Rob Ainsley, author of 50 Quirky Bike Rides, selects his favourite places to have a unique two-wheeled experience

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Published: Saturday, 05 October 2024 at 09:00 AM


I’ve always been fascinated by the quirky, the unique, the extreme… especially if I can cycle to it.

Perhaps it’s a consequence of growing up in a house whose only books were the AA Road Atlas and the Guinness Book of Records.

I’ve been collecting weird places to ride ever since.

Netherton Tunnel, in the West Midlands, for instance: a mile-and-a-half-long canal tunnel that’s a psychological challenge rather than physical – the ghostly acoustic and pitch dark makes it one of Britain’s scariest rides.

Or the vertiginous aqueduct at Pontcysyllte outside Llangollen that’s like cycling a Niagara Falls tightrope: no wonder they ask you to dismount.

Or Blackbushe Airfield in Surrey, whose disused runways make the widest ‘cycle paths’ you’ll see in Britain.

Or Yate’s ‘Road to Nowhere’ near Bristol: a 1970s dual carriageway that somehow never got properly connected to the road network, and is now used as a film set, making a strange all-to-yourself cycle experience.

And many others: Yorkshire’s Spurn Head, a three-mile spit of sand sometimes barely wider than the tarmac track that goes way out into the North Sea.

An underpass on NCN1 in the Lee Valley that could be Britain’s lowest headroom, just five feet: duck or grouse.

Church Lane, a cobbled street in Whitby that rises at 50 per cent – yes, 1 in 2. The lonely road to Loch Hourn on Scotland’s west coast, Britain’s longest cul-de-sac at 22 miles… my list goes on.

So, here are 10 of my favourites. They offer not only Instagram amusement, but also the basis of some super rides.

Holy Island: Beal, Northumbria

Time your cycle carefully to avoid having to take shelter in the emergency hut. Andy McCandlish / Our Media

Sometimes the waves rule Britannia. Lindisfarne, aka Holy Island, is connected to the mainland by a mile-long causeway that gets inundated by the tide twice a day.

Riding across it in the dry is a thrill; safe crossing times are posted up on-site and online. But time it right on an incoming tide (check very carefully) and you can enjoy the nearest thing to cycling on water.

Because immediately off the mainland, the road dips and is the first bit to be submerged by the tide.

As the tide laps its way surprisingly quickly over the tarmac, you can ride around on top of it, aquaplaning on the water, and getting back to safe, adjacent dry land well before your bottom bracket, or indeed longevity, is threatened. At low tide, explore the road and island at ease.

Perhaps even have a look at the wooden emergency shelter, and marvel at the drivers who push their luck too far and end up stranded in here for hours with nothing to do but watch their car float into the North Sea.

National Cycle Route 1 passes here, and the whole Northumbrian coast is grandly scenic.

Coming by train? Beal station is only a mile from the causeway, and characterful Berwick is only a handful of miles away.

The Magic Roundabout: Swindon, Wiltshire

Magic Roundabout signpost: Swindon, Wiltshire
This famous feat of road planning is not quite as much fun as its TV-show namesake was. Rob Ainsley / Our Media

The nickname of Britain’s most notorious road roundabout came from a 1960s children’s animation.

It stuck, and the signs now officially identify it as ‘The Magic Roundabout’.

It’s hardly ‘enchanting’, though: a central roundabout surrounded by five mini roundabouts, sun-and-planets style, with plenty of scope for going round in unintended circles only to get back where you started.

Despite its reputation, it has been in place unchanged for over 50 years.

Engineer Frank Blackmore dreamed up the layout in 1972 as a way to intermesh several busy feeder roads, and it’s said to have an excellent safety record – perhaps because traffic moves so uncertainly and slowly that collisions are unlikely.

Nevertheless, if you’re cycling it – en route to Uffington’s White Horse, the Ridgeway, or just the adjacent local bike shop – it may be best to avoid rush hour.

Britain offers plenty of other junction sorcery, but Swindon’s is the original and best.

Electric Brae: Croy Brae, Ayrshire

Electric Hill: Croy Brae, Ayrshire
Head to Electric Brae to experience a strange optical illusion. Rob Ainsley / Our Media

Of course you’re not actually freewheeling uphill. But the optical illusion formed by a chance combination of landscape contours at Croy Brae, on the A719 a few miles south of Ayr on Scotland’s south-west coast, is a powerful one.

The road seems to descend into a wood, but the gradient in fact goes the other way.

Stop at the lay-by (marked helpfully with an explanatory stone), sit on your bike, and lift your feet off the pedals.

Slowly but surely you start to move away from that wood ‘below you’, as your bike glides by itself what absolutely, unsettlingly, feels like uphill.

There are many such illusions in Britain and the world, sometimes dubbed ‘magnetic hills’. But Croy Brae – aka Electric Brae – is one of the best known.

