Although top tube length will give a good indication of how a bike will feel when you’re seated, the reach figure is most relevant for when you’re standing up and is particularly pertinent to descending, but also helps contribute to the feel of a bike’s size.

A cross-country rider may prefer a long, stretched-out position, but a beginner who has never taken a bike off-road may want to be more upright for extra comfort, with less weight on their hands and wrists.

Your reach is often a compromise between comfort, control and pedalling efficiency.

Find what works best for you, but avoid being too hunched or too stretched out, since this can cause discomfort and back problems.

Seat angle and effective top tube length

The cranks (or bottom bracket) are never situated directly below the saddle, and for good reason. If they were, you’d be placing excessive weight on your arms to support your upper body when you lean forward.

Thus the seat tube lies at an angle, which determines how far behind the bottom bracket the saddle will be and how you’re balanced when seated.

Too much can be counterproductive, but luckily the range of angles is usually quite narrow so this measurement isn’t normally that important.

If we take two bikes with the same ETT length but different seat tube angles, the slacker-angled machine will have a bottom bracket that’s further forward in relation to your saddle and vice versa.

The upshot of this is that you can have two bikes with the same reach that handle differently, due to how they distribute your weight.

One of the biggest mistakes made by beginners is to slide the saddle too far back. While it may be psychologically reassuring to sit well back from the ‘attacking terrain’ position, too little weight on the front of the bike can make the steering feel vague and stop your suspension fork from compressing efficiently.

Sit further forward and you’ll get maximum use of the fork, full use of the front tyre tread and the bike will handle better.

This is all assuming that the reach is correct for you. As a general rule of thumb, if you drop a plumb line from the centre of the saddle it should cross the chainstays almost exactly halfway between the bottom bracket axle and the rear wheel axle.

Foot position and cleats

The best mountain bike pedals can be flat or clipless. With flat or platform pedals, the ball of the foot usually drops into a comfortable position above the pedal axle.

However, clipless pedals can be more problematic to get right, so it’s essential to know how to set up clipless pedal cleats. A good place to start is to find the ball of your foot and place the cleat directly underneath.

Once you’ve found this spot, adjust back and forth – minor changes can affect which muscles are utilised and how effectively you pedal.

See what works best for you. Lateral positioning is a personal preference: a narrower stance can improve efficiency, but be careful that your shoes don’t hit the cranks during the pedal revolution.

The angle of the cleats should match the natural angle of your feet, which you can see easily if you use flat pedals.

Many of the latest clipless pedals have built-in float, which helps your foot achieve a natural angle and is a good option if you’re unsure what’s right for you.

Experiment with the final setup; once you have this sorted, the pedal stroke will feel fluid with no twisting of the ankles, knees or hips.

This can take a few rides, but is worth persevering with – when you hit that sweet spot, draw a line around the cleats for reference when they need replacing.

Women’s-specific mountain bike fit and size

A recent development in the world of mountain biking has been the introduction of women’s bike sizes and gender-specific geometry.

Because women typically have different dimensions to men for a given height, the profile of some of the best women’s bikes has been altered to give a better fit. Some brands have designed their bikes specifically for women based on body geometry data and rider feedback.

Look closely, however, and you’ll see that some brands use exactly the same frames as the men’s/unisex equivalent with just touches, such as the finishing kit, tailored for female riders.

Any one particular model won’t suit all women and some riders will find that a unisex bike is a better fit.

Most have several things in common, such as thinner grips, lighter sprung forks, women’s saddles and narrower bars. But it isn’t just the ladies who can benefit, men can also take advantage of this thinking and should check them out if they have small hands or narrow shoulders, for example.

Kids’-specific mountain bike fit and size

Many of the same rules apply for the young ’uns, whatever their age, but there are also a few extra considerations to be aware of.

The best kids’ bikes are usually sized by their wheel diameter, from 12in up to 26in. As with an adult, top tube clearance and reach are very important.

Black Mountain

However, unlike most adults, it’s essential a child can reach the floor when seated for control and safety.

Never be tempted to buy a size up for ‘growing room’, it can be both uncomfortable and dangerous. Take a look at the controls: can they reach and operate them effectively?

It’s paramount that the brakes work well and can be easily squeezed with weaker hands. Take a look at the shifters too: are they struggling to push a thumb lever? If so, go for twist grip-type gears because many kids find the ergonomics easier to handle.

Gears and cranks are also often overlooked, with a considerable number of bikes sporting adult-length cranks and full-sized chainrings. Look for a good range of smaller gears instead, which will ensure they don’t struggle on the inclines.

Once the bike’s sorted, our beginner’s guide to cycling with kids will get you on track.

Problems caused by the wrong size mountain bike

If you do end up on the wrong sized mountain bike, whether that’s too small or too large, you could end up not enjoying yourself as much or, as a worst-case scenario, injuring yourself.

Aches and pains can be caused by aspects of bike setup, but also by other things, so don’t take this list as gospel; it’s a rough guide.

