{"id":70159,"date":"2024-10-12T11:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-10-12T09:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/a0c74e93-c8d3-4f94-95fd-c55c18c0ed97"},"modified":"2024-10-12T12:25:33","modified_gmt":"2024-10-12T10:25:33","slug":"zero-midges-only-30-minutes-of-rain-and-incredible-island-roads-a-diary-of-a-perfect-two-week-scottish-cycle-tour","status":"publish","type":"rss_feed","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/cyclingplus\/rss_feed\/zero-midges-only-30-minutes-of-rain-and-incredible-island-roads-a-diary-of-a-perfect-two-week-scottish-cycle-tour\/","title":{"rendered":"Zero midges, only 30 minutes of rain and incredible island roads | A diary of a perfect two-week Scottish cycle tour"},"content":{"rendered":"

Gloomy winter weather looms on the horizon, so let’s look back at a sunny bikepacking adventure aboard Jack and Laura’s tandem <\/p>

By Jack Luke\n <\/p>

Published: Saturday, 12 October 2024 at 09:00 AM<\/p>

\n\n

Though I’m loathe to admit it, winter is just around the corner. With that, thoughts of holidaying aboard my beloved tandem with my partner, Laura, are truly in the rearview mirror. <\/p>

So, with gloomy skies closing in around BikeRadar’s home in Bristol, what better time to look back fondly on this spring’s tour \u2013 one of our finest to date. <\/p>

This year’s trip took us from Edinburgh to the west coast of Scotland, hopping to Islay and back before rumbling north to Oban and on to Mull. <\/p>

Besides finishing with an enforced ride from Birmingham to Bristol and bickering with train conductors, the tour was essentially unimprovable \u2013 no rain, mechanicals nor even midges marred our truly restful 800km trip. <\/p>

