{"id":39289,"date":"2022-07-08T14:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-07-08T12:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bikeradar.com\/?p=3480"},"modified":"2022-07-08T14:20:17","modified_gmt":"2022-07-08T12:20:17","slug":"buyers-guide-to-touring-wheels-what-to-look-for-in-a-set-of-robust-wheels","status":"publish","type":"rss_feed","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/cyclingplus\/rss_feed\/buyers-guide-to-touring-wheels-what-to-look-for-in-a-set-of-robust-wheels\/","title":{"rendered":"Buyer\u2019s guide to touring wheels: what to look for in a set of robust wheels"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>

By Oscar Huckle\n \t\t<\/p>

Published: Friday, 08 July 2022 at 12:00 am<\/p>

\n\n

Once you\u2019ve bought a suitable frame, a quality set of wheels is one of the most important components of a touring bike<\/a>.<\/p>\n

A pair of robust yet comfort-oriented wheels will make a significant difference to your ride. Provided they are built correctly, you shouldn\u2019t have to worry about breaking a spoke and sending the wheel out of true on bikepacking trips<\/a>.<\/p>\n

In this guide, we will take you through the key features of touring wheels and what to look for, how they differ from road bike wheels<\/a> or gravel wheels<\/a>, the pros and cons of stock versus handbuilt wheels, and some options to consider.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve also spoken to David CR Meadows, owner of DCR Wheels, Ryan Downes of RyanBuildsWheels and Robin Thorn, director of SJS Cycles to provide additional insight into the subject.<\/p>\n

What is a touring wheel?<\/h2>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
A touring wheel is all about reliability.<\/span><\/figcaption> Immediate Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

A touring wheel is typically heavier-duty than a road or gravel bike wheel because they\u2019re designed to withstand larger loads and be reliable over long distances.<\/p>\n

They should require less maintenance because they\u2019re not designed for out-and-out speed. They will typically have rims constructed from aluminium, rather than carbon fibre.<\/p>\n

\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
A wheelset designed for touring should be able to carry both you and your gear.<\/span><\/figcaption> David Caudery \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Downes succinctly summarises a touring wheel as \u201csomething that will carry you and all of your gear\u201d.<\/p>\n

You can buy a touring wheel off-the-shelf, but heading down the hand-built route is a popular option. This is because you can customise the exact rim, spoke and hub combinations to suit your riding weight and specific requirements. We\u2019ll explore the topic of hand-built wheels in depth later in the guide.<\/p>\n

What to look for in touring wheels<\/h2>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
The spokes and nipples hold the rim and hub together.<\/span><\/figcaption> Josh Patterson\/Future Publishing<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

There are effectively four components that hold your wheel together \u2013 the rim, spokes, nipples and hub.<\/p>\n

Both Downes and Thorn say the two primary aspects to look for in a touring wheel are \u201cstrength and durability\u201d.<\/p>\n

Here, we\u2019ll explain what to look for in each component.<\/p>\n

Touring rims explained<\/h3>\n

Most touring bike wheels are built around chunkier box-section rims. These are often double walled with double eyelets. An eyelet is an aluminium sleeve that reinforces the spoke holes.<\/p>\n

Double eyelets help spread the load across the rim and the thicker sidewalls should mean better durability.<\/p>\n

Touring rims are typically wider, both internally and externally, for additional comfort. Wider internal rim widths tend to increase effective tyre volume.<\/p>\n

You can buy rims that are suitable for use off-road, should you want to wander off the beaten track.<\/p>\n

The wider the rim, though, the higher the weight, so consider the terrain you\u2019re going to be riding in carefully.<\/p>\n

Downes advises considering what width of tyre you would like to run and matching the rim with your tyre choice.<\/p>\n

For example, if you wanted to run 700c x 28mm road tyres, that would be best paired with a 20mm internal-width rim.<\/p>\n

\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
Rim-brake rims are still used.<\/span><\/figcaption> Jack Luke \/ Immediate Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Meadows advises checking the wall thickness of the rim if it is a rim-brake wheelset. He adds that some road wheelsets designed for rim brakes can have a wall thickness as low as 1.1mm to save weight.<\/p>\n

