Note how the prongs click behind the bearing you want to remove. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>Insert the rocket tool until you hear the expanding ends click behind the bearing you want to remove.\u00a0<\/p>
For 30mm bearings (BB30 \/ PF30), you\u2019ll need to use Park\u2019s BBT-30.4. It features stepped ends that are positioned over the bearing you want to remove.\u00a0<\/p>
If the frame uses circlips to retain the bearings, make sure the stepped end of the tool is not positioned on the ears of the circlip.\u00a0<\/p>
Position the sliding centring guide to ensure you are hitting the bearing squarely. Once the bearing is out, remove the opposite side.\u00a0<\/p>You’ll notice the unit begin to dislodge the more you hit it. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>With the correct tool in place, hit the end with a steel-faced hammer. Use strong, single blows rather than repeatedly hitting the tool.\u00a0<\/p>Be prepared for the cup to land on the floor. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>If the bottom bracket has been installed for a long time, it may take some encouragement to remove. You should be able to see the unit begin to move the more you hit it.\u00a0<\/p>
To use the BRT-003, insert the collet into one of the bearings. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>Fit the expander rod on the other side until it catches on the collet. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>Next, place the receiver cup over the collet. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>Then, turn the knob on the expander rod by hand or with an 8mm hex key. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>The bottom bracket cup will then pop out into the receiver cup. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/button><\/button><\/div><\/div><\/div>Hammer-free solutions such as the Enduro BRT-002 and BRT-003 also exist. Insert the cup over one of the bearings and then, using an 8mm hex key, turn until it releases.\u00a0<\/p>
If the idea of taking a hammer to your pride and joy fills you with dread, tools such as these offer a gentler solution.<\/p>
Step 3\u00a0<\/h3>Make sure the bottom bracket shell is scrupulously clean. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>Clean the bottom bracket shell thoroughly with a clean rag and isopropyl alcohol.\u00a0<\/p>
Manufacturers or mechanics may recommend grease or anti-seize, or even just a clean and dry surface. Some advocate the use of a retaining compound to prevent the bearings from creaking.\u00a0<\/p>Some recommend the use of a retaining compound. – Oscar Huckle \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>This is an adhesive that hardens and expands once applied, effectively gluing the bottom bracket in place, filling in any gaps. Bear in mind it will take more effort to remove in the future though.\u00a0<\/p>
Loctite 641 (a medium-strength threadlocker) or Park Tool\u2019s RC-1 are popular products.\u00a0<\/p>
In our experience, we would typically advise against the use of retaining compound, unless you have previous experience of the frame or bottom bracket creaking.\u00a0<\/p>You’ll need to use an adhesive primer before the retaining compound. – Oscar Huckle \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>If you are going to use a retaining compound on a carbon fibre frame, make sure you use an adhesive primer first to prepare the area and then allow it to dry (typically 5-10 mins), otherwise the bearing won\u2019t stick.\u00a0<\/p>
In all cases, we would advise following the guidelines from the frame and bottom bracket manufacturer, with a leaning towards installing the unit dry if there are no specific recommendations.\u00a0<\/p>
We would use grease if installing a metal press-fit unit into an aluminium frame to prevent any potential galling, or anti-seize if you\u2019re working with a steel or titanium frame.\u00a0<\/p>
Some people say you shouldn\u2019t use grease on a carbon fibre frame because they believe the grease can attack the resin inside the composite. This is a myth on modern carbon fibre frames.\u00a0<\/p>
Step 4\u00a0<\/h3>This is where the bearing press comes into play. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>It\u2019s now time to install the new bearings.\u00a0<\/p>
Make sure any obstructions, such as Shimano Di2 wires, hydraulic hoses or any bolts holding a cable guide, clear the installed bearings.\u00a0<\/p>
The Shimano Dura-Ace bottom bracket we’re installing presses in on both sides, although thread-together options exist too and are increasingly popular.\u00a0<\/p>You’ll need to select a suitable drift that fits perfectly into the cup. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>A thread-together press-fit bottom bracket usually entails one bottom bracket cup that is pressed into the frame. The other then screws into the threads of the pressed-in bearing and is torqued to a recommended figure.\u00a0<\/p>
There are several schools of thought over whether it\u2019s best to press one or both in at a time. We\u2019re going to go one at a time because it\u2019s easier to watch if one cup is pressing in perfectly straight rather than both. If your press doesn\u2019t use drifts, we\u2019d also recommend going one at a time.\u00a0<\/p>
If you\u2019re going to install some protection on the bearing, now\u2019s the time to do it.\u00a0<\/p>Install the bearing by hand loosely into the frame. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>Install the bearing loosely into the frame.\u00a0<\/p>
Set up your press and drifts. Begin to press the bearing in. Press it in slowly and make sure the press is installing it straight.\u00a0<\/p>
With the cup loosely installed, fit the relevant drift with the press. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>If you’re installing one cup at a time like we are, you’ll need a drift to fit the other side of the bottom bracket shell. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>Press the bearing in, making sure to keep constant watch that it’s going in straight. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>Take care not to overtighen the bearing. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>Et voila…! – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/button><\/button><\/div><\/div><\/div>It\u2019s normal to hear some slight creaks or popping noises as the bearing seats into place but if at any time the bearing becomes excessively tight to install, stop and reassess the situation.\u00a0<\/p>
You should feel the press tighten up once the bearing\u2019s fully seated. Do not over-tighten the bearing, because you risk damaging the bearings or fracturing the frame.\u00a0<\/p>
The Enduro BRT-003 also functions as a press. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>The receiver cup that’s used in removal is reversed for installation and acts as a drift. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>You then turn the knob on the end of the threaded rod to press the bearing in. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>Or alternatively, you can use an 8mm hex key. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div>Again, you’ll want to pay close attention that the bearings are pressing in straight. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/button><\/button><\/div><\/div><\/div>Step 5<\/h3>Check the bottom bracket with the cranks installed for smooth operation. – Steve Sayers \/ Our Media<\/figcaption><\/figure>Visually inspect the bearing has been correctly pressed in and the bearings spin freely. Reinstall your crankset and check for smooth operation.\u00a0<\/p> <\/body><\/html>\n
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