 160mm to 190mm, these bikes eat up descents, providing plenty of gravity-fuelled fun.

Due to their added strength and capability, they aren’t as efficient as trail bikes, though low gearing should get you up the same climbs.

Downhill bikes

Downhill bikes are focused solely on descending, with travel that is usually 200mm or more.

These bikes are often used at bike parks because their gearing means it’s near-impossible to ride back to the top of the trail, making a chairlift or ca lift necessary.

Thanks to their speciality, there is no comprise in the geometry for climbing ability, making them the fastest and most stable bikes to descend on.

What to look for in a mountain bike

Suspension

Less suspension travel usually means a lighter, faster bike uphill.

More travel equals better downhill capability. If you’re new to the sport and want to try a bit of everything, a mid-travel trail bike is the best all-rounder.

Mountain bike suspension usually comes in two flavours, coil and air, with the former offering greater sensitivity at the cost of extra weight and the latter providing more adjustability.

We have answered the question of how much suspension travel you need elsewhere, but if you’re just getting started it’s best to go for a mid-travel bike to suss out the riding you prefer.

Geometry

The geometry of a mountain bike is largely dictated by which discipline it’s made for, whether that’s a fast and responsive cross-country bike, a slack downhill race rig for gnarly trails or anything in between.

For the sake of simplicity, we won’t go into the specifics of geometry here – it’s another complex area of mountain bike tech.

However, you can check out our ultimate guide to bike geometry if you want to learn more.

Wheel size

For a long time, 26in mountain bike wheels were the standard, but with the exception of dirt-jump and slopestyle bikes, they’ve been phased out in favour of larger, faster-rolling hoops.

Any new adult bike will likely come with either 27.5in (also known as 650b) or 29in-diameter wheels.

29er wheels have the advantages of carrying momentum better, rolling over obstacles more easily and providing more traction (due to the longer contact patch of their tyres).

The disadvantages are that the bigger wheels accelerate slower, take more effort to slow down and are harder to initiate a turn with.

This isn’t a problem in most scenarios, but if you have quite a dynamic riding style or like to ride trails that are tight, twisting and steep, 650b can be preferable.

Mullet bikes use different-sized wheels at either end of the bike, most commonly a 29in front wheel for speed and rolling over obstacles and a 27.5in back wheel for sharp handling at the rear.

Frame material

You have four main options when it comes to frame material for bikes: aluminium, steel, titanium and carbon fibre.

Aluminium is the most commonly used frame material for mountain bikes because it offers a good balance of strength, weight and cost.

Steel is a popular choice with smaller boutique brands, not only because it’s widely available and easy to work with, but also because the same strength can be achieved with thinner-walled and smaller-diameter tubes, resulting in a desirable amount of bump-absorbing ‘compliance’ (flex). This is particularly applicable to hardtails.

Titanium does the same with less of a weight penalty, but expect to pay upwards of £2,000 for a titanium frame.

Carbon has long been one of the buzzwords used to ‘upsell’ to bike buyers. To some extent, this is justified, because carbon fibre gives designers near-limitless control over frame shapes and ride characteristics, as well as the potential to build an incredibly light and strong chassis. This is important if you’re choosing a featherweight XC race bike.

Cheaper carbon frames aren’t necessarily laid up with the same care and attention to detail, though. Also, be aware that at lower price points, brands will often spec cheaper build kits to prevent the complete bike looking too expensive compared to the next (aluminium) model down.

A better-specced aluminium bike will almost always ride better than a carbon frame decked out with cheap kit.

Mountain bike specifications to consider

• Dropper posts: Many mountain bikes now come with dropper posts. These enable you to drop your saddle via a remote on the handlebar so you can more easily move your weight around your bike.
• Wheels: Lightweight mountain bike wheels will make acceleration easier, while heavier ones will tend to fend off rock strikes more easily. Wheels are often something riders look to upgrade on a bike.
• Disc brakes: Most mountain bikes will feature disc brakes, with the better ones using a hydraulic system as opposed to cable-actuated. Two-piston designs are usually enough for trail use, but it’s best to look at four-piston models for enduro and downhill.
• Pedals: Many mountain bikes won’t be supplied with pedals, so it’s best to pick your own. Clipless pedals keep your feet attached to the bike using a locking mechanism, increasing efficiency and guaranteeing foot placement, while flat pedals enable you to easily remove your foot and are good for learning the basic skills.
• Tyres: This is one of the most important parts of the bike, being the only component that should make contact with the ground. Lighter tyres will feel zippier when accelerating, though this usually comes at the cost of puncture protection.

Women’s mountain bikes

Some brands offer women’s specific mountain bikes, such as Giant’s Liv and Scott’s Contessa range.

These bikes usually feature geometries and component choices that are designed for the female anatomy and should, in theory, result in a more comfortable ride than on unisex bikes.

Finding the right-size mountain bike

Getting a bike that fits you properly is extremely important. Not only will it ensure you’re more comfortable on the bike, but you’ll also be able to ride the bike to your maximum potential.

Our guide to mountain bike sizing is a good starting point – but remember, geometry and sizing aren’t consistent between brands, so always make sure to check the measurements. Don’t be tempted to compromise on fit.

If it isn’t quite right for you – the top tube’s a little short or you can’t get the seat low enough, for example – it’ll affect your fun far more than a fancy paintjob and a posh suspension fork. Riding the correct-size bike will also help you position your body on technical terrain.

If this is your first new bike in a while, it might surprise you how much longer they’ve got in recent years. This isn’t because we’ve all suddenly got taller, but because designers have figured out that stretched-out bikes with slacker head angles handle better at speed.

Any initial awkwardness you may feel when trying to manoeuvre a bigger bike around will soon disappear (assuming it’s the right size for you) and you’ll wonder how you ever managed on that cramped little bike you had before.

Traditionally, bikes were sized by seat-tube length. This is still an important factor, because you need to make sure you can get the saddle to an efficient height for pedalling, as well as drop it out of the way for descending.

However, the advent of long-travel dropper seatposts has permitted bike designers to reduce seat-tube lengths. As well as giving more freedom of movement, this enables riders to ‘upsize’ to a larger frame if they want more length, or vice versa.

Perhaps the most important metric when it comes to how big a bike will feel to ride is its ‘reach’ – the horizontal distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the top of the head tube. This measurement gives a good indication of how stretched out you’ll feel when standing on the pedals.

From surveying our team of MBUK and BikeRadar testers, we found the interesting correlation that our ideal reach in millimetres was consistently between 2.6 and 2.7 times our height in centimetres. This calculation should give you a good starting point.

It’s often best to head down to your local bike shop to try the bike you’re looking at in person. If possible, try to arrange a test ride so you can see how the bike feels on the trail. Many brands have demo days, where they bring their entire range along for potential customers to try.

As a general rule, if you’re after a high-end bike, many shops will be happy to tweak certain components such as the saddle, tyres or grips to the ones you prefer if it means they can seal a deal.

With online or direct-sales bike shops, you don’t get the option to try before you buy, but most have a robust returns policy if you decide you’re not happy with the fit of your new machine.

Still haven’t found what you’re after?

Here are our top-rated mountain bikes by price range:

• Best mountain bikes under £500 / $600
• Best mountain bikes under £750 / $800
• Best mountain bikes for around £1,000 / $1,000
• Best mountain bikes under £2,000 / $2,000
• Best mountain bikes under £3,000 / $3,500

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