{"id":35752,"date":"2022-04-12T16:00:55","date_gmt":"2022-04-12T14:00:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bikeradar.com\/?p=670425"},"modified":"2022-04-12T16:20:21","modified_gmt":"2022-04-12T14:20:21","slug":"how-to-turn-an-old-hardtail-into-a-super-commuter","status":"publish","type":"rss_feed","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/cyclingplus\/rss_feed\/how-to-turn-an-old-hardtail-into-a-super-commuter\/","title":{"rendered":"How to turn an old hardtail into a super commuter"},"content":{"rendered":"

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By James Costley-White\n \t\t<\/p>

Published: Tuesday, 12 April 2022 at 12:00 am<\/p>

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If you\u2019ve got an old mountain bike or frame sitting unloved in the shed, then it could provide the perfect base to create a super-commuter build.<\/p>\n

With a few carefully chosen components, you can breathe new life into a bike otherwise consigned to gathering dust.<\/p>\n

And that\u2019s exactly what we\u2019ve done here, converting an old hardtail into a well-thought-out commuting bike<\/a> for the ride to work.<\/p>\n

1. Frame<\/h2>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
The Stanton Sherpa 853 started life as a hardtail mountain bike in 2016.<\/span><\/figcaption> Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Let\u2019s start with the frame.<\/p>\n

You can convert any hardtail<\/a> into a decent commuting bike, although the older it is, the more issues you may encounter due to outdated \u2018standards\u2019.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve used a Stanton Sherpa 853 29er<\/a> as the basis for this build.<\/p>\n

\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
The Sherpa in commuting mode.<\/span><\/figcaption> Andy Lloyd \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Originally reviewed on BikeRadar in 2016<\/a>, it\u2019s still a perfectly good frame but, with its non-Boost hub spacing, quick-release dropouts, lack of internal dropper post<\/a> routing and relatively short reach, is no longer primed for trail duties.<\/p>\n

Before planning your build, you\u2019ll need to check whether your frame\u2019s head tube is sized for a tapered- or straight-steerer fork and what rear-axle standard<\/a> it requires (QR or bolt-through, Boost or non-Boost).<\/p>\n

2. Fork<\/h2>\n

There\u2019s no need for front suspension on most commutes. Instead, a rigid fork will save weight and require zero maintenance.<\/p>\n

If it has a slightly shorter axle-to-crown height than the fork originally fitted to your frame (taking sag into account), it\u2019ll steepen up the geometry a tad \u2013 no bad thing for road climbs \u2013 without lowering the bottom bracket too much.<\/p>\n

Most steel forks, like this one from Identiti, have straight steerer tubes, so will require a new lower headset cup or a crown race adaptor to fit into modern frames. If you have the money, the likes of Kinesis, Ritchey and ENVE offer tapered carbon fibre models.<\/p>\n

At the more affordable end of the market, Carbon Cycles offers tapered eXotic forks in alloy or carbon, starting from under \u00a3100.<\/p>\n

  • Fork:<\/strong> Identiti XC fork<\/li>\n<\/ul>
    • <\/li>\n<\/ul>