No space for a tree in your garden? Think again. We asked experts to recommend the best trees to grow in containers. Words: Chris Young, Photos: Jason Ingram & Eleanor Walpole
No space for a tree in your garden? Think again – with these 13 expert picks for trees in pots
There’s little doubt that, in the past few years, the appreciation of trees has increased. Not only has their beauty and diversity grown in the public’s awareness, but so too have their ecological and environmental credentials, from attracting wildlife, providing flowers and fruit, to adding seasonal colour and even
helping cool buildings and pavements in summer.
Jump to:
- How to care for trees in pots
- Which pots are best to grow trees in
- How to feed trees in pots
- How to water trees in pots
- Best compost for trees in pots
- Problems with trees in pots
- The best trees in pots
- Where to buy trees in pots
Growing them in containers is certainly one way of bringing a tree closer to your everyday world. Whether you have a small outdoor space or you can’t grow plants in the ground – or you’re renting and want to take a tree with you – it’s worth working out how and what to grow in a pot.
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The first thing to consider is what the pot is doing and how it is to be used. “A pot elevates the canopy of a small tree up to your eyeline,” explains Bunny Guinness, landscape architect and podcaster. “This is really useful when you are trying to mask a building or introduce some co-ordination in an ill-matched group of buildings.” A suite of co-ordinated or matching pots – or tying their colour in with window or
door paint – can help simplify an area. “Using a repeated type of tree in similar pots allows you to define and create spaces around buildings,” she adds.
But how do you start selecting which trees to grow? “When I’m thinking about trees to grow in pots,” says designer Andy Sturgeon, “I look at a more Mediterranean palette – such as olives, figs, Arbutus x andrachnoides or Lagerstroemia indica – as they tend to be adapted to the poor soil and lack of nutrients and water that occurs in containers. This approach also makes sure you are choosing trees that are more resilient to the increased temperatures associated with climate change.”
Selecting trees with smaller leaves is another useful tip. Nick Dunn, woody plant expert and a director at tree nursery Frank P Matthews, says that trees with smaller leaves, such as Japanese maples or silver birches, can do well in pots – smaller leaves means there is less transpiration. He recommends some of the winter-flowering cherries (Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’), as well as more ornamental species such as Persian silk tree Albizia julibrissin and Chinese redbud Cercis canadensis.
Best trees to grow in pots for fruit
But what about trees for fruit? Garden designer Pollyanna Wilkinson loves to grow crab apples in pots. “They bring such brilliant seasonal interest to a garden,” she says. “Malus ‘Evereste’ is covered in clusters of fragrant, white and pink flowers; they provide a brilliant early nectar source to pollinators and then come summer, orangey/red crab apples develop that hang on until autumn.”
Historically, many fruit trees have been grown in pots – think rows of summer– loving citrus trees in terracotta pots outside an old orangery – but so too have more traditional crops. Nick Dunn says that apples and pears can be very happy in pots. “But don’t assume you need a dwarfing rootstock, as the pot is doing the dwarfing by stressing the roots – so it’s fine to choose a normal fruit tree,” he says. Self-fertile apples such as Malus domestica ‘Red Windsor’ or the pear Pyrus communis ‘Beth’ (on a Quince C or A rootstock) are good selections.
How to feed trees in pots
Bunny Guinness is known for her ‘baseless’ pots. “I have over 80 pots in my garden and the vast majority are baseless,” she says. By taking the bottom out of pots, Bunny encourages the roots to find their way down to the soil to access moisture and nutrients. “I find that any plant in a pot with a base needs constant potting on, feeding and watering – and even then, the plants don’t realise their potential.”
How to water trees in pots
Dealing with the climate, and how the plant grows, is possibly the biggest challenge of container growing trees. Pots can dry out quickly; their size can limit root growth; water availability may be poor; and for larger specimens, pots may not give structural rigidity. So selecting tougher trees that can deal with wind, drought, waterlogging and reduced nutrients is all part of the challenge.
As a result, Nick Dunn recommends being strict with your feeding and watering regime, plus root pruning in winter every two to three years is advisable. “Ideally, you want the plant to be potted up into the next size container every few years, to allow the roots to grow, but if you can’t do that, then cutting a couple of inches off the rootball and then adding in fresh compost is a great way of ensuring the trees stay healthy.”
Andy Sturgeon suggests planting a tree into an Air-Pot and then placing it into a larger ornamental pot to help it live longer – the only downside being the tree needs more water more frequently as the roots are partially exposed to air.
We all know that the planet needs more trees. Government targets of tree planting, and international understanding of the value of trees, means we are more aware of their benefits than ever before. Nurturing them in pots is something most of us can do, and with a bit of thought to species selection and care, we could be enjoying the benefits of our arboreal friends for many years to come.
Using a repeated type of tree in similar pots allows you to define and create spaces around buildings.
How to grow trees in pots
There are always risks of pests and diseases for different species, but any ill health or stress will make the plant more susceptible to them. Good hygiene, regular watering and feeding will help to give a container-planted tree the best chance of defence.
Buy the best quality pot you can afford. There is a huge variety of pot shapes and styles. Consider the proportion of the pot in relation to the height of the tree. If the container is going on a balcony or roof terrace, find a lightweight container that won’t increase the overall weight.
Don’t assume you need a dwarfing rootstock. The pot is doing the dwarfing by stressing the root
Which pots are best to grow trees in
Lighter coloured pots (ideally terracotta) are preferable – dark pots retain heat, drying out the growing medium. Terracotta is still the best, as it is porous and doesn’t get too hot.
