\u201cAll the gravel sections are tough\u201d. Halfway up the first off-road climb of the day and Struggle Events\u2019 guide and co-founder Victoria Mannakee\u2019s warnings are ringing in my ears. If the 10 per cent average gradient doesn\u2019t get you, the technical terrain will.<\/p>
In fact, I\u2019ve already been forced to quickly unclip and dab my foot down twice \u2013 the first time because rocks the size of grapefruits made the narrow singletrack path impassible; the second due to deep and loose shingle that punished poor line choice with wheel spins on every pedal stroke.<\/p>
This is gravel riding<\/a>, Yorkshire Dales style. Ascents drag for kilometres at a time \u2013 in less than 10km, I\u2019d already climbed 400m \u2013 while the \u2018flat\u2019 sections would be considered undulating on my regular training rides in London.<\/p> I\u2019m up in the northern limits of God\u2019s Own Country to try out a route that features tasters of two brand new Struggle events.<\/p> Renowned for their notoriously tricky Struggle Dales and Struggle Moors road sportives, co-founders Matt and Victoria Mannakee have launched the late-summer Borderlands weekender. It’s a two-day celebration of Yorkshire borders riding that features a road event (174km\/3,000m+ elevation or 100km\/1,640m+ elevation) on day one and a gravel-focused ride (100km\/1,712m+ elevation or 50km\/950m+ elevation) on day two.<\/p> Participants are invited to take part in one or both events, with camping, pizza and pasta parties, and expo-style stands from sponsors, also onsite.<\/p> Road cyclists at heart, the Mannakees wanted to offer a gravel racing<\/a> event that lived up to the reputation of their other rides.<\/p> They turned to the Dales Bike Centre\u2019s Stuart Price, an advanced mountain-bike leader with unrivalled local knowledge, and together they\u2019ve crafted a course that will push riders to their limits without straying into out-and-out mountain-bike territory.<\/p> The pair believe their new Borderlands weekender will test the hardiest cyclists over two days of brutal, if beautiful, riding. If my 65km sampler (and its 1,050m elevation gain) is anything to go by, they aren\u2019t wrong.<\/p><\/div><\/div> Arriving at the route\u2019s start point at the Dales Bike Centre in Reeth, it\u2019s clear today\u2019s ride is going to include a fair bit of climbing.<\/p> Situated in the valley between Wensleydale and Swaledale, the only way to avoid elevation would be to hug the banks of the river Swale.<\/p> But that wouldn\u2019t scream \u2018struggle\u2019, would it?<\/p> After a swift bike setup in the car park, a flat white from the centre\u2019s cafe and an obligatory team photo, the group is ready to go.<\/p> A short stint on the asphalt leads us onto the impressive Swale Way \u2013 a 130km path that follows the river of the same name from its source in Swaledale to where it meets the River Ure near Boroughbride.<\/p> The gentle nature of the ride is short-lived, though, with the first pitch of the day arriving shortly after 3km.<\/p> Veering south off the river\u2019s bank, there are three different options to tackle the grassy hill, but the only way is up. Feeling confident \u2013 read: cocky \u2013 I go for the most difficult path, the aforementioned rock-strewn sheep track.<\/p> Approaching three-quarters of the way up, the boulders have sapped all my momentum and I grind to a halt. I realise this is going to be more difficult than I\u2019d thought\u2026<\/p> The first ramp is a mere appetiser of what follows. Turning off the drystone-wall lined Swale Hall Lane, we continue our ascent up onto Wensleydale and the peak of Apedale Head.<\/p> At 6.4km long, with an average gradient of 4.2 per cent, this would be a slog on the road; throw in terrain that literally shifts beneath your tyres and the difficulty is amped up.<\/p> Thankfully, the panoramic views take some of the sting out of the proceedings.<\/p> At this elevation, it\u2019s possible to see out across the whole of the Dales \u2013 a picturesque scene of rolling, luscious hills as far as the eye can see.<\/p> The sun even breaks through the cloud once the worst of the climbing is over. In this light, I could be in the depths of Tuscany on the white gravel roads made famous by the legendary L\u2019Eroica.<\/p> The undulating course cuts across the crumpled landscape, dipping out of view at the summit of each hillock before reappearing again further in the distance \u2013 a beige scar on the mottled panorama.<\/p> A rustle in the heather snaps my attention back towards the ground. A curlew and its chicks make a break for cover, heading deep into the wildflowers.<\/p> Then, passing through a disused mine to reach the climb\u2019s summit, I feel as if I\u2019ve been transported to a Martian landscape, the pockmarks of industrialisation juxtaposed against the sheep-cropped grass around it.<\/p> What goes up must come down, and the descent is even more technical than the climb we\u2019ve ascended.<\/p> Flying down a twisting gravel road, I aim my tyres for the hardpacked tracks compressed over decades of use by heavy industry, fearful of getting bogged down and sliding out in the shingle up the middle.<\/p> My brain tells me to loosen my grip on my handlebar and go with the flow, but my white knuckles suggest my survival instinct has other ideas.<\/p> The gravel is replaced by grass, but it\u2019s hardly a respite, the still-damp surface causing me to skid if I pull my Scott Addict Gravel\u2019s disc brakes too hard; the rutted descent sends harsh vibrations through my whole body, setting my teeth chattering.<\/p><\/div><\/div> Reaching terra firma (aka asphalt), my body is grateful for a quick breather, but where we\u2019ve come out is surreal.