See your doctor if something is really hurting, especially if it continues to be painful after riding and it’s not solved by the adjustments mentioned here.

Matt Grayson

Be aware that a lot of your aches and pains on a bike are simply caused by insufficient muscle support. In other words, you may just need to ride more and do some core muscle training to work things out.

Here are some common ailments and their causes:

• Knees: Knee pain when riding can be caused by your saddle being too high or too low, or your shoe cleats being poorly adjusted. Some riders find that a pedal/cleat system with more free float gets rid of knee pain.
• Back: Back pain during/after riding will often be related to poor core muscle support, so there may not be a quick and easy setup fix. But try changing the position of your handlebars and/or your reach from the saddle to the bars. We know a lot of riders who’ve solved lower-back pain simply by putting the stem up or down by half an inch, or getting a handlebar with more backsweep. Back pain can be indicative that your bike’s frame is the wrong size.
• Shoulders/arms/neck: We’re putting these three together because it’s often similar aspects of setup that cause aches and pains in these areas, namely too much stress being placed on these bits of your body. This may be caused by being sat too far forward on the bike, but it can also be down to sitting too far back, making you curl your shoulders and preventing you holding the bar properly. Experiment with stem height and saddle-to-bar reach. Try different bar shapes: a lot of riders find that more backsweep or upsweep on a bar will make them feel far more comfortable. Also try anatomically shaped grips, which support your hands better. If your shoulders, arms or neck are hurting, they could be telling you that your bike is either too big or too small.
• Hips: A lot of hip problems among cyclists are caused by the saddle being either too high, too low, tipped too far back or forward, or not offering the right sort of padded support.

When your bike is the correct size:

• Arms: Good bike position results in relaxed shoulders and slightly bent elbows.
• Saddle: Correct saddle position is essential for balance, control and pedalling efficiency.
• Knees: Having very slightly bent knees at the bottom of each pedal stroke is perfect.
• Frame: Getting the correct frame size is essential, but it’s only a starting point for perfect bike setup.
• Shifters and brake levers: Don’t just leave them in one position. Experiment with setting them further in on the bars or tilting them.

Although everyone is different – some folks may have longer legs and a shorter torso, while others may have long arms and short legs – starting with the correct-sized frame allows you to further tune the position using stem, bar, seatpost and saddle tweaks.

How to get the perfect mountain bike fit

Follow these tips on how to adjust your bike so that it fits you better.

Mountain bike saddle height

BikeRadar

When answering the question ‘what size mountain bike do I need?’ what really matters is how the bike feels when you sit on it and ride.

The first thing you need to do, in the shop or on a demo ride, is set the saddle at the right height. If you can’t get the saddle to a comfortable height then the bike you’re riding could be the wrong size.

A rough approximation of maximum seat height for efficient pedalling is your trouser leg measurement plus 13cm (5in) from the centre top of the saddle to the centre top of the pedal.

To work it out more accurately, with comfort and efficiency in mind, sit squarely on your saddle with the cranks in a straight-up/straight-down position.

The saddle is at the right height when your heel just touches the top of the lower pedal with your leg straight; your crank should be right at the bottom of its stroke.

If you have to tilt to one side on the saddle to achieve this position, then the saddle is too high.

Place your foot on the pedal in the ready-to-pedal position. If your leg is straight with your heel on the pedal, it should be slightly bent at the knee in a pedalling position. You should never feel as if you’re being forced to rock your hips from side to side on the saddle while pedalling.

You may need to make adjustments to this position according to confidence and comfort preferences, and depending on what shoes you wear.

And keep in mind that this is all based on efficient pedalling for cross-country trail riding. You will want to set your saddle lower for difficult descents – a job taken care of by dropper posts.

Mountain bike saddle position

BikeRadar

As a rule, start with your saddle as level as possible on the top. This is an efficient cross-country position, but some riders will prefer a slightly tipped-back saddle for tricks, stunts and/or steep downhill work.

A few will prefer the nose of the saddle slightly tipped down for climbing or a more forward-biased ride posture – or if your bike’s seat tube angle is particularly shallow. But dead flat is right for most riders.

Saddle rails have a lot of fore/aft slide adjustment, and not all seatposts are created equal.

Some have set-back clamps, others have clamps in line with the top of the post. This has a bearing on the position you’re trying to achieve with your saddle.

Set the saddles too far back and it’ll make the bike feel back-heavy, possibly even too light at the front especially when you’re climbing.

A saddle set too far forward can cramp your ride position and make you feel as though you’re putting too much body weight on the front of the bike.

In theory, if a bike has exactly the right reach for you, and the fork is set up properly, you’ll probably end up with the saddle set dead centre on its rails. If you’ve got long arms for your height, you may end up with the saddle set well back: short arms and you’ll be looking at inline seatposts and your saddle forward.

You can use stem length and handlebar position to fine-tune the way you sit over the bike too.

How far away should the handlebars be from the saddle?

If you have access to different stem lengths and different-shaped handlebars, experiment with different ride positions, adjusting your saddle accordingly.