Read on and dream of adventure anew with us. I hope you enjoy it.<\/p>

Day 0 \u2013 Bristol to Edinburgh via London<\/h2>
A Berlingo is now on my shortlist of potential cars. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Good friend and devilish enabler, Tom Penslar, made our whole trip possible, graciously offering to ferry this pair of idiot non-drivers in his fabulously practical Citro\u00ebn Berlingo passion wagon from Bristol to London.\u00a0<\/p>
Why London? Only LNER and Avanti West Coast permit tandems onboard their trains<\/a>, demanding a trip to Birmingham or London if we want to head home to Scotland on a bike made for two.<\/p>
$\"\"$
Never again. Laura Dow \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
After a painless journey, we quickly reassembled the tandem in the basement of Hammersmith Tesco.<\/p>
Riding through central London onboard a fully loaded tandem is an experience I would rather not repeat \u2013 never have I felt like more of a vulnerable Highland teuchter than riding that bike by parliament.<\/p>
$\"Woman$
Why is it so hard? Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
We arrived a full two hours early for the train, but still had the usual argument about getting the tandem onboard with the conductor. What is it about wee men in high-vis jackets?<\/p>
However, my passively aggressively pre-printed copy of LNER\u2019s bike policy was just the ticket to continue northward.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Broken$
Words can’t express how relieved I was to have grabbed a spare hanger at the last minute. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Besides repairing a derailleur hanger snapped in the heat of bickering and shoving the bike into the cycle locker, our trundle to east Edinburgh and a warm bed was completed without incident.<\/p>
Day 1 \u2013 Edinburgh to Glasgow<\/h2>
$\"Musselburgh$
All good rides begin next to a giant shiny bivalve. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Our first proper day began with a dog-leg to the Honest Toun<\/em>, where born and bred honest lass Laura paid her respects to Musselburgh\u2019s namesake.\u00a0<\/p>
We lingered in civilisation a wee bit longer in Leith Links, enjoying a pastry and bumping into an old pal.\u00a0<\/p>
After a few more errands and a chance encounter with another pal (Edinburgh truly is a village), we eventually joined the Water of Leith bike path just after lunch.\u00a0<\/p>
We were horrified to discover this has been resurfaced in what feels like playground rubber \u2013 not the optimal surface for an exceptionally heavy idiot bus.\u00a0<\/p>
Our treacly pull up the path to Balerno was rewarded with a headwind and confusing new-build estates around East Calder.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"NCN$
I’ve ridden it dozens of times, but the bike path between Edinburgh and Glasgow is still a worthwhile day out. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
The NCN 75 west of Livingston delivers junk miles by the bucket load \u2013 even the most avid fly-tipping enthusiast will find intriguing delights here.\u00a0<\/p>
The path from Bathgate onward is \u2013 hand on heart \u2013 tremendously good. It\u2019s wide, pleasingly bleak in a post-industrial way and always empty. Only the enforced portage around glass-strewn gullies near Airdrie soured the experience.\u00a0<\/p>
We narrowly avoided accidentally joining the M8 at Drumpellier then took the rolling A8 into town. Despite Laura nearly bonking at Carntyne, our faces were aflush with a satisfied wind-whipped glow as we sat down for a bowl of daal in my brother\u2019s flat just before midnight.<\/p>
Day 2 \u2013 Glasgow to Arran<\/h2>
$\"Tandem$
ScotRail proves it’s possible to transport bikes without a train hurtling off a cliff. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Without wishing unkindness upon the good folk of Renfrewshire and Ayrshire, the prospect of a very early start to smash west to catch our rescheduled ferry to Arran from Troon did not appeal.\u00a0<\/p>
While I\u2019m sure fine roads can be found in those airts, the direct route from the Southside would likely skip all of them.\u00a0<\/p>
No matter as, after a leisurely breakfast, we took full advantage of ScotRail\u2019s enlightened bikes policy, which permits tandems (without pre-booking!) on many Central Belt routes. <\/p>
40 stress-free minutes later and we were in Troon. It baffles the mind why it is not this simple everywhere, but I digress.\u00a0<\/p>
The faff balance was restored when our ferry was delayed for 2.5 hours.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Jack$
I enjoyed my CalMac and Cheese very much\u2026 Laura Dow \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Unwilling to risk leaving the ferry terminal, we were sustained by only handfuls of dry granola until boarding.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Woman$
\u2026Laura enjoyed hers twice Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Once aboard, we relished our first CalMac and Cheese of the trip. Laura relished hers again as the choppy crossing took its toll on her delicate sea legs.\u00a0<\/p>
Upon landing on Arran, we sweated up the tough pull out of Brodick into Lamlash and replenished lost calories with muffins and custard \u2013 classic school-dinner inspired fare on our trips.<\/p>
Day 3 \u2013 Lamlash to Lochranza<\/h2>
$\"Woman$
The 20 minutes of rain at the start of our day on Arran was the only wet spell we endured on the whole trip. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
We left Lamlash under a heavy grey sky, convinced we\u2019d spend the day ensconced in a clammy waterproof embrace.\u00a0<\/p>
