Want a lawn, but don’t want the effort of maintaining it? Garden designer Jack Wallington shows how you can have the best of both worlds.

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Published: Wednesday, 14 August 2024 at 09:16 AM


Lawns are the most sustainable usable surface we can make, absorbing carbon, retaining water and sustaining wildlife that thrives in low grassland habitat. And yet, in winter they can become muddy, and, in spring and autumn, soggy. During hot summers they can turn hard and brown. They can be more demanding of time than most garden elements, driving some to plastic grass.

People often ask what they can grow as an alternative to lawn that won’t turn into mud from children’s play or sustain burn patches from dog wee. But the reality is that few plants can resist being walked on as heavily as the grass family.

Allowing some areas of lawn to grow long while mowing others cuts down on labour, looks good and is great for wildlife. Here at Mothecombe House in Devon the long grass shelters daffodils and other bulbs whose foliage needs to be left to die back
to give a good show next spring. © Jason Ingram – © Jason Ingram

Grasses evolved on plains with herds of animals trampling and chomping them, with replacement blades then firing up from the base. Billions of years of evolution led to the lawn.

Reducing the area of unused lawn will minimise maintenance. Options include turning it into a sort of long-grass meadow area, or just adding more planting. But many of us still want usable lawn areas on which to walk or picnic, as a play area for young children, or simply for the look. So what can we do to make our turf easier to tend, while helping biodiversity, and enabling our children to experience a real lawn with daisies to pick?

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How to enjoy a low maintenance lawn

Allow the lawn to establish

New lawns are particularly vulnerable to becoming damaged, whereas mature lawns repair more easily. Established plants are stronger and able to rejuvenate faster, and many lawn grasses will spread via rhizomes. Mature lawns, unlike new ones, will also have a seedbank in the soil. The older the lawn, the better it is at self-repair, because it has a greater seedbank, and creeping species are more likely to spread into worn gaps and bare patches. Lawns from laid turf are more resilient from year two on, and lawns from seed from year three.

Optimise your lawn mix

Every single plant in a garden lives by the rule ‘right plant, right place’, including lawn grasses. Different mixes exist for various positions and use: sun, shade, ornamental and hard-wearing. If your lawn receives lots of use, opt for heavy-duty grass intended for sports pitches. Real grass can tolerate wear from rugby teams scrapping it out, so it can also withstand energetic toddlers. Urban lawns can be fairly shaded by surrounding fences or buildings, so they will benefit from a shade mix. There are also specialist grass seed companies online that can tailor a seed mix to your garden, and most offer turf for different conditions.

Encourage wildflower ‘thugs’

The lawn at Sticky Wicket
The central meadow at Sticky Wicket, speckled with Trifolium repens (White Clover), Banks full of Lotus corniculatus (Bird’s Foot Trefoil), Rhinanthus minor (Yellow Rattle) and Surrounding is Valeriana officinalis (Valarium) and crosses of different coloured Geranium pratense (meadow cranesbill) © Jason Ingram

Many of the plants we are told are ‘bad’ for lawns are actually among the best for toughening them up. Dandelions, achillea, self-heal, plantain, buttercup and daisies are all able to withstand being trodden on and their roots help bind the soil. They are all more drought resistant than lawn grass, too, remaining green in dry weather when grass may temporarily die back. Moss in shady lawns is also a good thing, making an area green in spots where grass can’t grow.

Let an area grow long

Lawn at Mothecombe House
Allowing some areas of lawn to grow long while mowing others cuts down on labour, looks good and is great for wildlife. Here at Mothecombe House in Devon the long grass shelters daffodils and other bulbs whose foliage needs to be left to die back
to give a good show next spring. © Jason Ingram – © Jason Ingram

If you take part in No Mow May and then cut your grass back to lawn, be aware that it will look awful for a month or so, and could lead to dead patches that need repairing as the clump-forming grasses shade others out. If you’d like a meadow area, the best solution is to choose a permanent spot for longer grass and then stick with it, maintaining it for just that purpose. For instance, one half of the area could remain a lawn, while the other half becomes permanent meadow.

Avoid walking on it – or add a path or stepping stones

Garden designed by Angus Thompson
© Rachel Warne – © Rachel Warne

You can minimise the damage from footfall by replacing a section of lawn with a path or inserting a more contemporary version of stepping stones in the most used areas. Lawns are at their most vulnerable when waterlogged, as that is when soggy soil under the grass can squash or slip, tearing up the roots. If you can avoid using the lawn during the wettest weeks, it will ensure the grass is strong for the rest of the year. The muddiest patches are often caused by repeated use, such as walking to and from a shed or garage. Create a simple path and people are likely to use it in the wetter months, protecting the lawn. If you want an immaculate rectangle of green for a lawn, the reality is that you won’t be able to use it. Better to accept that a lawn full of use and happy memories is going to have some bare patches, and hopefully plenty of wildflowers.