Arm, leg and torso length will vary between riders of the same height, and body weight distribution can have a major bearing on setup.

A starting point to work out the correct saddle to handlebar reach for XC or light trail bikes is to put the tip of your elbow on the nose of the saddle and see how far your longest finger reaches along the stem; forearm length is generally a good indicator of full arm and torso length.

Most riders looking for a fast and efficient trail riding posture will discover that their longest finger reaches to almost exactly halfway between the top of the steerer tube and the handlebar centre.

You can fine-tune ride feel from that point by adjusting your seat position, stem length and height, and handlebar type.

Some handlebars have a more generous backsweep than others, and you can turn bars in the stem to tune your hold position/wrist angle. We know riders who like their bars straight and others who find a 25-degree backsweep their ideal solution.

Keep that elbow tip to finger tip measurement in mind when working out whether a test bike is the right size for you.

It’s also worth considering the type of riding you’re going to be doing because while this rule of thumb works for disciplines where you spend a lot of time pedalling seated, it’s less appropriate for hardcore trail, all-mountain, enduro or downhill.

Mountain bike handlebar height

BikeRadar

How high you have your bars is a function of stack height, steerer tube length (and the number of adjustment spacers on it), stem height and rise, and handlebar rise.

Some riders feel relaxed with their bars at roughly saddle height, others (particularly cross-country racers) have them way below saddle height to achieve a flat-backed streamlined posture on the bike.

Control positions

BikeRadar

Brake levers and gear shifters can be put in different positions on the bar. On most brakes, you can adjust lever reach too, and on some you can adjust the point of contact where the brakes compress the pads.

We know riders who put up with their thumbs rubbing on their gear shifters for years before realising that setting them half an inch further inboard on the bars solves the problem without making them harder to use.

Bar width can be trimmed too: cutting an inch off either end of a handlebar might make a difference to your ride comfort.

Equally, you might benefit from better control with a wider bar. Swivelling bars a few degrees back or forth in the stem can also make a difference.

Don’t be afraid to try something different, but try it for a few rides in order to find the pros and cons of a new setup.

Components that affect comfort and control

Tyres: Tyre compounds, as well as pressures, will affect the way a bike feels on the trail. Cleverly treaded dual-compound tyres with a high TPI (threads per inch) carcass construction will generally deform more over rough terrain, and so grip better, without any increase in rolling resistance.

Cheaply made tyres tend to grip less and are more prone to losing traction when under pressure, especially in wet conditions.

Grips: Soft or sticky compound handlebar grips, or grips made from soft foam, might not be as hardwearing as others but they’re far more comfy, absorbing vibration and making you feel more at ease on the bike on rough terrain.

Find out which grips top our list of favourites here.

Andy Lloyd

Saddle: The right sort of surface material and the right sort of padding on a saddle is obviously going to make a huge difference to the way you feel about your bike.

As a rule, you should be able to move easily on the surface of a saddle; fancy embroidered graphics aren’t always conducive to this. And don’t assume that more padding is always better.

Slimline saddles with minimal padding in just the right places are often more comfy than big bouncy affairs, which will often chafe after a while.

Georgina Hinton

Pedals: The efficiency of your pedal/shoe interface has an impact on how you ride.

Stiff-soled shoes with inset cleats fixed to clipless pedals will make you a more efficient ‘full circles’ pedaller. But read instructions carefully when it comes to cleat position because poorly positioned cleats can cause problems, especially with knees.

Most riders start with their cleats set dead centre in the shoe recess, but that doesn’t feel right for everyone, and some cleats/pedals offer more free float movement than others.

Andy McCandlish / Immediate Media

Tyre and suspension setup and pressures

Your tyres, suspension fork and rear shock effectively provide an adjustable cushion between your bike and the ground.

Being able to set up your mountain bike suspension properly underpins your overall control and comfort. The same applies to mountain bike tyre pressure.

Big-volume tyres can be run at lower pressures than small-volume ones, and big-volume tyres with a low knob profile will often roll just as fast as, and offer more comfort and control than, skinny tyres.

Steve Behr / Immediate Media

Tyre pressures need to be adjusted to suit your riding style, the width of the tyres fitted to your bike, the width of the rims the tyre’s seated on and the conditions or trail-type you’re riding on. And of course, it depends if you’re running tubeless tyres. There is no universal rule.

However, if you feel that your bike is getting pinged around on the trail and you’ve verified your suspension is set up correctly, then your tyres might be too hard.

Equally, if it feels as though your tyres are squirming or rolling on the rim in turns, then they could be too soft.

Fork and shock settings will vary according to make and model, so consult manufacturer guidelines to find out how you should be dialling in your suspension.

Get an expert opinion from a bike fitter or reputable bike shop

Even if you feel overwhelmed after reading all of this information, fear not. Any reputable bike shop will be able to help you with finding the right size mountain bike for your needs.

Some shops even offer a professional bike-fitting session to really help you nail down what size bike you need and how you can modify your current bike to fit you better.

Don’t be afraid to head to your local bike shop to find out more.

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