In contrast, some rim-brake rims can be as thick as 2.5mm, which adds weight and durability.<\/p>\n

Downes doesn\u2019t like building on rims that measure less than 1.8mm in wall thickness because \u201cyou\u2019re simply looking for a thicker rim for touring purposes that has more braking material to account for the wear over time\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

You should also consider whether you would like to run tubeless tyres<\/a> or if you\u2019ll be sticking to clincher tyres, because the rim will determine compatibility.<\/p>\n

Meadows says tubeless tyres are unpopular with his customers because the tyres can be harder to install or remove. That said, the sealant can help prevent punctures<\/a>, so you shouldn\u2019t need to remove or re-install the tyre as often as a clincher.<\/p>\n

Downes says he sees roughly a 50-50 split between tubeless and clinchers, whereas SJS does not collate these figures.<\/p>\n

Bear in mind that fitting tubeless tyres often decreases a wheel\u2019s spoke tension, because they exert more force on the rim than an inner tube<\/a>. It\u2019s worth deciding if you are going down this route before the wheel is built to ensure it\u2019s built and tested with tubeless in mind.<\/p>\n

Touring wheel spoke counts<\/h3>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
J-bend spokes are strong and easy to build.<\/span><\/figcaption> Tom Marvin \/ Immediate Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Most touring wheels use higher spoke counts for better rigidity and often use a three or four-cross lacing pattern.<\/p>\n

A higher spoke count is preferable because if you were to break a spoke on a ride, there is a reduced chance of the wheel going significantly out of true, given there are more spokes to hold its structure.<\/p>\n

This is corroborated by Thorn, who says that \u201cit is easier to [achieve] a straight wheel\u201d when truing and \u201c32 holes gives the best chance of getting a replacement rim in the event of a misadventure\u201d.<\/p>\n

Meadows says the spoke count \u201cshould really be driven by the rider and luggage loading [weight]\u201d, but would generally \u201cadvise 32 spokes\u201d, although \u201c36 and 28 are also common\u201d.<\/p>\n

\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
An increased spoke count, laced in a three or four-cross pattern, will provide the basis for a robust wheel capable of handling the additional load of a touring bike.<\/span><\/figcaption> Russell Burton \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Meadows adds thicker spokes on the driveside is a popular option and that while some riders opt for plain gauge (the same thickness from one end to the other), he wouldn\u2019t recommend them.<\/p>\n

Some believe using a thicker driveside spoke helps to even spoke tension across the wheel, but Downes says this is a misconception and is just a reading on the tensiometer.<\/p>\n

Downes generally echoes DCR\u2019s recommendations on spoke count, although he believes thicker spokes on the driveside only offer a marginal gain because \u201cwhile thicker spokes will result in a stiffer build, most riders may not notice this and generally speaking a superior butted spoke will have a longer fatigue life\u201d.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

He adds there is a stronger case to be made for thinner spokes on the non-driveside because they exist under more elongation and are more likely to lose their tension, should the wheel take an impact, but it\u2019s still a fairly minor detail in the grand scheme of things.<\/p>\n

\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
Brass nipples are a staple on touring wheels.<\/span><\/figcaption> Jack Luke \/ Immediate Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Brass nipples are generally used on all touring wheels, because they are more durable and corrosion-resistant than lightweight alloy nipples.<\/p>\n

Meadows likes to use double square nipples, where the shape allows truing with a spoke wrench both internally and externally and the nipple surface doesn\u2019t get scratched while truing internally. He advocates their use because they take the spoke further in and the slot is a weak point for a traditional nipple.<\/p>\n

Downes believes that double-squared nipples offer a quicker build but doesn\u2019t feel it\u2019s necessary with brass. However, they can be really useful if using alloy nipples because they encourage more thread engagement.<\/p>\n