<\/p> Having spent the best part of 90 minutes going up and over the remote expanse of Wensleydale, I now find myself in the shadows of the 14th-century Bolton Castle that sits on the village green. <\/p> It\u2019s strange to think this small, unassuming village has been the home of barons, dukes and, for a six-month imprisonment, Mary, Queen of Scots.<\/p> Clipping back in, we\u2019re set to stick to the road for a while as we make our way west before tackling the beast of Buttertubs Pass.<\/p> There\u2019s still 20km of riding to go before we encounter the 4.6km-long, 5.5 per cent average gradient ascent that featured in both the 2014 Tour de France and 2019 World Championships. And what a 20km it is.<\/p> Cutting through one of Wensleydale\u2019s valleys, stunning beauty awaits us around every corner.<\/p> Loosely tracking the banks of the Ure, the route whizzes us past wildflower meadows that glow golden in the late spring sunshine.<\/p> The rolling fields are interspersed with chocolate box settlements \u2013 Carperby, Woodhall, Newbiggin \u2013 while Askrigg\u2019s bunting-lined main street brings back memories of watching Yorkshire\u2019s Grand D\u00e9part on TV.<\/p> Although there is a false flat most of the way, after a morning of the rough stuff and even more distracting beauty, I feel like I\u2019m floating. <\/p> We turn left off of the main drag in the direction of Hawes for a quick pitstop at Stage 1 Cycles\u2019 Firebox cafe, getting in some sustenance before battling Buttertubs.<\/p> It\u2019s relatively quiet despite it being the half-term holidays, and in moments I\u2019ve slurped down a can of Coke with a flapjack chaser.<\/p><\/div><\/div> Refreshed and revitalised, there\u2019s no point in delaying the inevitable anymore \u2013 it\u2019s time to embark on an ascent of Buttertubs Pass.<\/p> After a spring that included stints riding in Italy and Switzerland, the climb\u2019s length and gradient shouldn\u2019t come as a complete shock to my London-trained legs. But with ramps of 16.8 per cent, it could send my heart rate spiralling.<\/p> \u201cThat right-hand turn is where the KOM starts,\u201d says Victoria. And like a red rag to a bull, I\u2019m off. I might be on a gravel bike<\/a> (getting my excuses in early), but I have Tadej Poga\u010dar\u2019s record in my sights.<\/p> Even if I know I\u2019m not going to be able to pip the two-time Tour de France winner\u2019s 10-minute 50-second effort during the 2019 world champs race, it\u2019s fun to see how close you are to the world\u2019s best \u2013 if your idea of enjoyment is putting yourself through the wringer\u2026<\/p> The hill starts gradually, hovering around 2-3 per cent.<\/p> I find a gear and start to grind out a steady cadence while keeping my eye on my head unit, conscious that I need to keep something in reserve. A short section of woodland offers some respite from the warm sun, its rays breaking through the canopy and dappling the tarmac below. And then it hits.<\/p> The gradient suddenly ramps up and I\u2019m forced to quickly shift down the cassette to keep my legs spinning. Unzipping my jersey to welcome any air I can, I\u2019m soon forced out of the saddle, swinging the bike from side to side as I inch myself up.<\/p> Gulping for breath, I can feel my heart pulsing in the roof of my mouth, but as the summit looms into view, I remind myself that pain and discomfort are temporary.<\/p> Rolling over the top, my heart sinks. What I thought was the climb\u2019s conclusion was merely hiding its remainder and there\u2019s a still long, painful drag to go before reaching the cattle grid that marks its finish.<\/p> Crossing the staccato finish line at 15 minutes and 39 seconds, I might not have troubled the world\u2019s best, but I\u2019m pretty happy with my effort.<\/p><\/div><\/div> Flying down the switchbacks on the other side of the pass, I promise myself I\u2019ll definitely be returning to the Dales armed with a road bike. With climbing and descents this good, I can see why the locals are adamant that it\u2019s the best place for riding in the UK.<\/p> A mix of flat road and riverside paths ferries us quickly eastwards, back to the Swale Way. The rough, technical path that had stopped me in my tracks a few hours before is descended with ease and I only pause to forage some late-season wild garlic to take back home along with the memories.<\/p> Back at the Dales Bike Centre, it\u2019s smiles all round as we tuck into some hearty baps jam-packed with local produce. And after a day of sampling the Yorkshire borderland\u2019s best on and off-road offerings, it feels like a fitting way to end this truly multi-sensory experience.<\/p> Distance:<\/strong> 64.5km Getting there:<\/strong> The Yorkshire Dales are best accessed by car, but it is possible to reach the start point of this ride on public transport. Darlington train station is just 2.5 hours from London and is an hour and two buses away from the Dales Bike Centre<\/a>.<\/p> Where to stay:<\/strong> The Dales Bike Centre<\/a> has shared bunk rooms (from \u00a346 per night) and a four-person self-catered flat (from \u00a3160 per night) on site. The neighbouring Orchard Caravan and Camping park<\/a> has tent and campervan pitches (from \u00a321 per night).<\/p> Where to eat:<\/strong> The bike centre\u2019s cafe has a varied menu that goes big on local produce from 9am \u2013 5pm, Monday to Sunday. For an evening meal, the Black Bull<\/a> in Reeth serves pub grub every night of the week.<\/p> Tourist information:<\/strong> Struggle Borderlands takes place on 14 September, costing from \u00a359. Find out more and book a place at ridethestruggle.com.<\/p> Tourist information:<\/strong> Yorkshire Dales National Park<\/a><\/p>Savage start<\/h2>
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Welcome respite<\/h2>
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Hard pass<\/h2>
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First-class climbs<\/h2>
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Local knowledge<\/h4>