Don’t grow trees in a pot that is too big – either pot them on regularly or root- prune them every few years. This involves getting an old kitchen bread knife or hori hori to cut a couple of inches of the rootball away. Then replanting in the container with fresh compost. Wide pots are better than tall, thin ones, as roots like to spread outwards.
If you can’t root prune your trees (maybe the tree is just too big or lifting it is impractical), consider removing the top few centimetres of growing medium. Scrape away to expose some roots and replace with fresh soil or compost. This can make a real difference to the health and strength of the plant; add in a balanced fertiliser (such as Growmore).
How to feed trees in pots
Feeding is vital, as container-grown plants often stay in their compost for many years. Use a feed with more nitrogen and phosphorus than potassium. Whether that’s a granular, slow-release feed you dig into the soil, or a regular liquid feed that is mixed with water, ensure you give them feed regularly through the growing season.
Even tough species need watering, especially in drought. Don’t rely on rain. Containers near a house often remain dry as rainwater gets deflected by the building.
Best compost for trees in pots
Use a loam-based, peat-free compost. Go for the best quality you can afford, as the tree will be growing in it for many years. Do your research. Peat-free growing media are structurally different than peat- based formulations, especially in the way they retain moisture and unlock nutrients.
Problems with trees in pots
Wind rock can be a downside of trees in containers, so maintain pruning, not only to keep the tree’s shape for the pot, but also to ensure it doesn’t get too leggy. Wind also dries out the rootball and leaves, especially in summer, so continue to water in times of strong winds.
There are always risks of pests and diseases for different species, but any ill health or stress will make the plant more susceptible to them. Good hygiene, regular watering and feeding will help to give a container-planted tree the best chance of defence.
The best trees in pots
Betula utilis subsp. jacquemontii
For the large copper pots in this small garden, Butter Wakefield chose this deciduous tree with bark that turns brilliant white as it matures and ovate leaves that turn yellow in autumn. Yellow-brown male catkins appear in early spring. Eventual height and spread (after ten to 12 years): 12m x 8m. RHS H7, USDA 5a-6b†.
Albizia julibrissin
With mimosa-like leaves, this medium-sized deciduous tree is hardier than people think, but does enjoy a lot of sun; fluffy, pink-white flowers appear in summer. 8m x 4m. RHS H4, USDA 6a-9b.
Koelreuteria paniculata
This tree originates from the dry valleys of China. It prefers a hot, sunny position where its large panicles of yellow flowers, which turn to bronze, lantern-like fruits, can be shown off. 12m x 8m. RHS H5, USDA 5a-9b.
Pinus sylvestris ‘Watereri’
A slow-growing cultivar of the Scots pine, which has attractive orange-brown bark. The blue-green needles are slightly twisted and they cradle candle-like cones. 4mx6m.RHSH7,
USDA 3a-7b.
Cercis chinensis ‘Avondale’
Pea-like magenta flowers form on the tree’s wood in spring. Heart-shaped, glossy-green leaves follow, turning butter yellow in autumn. 3m x 2.5m. AGM*. RHS H5, USDA 6a-9b.
Lagerstroemia indica
A great tree for its mottled, peeling bark and plentiful panicles of crinkled flowers; multi-stems can look especially good. Not fully hardy, so grow in a sheltered area and protect from frost. 8m x 8m. RHS H3, USDA 6a-9b.
Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’
A choice winter-flowering cherry, with semi-double white flowers from November to March.
Also provides good autumn yellow-orange foliage. 4m x 3m. RHS H6, USDA 4a-8b.
Arbutus unedo
A shrubby evergreen Mediterranean tree, known as the strawberry tree, this has shredding red-brown bark and leathery small leaves. White flowers and red fruits appear in autumn.8mx8m.
RHS H5, USDA 7a-10b.
Hippophae rhamnoides
A deciduous small tree, sea buckthorn is a tough plant that tolerates the vagaries of pot life well. Has thin silvery leaves, yellow flowers then bright-orange small berries in autumn. 6m x 6m. RHS H7,
USDA 3a-8b.
Prunus persica ‘Bonanza’
With a naturally compact habit, this is a great peach tree for container growing. Pretty pink flowers in spring lead to juicy fruit in late summer. Overwinter in a greenhouse and protect fromfrost.1.8mx 1.5m. RHS H4, USDA 6a-9b.
Ficus carica
Figs enjoy having their roots contained so will grow well in a pot. Good cultivars include popular ‘Brown Turkey’, and ‘Ice Crystal’ with its deeply divided and dramatic foliage. 4m x 4m.
RHS H4, USDA 6a-10b.
‘Prunifolia’
‘Prunifolia’ © Jason Ingram
A lovely ornamental hawthorn with dense, dark-green foliage that turns orange- yellow-red in autumn. Bright-red fruits that stay on until winter are a real bonus. 5m x 4m. AGM. RHS H7.
Malus ‘Evereste’
A medium-sized crab apple that works well as a multi-stem tree and offers interesting fruit, leaf colour and flower colour – there’s something for each season. Good for pollinators too. 6m x 6m. RHS H6, USDA 4a-8b.
Here’s our guide to growing crab apples
Where to buy trees in pots
- Barcham Trees Eye Hill Drove, Soham, Ely, Cambridgeshire CB7 5XF. Tel 01353 720950, barcham.co.uk
- Frank P Matthews Berrington Court, Tenbury Wells, Worcestershire WR15 8TH. Tel 01584 812800, frankpmatthews.com
- Majestic Trees Chequers Meadow, Chequers Hill, Flamstead, nr St Albans,HertfordshireAL38ET. Tel01582843881, majestictrees.co.uk
Chris Young is a landscape designer and garden consultant.