On the subject of alloy nipples, Thorn advises against alloy nipples unless \u201call you intend to do is look at your bike (or weigh it)\u201d. This is a sentiment shared by Meadows.<\/p>\n

Downes is more positive but will only use Sapim alloy nipples, because they feature additional weather-proofing properties.<\/p>\n

Front wheels generally have a lower spoke count than the rear because they carry less weight. It\u2019s a good idea to consider what luggage you will be carrying and where on the bike, because you can opt for different spoke counts front and rear to suit your requirements.<\/p>\n

Rim or disc brake for touring wheels<\/h3>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
Disc brakes are increasingly commonplace on touring wheels.<\/span><\/figcaption> Russell Burton \/ Immediate Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

The type of brakes<\/a> a touring wheel is designed around will be determined by your bike.<\/p>\n

Rim brakes are a more traditional choice for touring bikes, offering solid braking in dry conditions, although they can suffer when it\u2019s wet. They are easy to work on mechanically and it is usually easy to source a brake cable, should you suffer a breakage in the field.<\/p>\n

Disc brakes<\/a> allow for increased tyre clearances and the rim of the wheel is not being used as a braking surface. Hydraulic disc brakes (which use hydraulic brake fluid<\/a> rather than a brake cable) offer more consistent braking and improved modulation (the feel of the brake) when stopping. They are now ubiquitous off-road.<\/p>\n

Rim brakes once ruled the roost on the road, but the majority of road bikes<\/a> and gravel bikes<\/a> have now moved to disc brakes, too, and rim brakes are slowly and surely becoming seldom specced.<\/p>\n

Touring bike hubs<\/h3>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
The DT Swiss 350 hub is a top performer.<\/span><\/figcaption> Ian Linton \/ Immediate Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Reliability is, again, the aim when deciding on hubs for your touring bike.<\/p>\n

The first thing to consider is what type of bearings the hubs roll on. You will typically have a choice between cup-and-cone and sealed-cartridge bearings.<\/p>\n

Cup-and-cone hubs can be adjusted and relatively easily serviced. If you have a problem in the middle of nowhere, you\u2019re also not reliant on being able to source a proprietary-sized cartridge bearing that a bike shop is unlikely to stock. Cartridge bearings also need to be installed using a bearing press.<\/p>\n

\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
Shimano is one of the only brands to continue running on cup-and-cone bearings.<\/span><\/figcaption> James Huang\/BikeRadar<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

However, cup-and-cone bearings suffer under poor adjustment and, if not maintained, the cups and cones can get pitted over time.<\/p>\n

Sealed-cartridge bearings do away with loose ball bearings and rely on cartridge bearings instead. There generally isn\u2019t any adjustment possible, given they are installed into the frame using a bearing press.<\/p>\n

However, on some hubs, you can adjust the preload. Sealed-cartridge bearings are a fit-and-forget item and should generally last a long time before they require replacement, provided the bearings are of good quality and are properly maintained.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s worth spending money on the hubs, because a good quality one can be rebuilt on a new rim once the braking surface wears out.<\/p>\n

Downes advocates using sealed-cartridge bearings over cup-and-cone, saying: \u201cyou\u2019re not going to find a Shimano cone in the middle of a desert, but you might find an automotive bearing.\u201d<\/p>\n

Freehubs<\/h3>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
There\u2019s a lot that goes on in a freehub.<\/span><\/figcaption> James Huang \/ Immediate Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

It\u2019s also worth considering what groupset you are likely to ride on the bike so you can ensure that the freehub<\/a> is compatible with it.<\/p>\n

Downes prefers a steel freehub (as opposed to aluminium), because there\u2019s a reduced chance of the cassette biting into the body, as well as a lower risk of breaking the axle under full load if the hub features an increased bearing size. He adds regardless of the hub choice that a steel axle is the best choice because he has seen aluminium ones snap at machined junctions and \u201csteel is a stronger material\u201d.<\/p>\n

You should also consider how easy the hub and freehub are to service, should you get caught out on a tour. Some hubs rely on a pawl-and-spring system, whereas others use ratchets.<\/p>\n

