Disc brake pads are a consumable component on your bike, and it goes without saying it’s important to keep them in good condition.
If you want to know more about pads specifically, including the best material to choose, we’ve got a separate buyer’s guide to disc brake pads .
VIDEOThe following steps apply to disc brakes on road, gravel, hybrid and mountain bikes.
Although we’re working with a SRAM brake in this guide, the process is almost identical for brakes from Shimano, Campagnolo and other large manufacturers.
Tools required to change disc brake pads
Other than a piston press, which isn’t essential, you won’t need any specialist tools. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Replacement disc brake pads
Lint-free rag/paper cloth
Appropriately sized hex key/flathead screwdriver
Needlenose pliers
Piston press or plastic tyre lever
Disc brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol
Nitrile gloves
Vernier calipers to measure the remaining pad material (optional but not essential)
Step 1
With the wheel removed, you get a better idea of how much meat is left on your pads. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Remove the wheel from the bike.
If you’re just looking to check the brake pads for wear, removing the wheel exposes the pads in the caliper so you can get a visual indicator of how much life is left on them. It can be helpful to use a flashlight.
Get into the habit of checking your pads regularly. Steve Sayers / Our Media
It’s important to check the pads regularly – if they wear down to the backing plate, the metal-on-metal contact of the pad backing plate will destroy the disc brake rotors very quickly.
If you’re not sure if the pads need replacing, it’s worth continuing to remove them so you can measure their thickness.
Never let your brake pads wear down to the bare metal. Ben Delaney / Immediate Media
Avoid actuating the brake lever at this stage. If you’re not careful, squeezing the brake lever after you’ve removed the disc rotors can force the pistons beyond their limits and compromise the hydraulic system, forcing you to need to bleed the brake .
Step 2
A plastic tyre lever makes for a good piston press substitute. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Before removing the disc brake pads, now is your opportunity to push the pistons back into the bores of the caliper. If you don’t own a dedicated piston press, use a plastic tyre lever. If you’re using a piston press that requires the pads to be removed, skip to Step 3.
It’s better to do this now rather than with the new pads installed to avoid damaging them – given we’re performing this procedure to replace the pads, it doesn’t matter if we damage the old ones.
Gently push the old pads into the caliper until you cannot see any exposed piston.
Step 3
Remove the e-clip with needlenose pliers. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Remove the brake pads.
Most disc brake pads use an e-clip (a small metal disc that clips onto the end of the retaining bolt) to act as a failsafe if the retaining pin loosens. You’ll need to remove this, either by hand or with needlenose pliers.
These SRAM Force pads are held in place with a 2.5mm head bolt. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Some older Shimano brakes use a split pin, where you’ll need to bend the ends straight first with needlenose pliers before it can be removed.
You can then remove the pad-retaining pin, which will typically require a 2.5/3mm hex key or a flathead screwdriver.
It’s a good idea to keep everything together in one place. Steve Sayers / Our Media
The pads will then remove from either the top of the caliper or the bottom, depending on the model.
Most brake pads are held together by a spring, although Campagnolo and Magura models use magnets.
Step 4
These SRAM Force pads are fine to reuse. Steve Sayers / Our Media
If you’re not sure whether your pads are worn, you can measure the remaining pad material with a vernier caliper.
Shimano advises replacing the pads when there is less than 0.9mm of braking material left, whereas SRAM says the pad should measure 2.5mm, including the backing plate.
Campagnolo incorporates a wear groove into its pads, which when worn away, indicates they are ready for replacement.
Never touch a disc brake pad with your bare skin – even the oils in your skin can contaminate the pad. Steve Sayers / Our Media
It’s best to check both pads in case they have worn unevenly; you should go with the lower measurement.
Step 5
Give the caliper a good clean with disc brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Before installing the pads back into the caliper, clean the brake caliper thoroughly using disc brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol.
Now’s also the time to push the pistons back if you’re using a dedicated piston press.
You’ll need to make sure the pistons are pushed back into the bores of the caliper before installing the new pads. Steve Sayers / Our Media
This SRAM Ultimate Universal Piston Press tool expands via a hex key kitting as it gently pushes the pistons back in. Steve Sayers / Our Media
This is how the pistons in the caliper should look. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Make sure you also clean the disc brake rotor thoroughly because if it’s contaminated with oils or grease, this will transfer to the new pads – an expensive mistake.
If you’re changing pad material (ie, switching from resin to sintered pads), it’s recommended you also replace the disc brake rotor. However, provided you clean the rotor thoroughly, you are unlikely to have any issues.
Step 6
Reinstall the pads. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Install the new pads into the caliper (making sure they’re the right way around because some pads are left/right-specific), along with the retaining pin and relevant clips. Make sure you avoid squeezing the brake lever.
You may need to re-align the brake. Steve Sayers / Our Media
Reinstall the wheel into the bike. You may need to align the brake.
Once aligned, bed in the new disc brake pads in a safe, car-free environment to enable optimal performance.