Curiously, the effect is so specific, it’s limited to eye level: stoop down and normal perception is restored. The unbiased view of the camera often rebalances the spirit level, too.

Serpentine Road: Rothesay, Isle of Bute

Serpentine Road: Rothesay, Isle of Bute
Practise your cornering skills by snaking down the 14 hairpin bends of this island road. Rob Ainsley / Our Media

No pass in Britain can remotely match Stelvio in Italy, with its 70 hairpins.

But this edge-of-town road requires 14 in its short, steep climb east from the pleasant harbour of Rothesay, the ‘capital’ of Scotland’s west-coast island of Bute (which was labelled the ‘Best Place to Live in Scotland’ by The Times in 2022 and takes only 90 minutes to get to from Glasgow).

The climb’s not fringed by mountains – more like parked 4x4s and suburban villas – but it’s a fun little experience.

And it’s worth the trip: the cycling hereabouts, especially alongside the remote sea lochs of the Kyles of Bute, is all spectacular, with plenty of opportunities for island- and peninsula-hopping.

You’ll quickly become familiar with Cal Mac’s ferry timetables, and their Gourock–Dunoon or Wemyss Bay–Rothesay services, for instance, make getting here from Glasgow straightforward.

Drink in the scenery. And if you’re drinking in anything else, enjoy another of Bute’s curios: the lavish and ornate public toilets, unchanged since Victorian times, are a candidate for Britain’s most elegant.

Great Dun Fell: Knock, Cumbria

Two cyclists riding the Great Dun Fell: Knock, Cumbria
Enjoy a car-free ascent up Britain’s highest road – and the long whizz back down again. Henry Iddon / Our Media

Britain’s highest road is, intriguingly, open to bikes but closed to cars.

The tarmac cul-de-sac winds its way five miles up into the Pennine Hills from Knock, near Appleby-in-Westmorland, to the Air Traffic Control radar station on the top of 847m-high Great Dun Fell.

Motor traffic needs a permit to use it, but – being a bridleway – you can cycle it (whatever the home-made signs on the way up try to tell you).

It’s a hugely scenic ride up to the giant summit golfball, and the nearest we have to a ‘British Ventoux’. (Scotland’s similar ascent to Lowther Hill radar station near Wanlockhead runs a close second.)

Rough-stuff bridleways continue at the top, so road cyclists just turn round and freewheel down the 10 or so miles back to Appleby.

There’s plenty of big cycling round here: England’s highest six road passes are next door in Teesdale, the C2C’s Coast-to-Coast classic is just to the north, and the Yorkshire Dales are only a few miles away to the southeast.

Cape Wrath: Durness, NW Scotland

Cape Wrath: Durness, NW Scotland
Make sure you go prepared when heading to the lonely, remote Cape Wrath lighthouse. Rob Ainsley / Our Media

This is as far-flung as Britain can fling you. Up at Scotland’s far northwestern corner, in a vast area of virtually zero habitation, is the iconic Cape Wrath lighthouse.

First, you have to get to Durness, an adventure in itself: either an epic drive or a day’s isolated, spectacular riding from Lairg train station (the tiny place is also a stop on the North Coast 500 route).

From Durness, you and bike take a tiny boat across the estuary, after which it’s a stony 11-mile track across wild hills with coastline views that eventually stumbles across the lighthouse.

This is not a place to hitch a lift: vehicles are there none, apart from the rare ranger’s 4×4 or ferry minibus.

Potentially friendly conditions for hedgehogs, then… except for the absence of hedges, or indeed anything else. This is sparse, inhospitable terrain.

At least there’s the lighthouse cafe, which claims to be open 24/7 (presumably it can be left open but unstaffed fairly safely).

If you’re cycling here, good ideas include checking the weather forecast, taking tools, warm clothes and provisions – and not missing your boat back.

Disappearing Roads: East Yorkshire coast

Disappearing Roads: East Yorkshire coast
You may come across signs like this if you cycle in Holderness. Rob Ainsley / Our Media

Holderness, the vast fertile plain north-east of Hull, has the unwanted title of Europe’s fastest-eroding coast.

The fragile cliffs between Bridlington and Withernsea are being gobbled up by North Sea tides at a rate of several yards a year.

Since Roman times, miles have gone west, or rather, east. Even roads I remember cycling as a teen are long gone.

In places such as Ulrome, Skipsea, Aldborough and Great Cowden, lanes end abruptly at a cliff edge, cordoned off by concrete blocks and signs that get wearily moved even further inland every few years.

Many caravan parks, farms and houses face brief futures. It’s an eerie place to cycle around.

Get here by riding the oaky-ish rail-trail from Hull to Hornsea (the final leg of the Trans Pennine Trail), and maybe continue south to the end of Spurn Point (which involves a half-mile push across a sandy beach: it’s transitioning to an island), itself one of Britain’s most bizarre bike rides.