Dynamo hubs<\/h3>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
It could be worth considering a dynamo hub.<\/span><\/figcaption> Jack Luke \/ Immediate Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

You may want to consider a dynamo hub, which offers you the opportunity to charge devices and\/or run lighting while riding. We have a full guide to bike dynamos<\/a> that takes you through all the details.<\/p>\n

Touring wheels vs road and gravel wheels \u2013 the differences explained<\/h2>\n

Touring wheels are typically intended to be harder-wearing and designed for pure reliability over road and gravel wheels.<\/p>\n

However, it isn\u2019t easy to differentiate between the two and, technically, a touring wheel designed for the road could equally be classified as a \u2018road\u2019 or \u2018gravel\u2019 wheel.<\/p>\n

Thorn argues there are no differences, other than touring wheels are more focused on \u201cendurance and less about performance\u201d.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s a sentiment mostly shared by DCR, who says \u201cthe most important thing in any pair of wheels is that it fits the bike\u201d, but concedes that a touring bike will \u201cgenerally have wheels which are confused about being tough and durable\u201d.<\/p>\n

Custom or stock?<\/h2>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
If you have specific requirements, or relish the opportunity to spec your own components, heading down the hand-built route is a compelling option.<\/span><\/figcaption> James Huang\/Future Publishing<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

You can very easily buy a set of touring wheels off-the-peg, but there is a strong case to be made for ordering custom touring wheels to suit your needs. Specific wheel-building specialists, such as DCR Wheels or RyanBuildsWheels, exist for this purpose.<\/p>\n

Hand-built wheels are customised to your personal needs and are built to your riding conditions and weight. Some argue there\u2019s greater quality control over the process, too, such as tensioning and truing by hand rather than by machine, as well as correct preparation of the spoke thread interfaces.<\/p>\n

They can potentially be more durable too, given they have been custom built to your requirements. In contrast, stock wheels need to cater to the largest possible audience and may not suit your needs as precisely.<\/p>\n

Should I build my own wheels?<\/h2>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
There are some skills you will need to learn if you\u2019d like to build your own wheels.<\/span><\/figcaption> Phil Gale\/Future Publishing<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

Unless you know what you\u2019re doing, Thorn advises against building your own pair of wheels. He says that if you want to give wheel building a try, \u201cyour build should be something cheap\u201d and you should \u201cpractise, practise, practise\u201d.<\/p>\n

He adds: \u201cthe components play a big part [in the wheel\u2019s performance], but so does the wheel builder\u2026 use a professional!\u201d<\/p>\n

Meadows\u2019 view isn\u2019t as strong, but he notes there are many areas where home builders go wrong. He advises to use the correct length of spoke and double-squared nipples, ensure spoke tensions are even and to \u201cstress the wheels\u2026 [repeatedly] until they settle\u201d.<\/p>\n

Downes is significantly more optimistic and encourages riders to learn the science of wheel building. He advises to \u201cgo [for] brass [spokes] if you\u2019re building for the first time and lubricate the spokes and nipples\u201d. He also recommends using \u201csome form of tensiometer\u201d but also to take time and enjoy the process, and crucially \u201cnever work without a cup of tea\u201d.<\/p>\n

If you do fancy giving it a go, check out our guide to lacing wheels<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Eight touring wheelsets to consider<\/h2>\n

Here are some touring wheels to run the rule over if you\u2019re in the market for a new set.<\/p>\n

Factotum Endurance Disc<\/h3>\n
\"""\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>
The DT Swiss R500db rim is a wheel builder\u2019s staple.<\/span><\/figcaption> DT Swiss<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n

The Factotum Endurance Disc is a performance-focused tubeless-ready wheelset that is ideally suited for 30-48mm tyres in either 650b or 700c<\/a> wheel sizes. This wheelset sees DT Swiss R500 rims laced to Bitex BX106 Centrelock disc-brake hubs. Silver or black Sapim Race spokes with Brass Polyax nipples are specced and available spoke hole counts are 28 or 32.<\/p>\n