{"id":41316,"date":"2022-09-30T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-09-29T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/cyclingplus\/?post_type=purple_issue&p=41316"},"modified":"2022-10-24T17:46:17","modified_gmt":"2022-10-24T15:46:17","slug":"northumberland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/cyclingplus\/2022\/09\/30\/northumberland\/","title":{"rendered":"Northumberland"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
DESTINATION <\/span><\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Northumberland<\/h2>\n\n

Words <\/strong> Rob Ainsley<\/span><\/p>\n\n

\"\"
If you have a gravel bike, you could take in some of the trails at Kielder Water, including the Lakeside Way, which loops right around the reservoir <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

The sparse, rolling, rugged lands of the far northeast offer very distinctive cycling experiences. The Coast and Castles route is a touring favourite, being as flat(-ish) and scenic as the title suggests, and includes the remarkable causeway crossing to Lindisfarne that\u2019s submerged by the tide twice a day. (The mainland entrance as the waters come in is the place for amazing, but safe, Instagram shots of \u2018cycling on water\u2019.) And Northumberland has the best bits of the Hadrian\u2019s Cycleway too, another easy-ish touring route through robustly characterful towns past the most photogenic stretches of the wall.<\/p>\n\n

\"\"
Take in some awe-inspiring castles, including Bamburgh (pictured) and Alnwick, of Harry Potter fame <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

It\u2019s farther inland, though, amid the glowering humps of the Cheviots, where the biking action really starts. Head west from Alnwick to Rothbury and then to the head of the Coquet Valley, an underhyped gem. Large town is followed by small town, then villages, then hamlets, then isolated farmhouses, as the riverside lane man\u0153uvres through the enveloping hills. It\u2019s England, but more remote than most ever experience. <\/p>\n\n

After the head of the Coquet, you can continue southwest to Blakehopeburnhaugh (next to Cottonshopeburnfoot). A twelve mile track goes to Kielder Water, a nexus for forest-y and reservoir-y gravel routes. <\/p>\n\n

For a few days a month the Otterburn Ranges, a large MoD area west of the Coquet, drops the keepout red flags and lets in road cyclists. Base yourself in Alwinton or Harbottle on the upper Coquet (their pubs are the only services for miles) and ride a 30-mile or more circuit through vast, empty, untrafficked moors and hills unlike anything else in England. They may not be in road atlases or on Google Street View, but they\u2019re good, straightish tarmac military ways (one being Dere St, the old Roman Road to the North) with great sightlines for downhill joy. <\/p>\n\n

\"\"
The climb up through the Coquet valley is remote but the views are stunning and the tarmac good <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
Big dates<\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

For access to Otterburn Ranges, look for \u2018No Firing\u2019 days on the MoD lists \u2013 search for \u2018Otterburn Ranges firing times\u2019. Weekends (especially Bank Holidays), and lambing season (mid- April to mid-May) are the best bets. In firing times, you\u2019re restricted to the road up to the head of the Coquet Valley, and the lane from there southwest to join the horrible A68. <\/p>\n\n

Don\u2019t miss <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

The causeway to Lindisfarne; castles (Alnwick, Bamburgh, Dunstanburgh, Warkworth, etc); Hadrian\u2019s Wall at Once Brewed, and Roman museums; forested gravel loops round Kielder Water; the wonderful secondhand bookshop \u2018cathedral\u2019 of Barter Books, Alnwick, where the \u2018Keep Calm and Carry On\u2019 propaganda poster, which was never officially used during the Second World War, was rediscovered more than 50 years years later. <\/p>\n\n

Travel <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Take the train up or down the East Coast Main Line to Alnmouth (make sure you book bike spaces ahead). Visitable, stayable Alnwick is nearby. Pick up the Coquet Valley at pleasant Rothbury, or at Alwinton via Whittingham. Alnmouth to Alwinton is about a 35 mile, scenic, ride. E-bike hire is available in Alnwick (see bike shop info, right). <\/p>\n\n

Accommodation <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Semi-wild campsite (\u2018Nightfold\u2019) is at Barrowburn Farm (\u00a310pp per night), or there are other campsites nearby. There\u2019s pub accommodation at Alwinton and Harbottle. For more options, Rothbury is the nearest town while Alnwick is the nearest big town. <\/p>\n\n

Tourist information <\/strong><\/h5>\n\n

Head to visitnorthumberland.com<\/a> <\/em>for more information. <\/p>\n\n

<\/div>
\n

The Route <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

\u25cf Anarrow valley bottom lane winds northwest from Alwinton, hugging the Coquet. Passing only isolated farmhouses, you climb steadily out of Fulhope to a lofty old Roman Camp and join Dere St, the old Roman Road, for moortop panoramas (check out Ridlees Cairn). Easy climbs and good downhills, especially back to the public road at Holystone. And all decent tarmac. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

01 Bike shop <\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Bike Shop, Alnwick (NE66 2PF, thebikeshopalnwick.<\/em><\/a><\/span>co.uk<\/a><\/em>, closed Sun) is a small but well stocked shop on the edge of town: good, experienced, friendly. Roadside assistance\/rescue too! (07599 350000). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

02 Lunch stop <\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cragside, Rothbury (NE65 7PX, nationaltrust.org.uk\/cragside<\/a>) <\/em>is a splendid National Trust house just outside town with courtyard cafe and picnic tables overlooking a lake. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

03 Photo op <\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Coquet Valley, plus good shots around Barrowburn. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance <\/strong>48km\/30 miles
Elevation <\/strong>640m\/ 2,100ft
Download <\/strong>komoot.com\/tour\/890699213<\/a> <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

Photography Andy McCandlish, Getty, Michael Kirkman<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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