However, parting clouds and a hot climb approximately 30 seconds into our ride had us stripping breeks to let our perky peely-wally pins breathe once more.\u00a0<\/p>
After a cooling descent, we enjoyed keeking at the big houses in Whiting Bay and pondered how Arran can possibly have a better bus service than Bristol.\u00a0<\/p>
Twisty climbs around the southern tip of the island were rewarded with views of cute lambs, Aisla crag and, as we turned northward at Kilmory, an almighty taily \u2013 woof!\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Tandem$
Sat among bags of sheep feed, we enjoyed this escape from the warm but blustery southerly. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
We momentarily requisitioned a shelter by a farm track to guzzle a croissant and continued on to Blackwaterfoot.\u00a0<\/p>
Shunted along by the tremendous southerly, we enjoyed nosing left across the Kilbran Sound to Kintyre and right to the caves that line this beautiful road. Although I protested, I was forbidden from indulging in any unplanned subterranean jollies.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Woman$
The road hugging the west coast of Arran was a highlight of the trip. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
The wind blowing down Glen Catacol was whipping the water in the small bay at its foot into an impressive frenzy, but it calmed as we turned the corner into Lochranza.\u00a0<\/p>
Overlooked by the great big lump of Meall M\u00f2r, our excellent campsite was shared with only two quiet Dutch backpackers and a nosey lamb.\u00a0<\/p>
Day 4 \u2013 Lamlash to Islay<\/h2>
$\"Tandem$
The ferry to Islay passed without gastric incident. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
We awoke in Lamlash to calm dry weather and leisurely rolled the kilometre from our campsite to the harbour for the ferry to the Kintyre peninsula.<\/p>
Dolphins spotted en route to Claonaig smoothed out any remaining bumps on our brains.<\/p>
As we left the ferry, we crossed paths with the only other tandem team spotted on our trip They were going in the opposite direction and riding a green bike \u2013 Lack and Jaura?\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Tandem$
Islay delighted and surprised us. Laura Dow \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
The humid climb over the bealach to Kennacraig was rewarded with a drum-brake sizzling descent.\u00a0<\/p>
Distracted by the entertaining comings and goings of this busy harbour, the small delay to our ferry to Islay barely registered. A smooth crossing ensured our second CalMac and Cheese of the trip passed (or rather, didn\u2019t) without drama.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Tent$
We enjoyed our first calm night on Islay. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
For a west-coast island, the section out of Port Askaig to the head of Loch Indaal was unusually agrarian, afforested and rolling. <\/p>
Things opened out nicely into characteristic Hebridean machair and moor after collecting our messages in Bridgend. We scoffed excellent pasta for tea on a lovely pitch right by the water.\u00a0<\/p>
Day 5 \u2013 Nosing around Islay\u00a0<\/h2>
$\"Sound$
Unable to stay still, our rest day included 60km of riding. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
This was to be a rest day of sorts, taking a lap around the head of Loch Indaal to Bowmore \u2013 now forever known as \u2018Bow-wow\u2019 for the sole reason that it made us laugh \u2013 and over to the Strand.\u00a0<\/p>
Adding to the holiday vibes, the jetstream looked kindly on our weary heads, blowing warm winds (17\u00bac! On Islay! In May!) across the dun moorland around our campsite from dusk till dawn.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Jack$
Tropical shirts to match the climate. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
The blustery headwind tested our now weary legs, but vigour was restored with an excellent beige lunch in Bowmore \u2013 sorry, Bow-wow.\u00a0<\/p>
Dominated by the distillery, this funny wee toun is surprisingly stark. Not unpleasant by any means, just unusually industrial and suburban.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Clothes$
It was at this point we regretted not bringing pegs. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Arriving at the Strand, the increasingly wild easterly whipped up the dunes into an exfoliating storm and coated our apples in a crunchy layer of sand. Said easterly had us ripping along at 40km\/h while soft-pedalling on the return leg to the campsite. Reeking bib shorts cleaned, we slept like logs.<\/p>
Day 6 \u2013 Islay to Knapdale<\/h2>
$\"Woman$
Never pass up the chance to look inside a roadside hut offering home-baked goods. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Paying homage to the popular Scottish Islay-based cycling blog, The Washing Machine Post<\/a>, we started our day scoffing a flat white and a breakfast roll at Debbie\u2019s in Bruichladdich.\u00a0<\/p>
Gentle climes and climbs over the High Road into Port Ellen ferry port passed quickly.<\/p>
The crossing back to the mainland was gentle \u2013 the stressful stretch up the A83 to Tarbert was not. A roadside hut just off the main road packed full of amazing homebaked snacks lightened our spirits though.<\/p>
$\"Paps$
Our campsite at Knapdale had the finest views of the trip. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
The lumpy road down West Loch Tarbert had a couple of tough pitches but was pretty damn great, with tremendous views over to the Paps of Jura. <\/p>
The campsite was packed with fun Glasgow toonies, the highlight being the young lads who\u2019d brought a tripod-mounted dartboard to play on the beach. What a vibe.\u00a0<\/p>
Day 7 \u2013 Knapdale to Loch Awe<\/h2>
$\"Cyclist$
This wee lochan sits at the top of the pass over to Lochgilphead. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Jura was happed in mist as we started our day trundling along the road by Loch Caolisport.\u00a0<\/p>
A trio of banana\u2019d seals wished us well at the foot of the pass to Lochgilphead. We chanced the A83 over the windy bike path and saw but one car.\u00a0<\/p>
The Argyll Cafe comes highly recommended for hungry cyclists \u2013 the warm atmosphere and giant portion of macaroni cheese (the third of the trip for those counting) made me feel almost emotional.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Portaging$
I’ve made a bad habit of planning routes that require us to lift this stupid bike over things. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Full to the brim, we rejoined the Crinan Canal and rode as far as Bellanoch, where we crossed M\u00f2ine Mh\u00f2r. This expansive bog is packed with cool ancient monuments and long roads to neb at.\u00a0<\/p>
We briefly considered chipping up the main road to Oban, but decided to go along Loch Awe as planned.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Tandem$
Sheltered by a giant birch, we escaped overnight showers. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
A landslide at Kilmaha, which had half-buried a cottage by the shore, forced some brief portage, but we found a great wild camp spot under a mighty birch canopy a wee bit further along. <\/p>
I made brisk ablutions in the nud in the Loch\u2019s waters and we slept the sleep of the damned.<\/p>
Day 8 \u2013 Loch Awe to Mull<\/h2>
$\"Loch$
Loch Awe is beautiful. The horrible windy climbs on the shore road less so. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
We left our birch cocoon to find the weather fair murky as we grunted up the steep climbs along the Loch Awe shore road. The few twisty descents weren\u2019t just rewards for our aching bums either.\u00a0<\/p>
Kilchrenan Inn didn\u2019t open until 1pm so, sadly without macaroni cheese, we ate humous in a huff.<\/p>
Waterproofs then went on and off in the space of a short climb before we blasted down Glen Nant to Taynuilt.\u00a0<\/p>
We didn\u2019t realise it at the time, but this atmospheric old-growth woodland is part of the Caledonian Forest Reserve \u2013 a very cool spot indeed.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Jack$
I’ll never flip a pancake without thinking of the shopkeeper in Taynuilt. Laura Dow \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
Pancakes procured at a funny wee shop in Taynuilt (\u201cbig enough to get stuck on the ceiling\u201d, so said the shopkeeper), we turned westward to take Glen Lonan through to Oban.\u00a0<\/p>
The Highland coos lining this road were as unaware of our presence as we were the advancing hour \u2013 the greatest haste of our trip came in Oban Lidl, where I did a mad supermarket sweep, just catching the ferry after getting lost in town. Idiots.\u00a0<\/p>
Famed for its wildlife, upon landing in Mull, Laura immediately began her role as chief sea otter spotter, though day one on this beautiful island didn\u2019t deliver the goods.<\/p>
Day 9 \u2013 Nosing around Mull\u00a0<\/h2>
$\"Jack$
Mull is host to some of the finest roads I’ve ridden in Scotland. Laura Dow \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
After a well-earned fester in our tent, we rode the fairly busy main drag to Tobermory, albeit on a lightly laden bike.\u00a0<\/p>
A generous lunch was taken between looking around shops. I resisted buying a handsome penknife I didn\u2019t need in the tackle shop and we said hello to a nice ginger cat of some repute<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>
We were lashing with sweat as we ground up the steep braes out of the harbour and onto the windy road to Dervaig. <\/p>
The drop to the marshy head of Loch a’ Chumhainn was fantastic with wide open corners and excellent visibility. We couldn\u2019t face the extended lap up to Calgary, so cut straight across to Torloisk.\u00a0<\/p>
The fierce switchback climb heading south was seriously tough on the tandem but \u2013 good grief \u2013 that descent! <\/p>
$\"Laura$
If you fancy a flat-ish ride, an out-and-back along the north shore of Loch na Keal comes highly recommended. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
This was incredible, with wide views down Loch Tuath to Lunga and an amazing dwarf oak forest at the bottom \u2013 a real all-timer.\u00a0<\/p>
The nice rolling road heading back east didn\u2019t deliver otters, but a favourable wind helped soften the blow to morale.\u00a0<\/p>
Day 10 \u2013 south Mull<\/h2>
$\"Cyclist$
The towering crags above force the road right to the water’s edge. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
What a ride.\u00a0<\/p>
We left the campsite and quickly joined the road along the south shore of Loch na Keal. Passing beneath towering crags, this road is simply astonishing. I dreamed of climbing the chossy gullies above us as hovering crows dreamed of stealing the doughnuts we were eating.\u00a0<\/p>
The gentle climb over the pass to Loch Scridain wasn\u2019t terribly taxing, but I still enjoyed a wee snooze in the sun by the shore. A fleeting glimpse of a sea otter rounded out our wildlife spotting for the trip.\u00a0<\/p>
$\"Selfie$
Every road on Mull blew our tiny minds. Jack Luke \/ Our Media<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>
A self-imposed time trial to catch an earlier ferry after the incredible pass through Glen More, where my red kip sizzled, was successful.\u00a0<\/p>
My dad collected us back in Oban and ferried us home to Crieff, where we rested weary butts before the journey to Birmingham and on to Bristol.<\/p>