Most arums come into bloom in spring, producing a distinctive flower head made up of a hood, or spathe. This surrounds a spadix on a fleshy stem, at the base of which is a cluster of small flowers. When the leaves die back later in the season, this is left behind as a berry-encrusted spire, which adds interest to the August garden. <\/p>
Jump to <\/strong><\/p> The appearance of the flower spike has given rise to a plethora of common names, including lords-and-ladies, friar\u2019s cowl, cuckoo-pint \u2013 and many more besides. <\/p> Arums are sometimes referred to as arum lilies, but this term is also used for Zantedeschia<\/em>, and the two should not be confused.<\/p> Are arums poisinous?<\/strong><\/p> Yes, all parts of the plant are poisonous, and arums also contain irritant spicules, although the tuber was once used as a source of laundry starch. Birds and other wildlife love the berries of arums and having them in your garden can help boost biodiversity. <\/p> Native to much of Europe, including the UK, Arum<\/em> is a moderate-sized genus of around 28 recognised species of tuberous herbaceous perennials, the most widespread of which is Arum italicum<\/em> (Italian arum). This is found not just in Italy, but across France and Spain as well is in the Balkans and parts of North Africa. <\/p> In the UK, the most widespread native species is Arum maculatum<\/em>, which means \u2018spotted\u2019, and occurs in two types: Arum maculatum<\/em> f. maculatum<\/em>, with spotted leaves; and Arum maculatum<\/em> f. immaculatum<\/em>, which has plain, green foliage. There is also a small relict population of Arum italicum<\/em>, found only in Hampshire and Dorset<\/a>. <\/p> Arums have a reputation for spreading, but although cultivars of Arum italicum<\/em> can creep, Arum maculatum<\/em> has a more restrained, clumping habit. As the plant gets bigger, the oldest section eventually rots away, leaving small tubers that grow on. These may not necessarily be invasive but they can be hard to get rid of, so ensure you site the plant where you want it. <\/p> If you’re keen to stem the spread of them, then deadheading, or digging out some plants will help, as will the early removal of seedlings. <\/p> Arums tend to be hardy, and the species are fairly adaptable to a wide range of situations. Once established, plants will tolerate considerable summer drought<\/a>, making them a good choice for inhospitable places, such as against walls and under large trees. <\/p> Arums generally prefer a cool, shady position, ideally beneath deciduous trees or next to a hedge<\/a>. There they can take advantage of good light in early spring, when they\u2019re in full growth, and will be protected from summer heat once the canopy closes. <\/p> Arums prefer good, humus-rich soil, so enrich with compost<\/a> or leaf mould before planting, and mulch<\/a> well. <\/p> Planting depth is unimportant, as arums can adjust their position in the soil so that they are growing at the optimum level in any given location. New acquisitions should be planted out promptly, however, as container growing risks the pot freezing through in winter, damaging the roots and killing the plant. <\/p> The spike of berries looks beautiful in late summer, but remove it as it starts to disintegrate to discourage self-seeding. There is no need to feed arums.<\/p> Arums are long lived and form good-sized clumps over time. To spread a named cultivar around the garden, it\u2019s best to dig up the plant and propagate by division in autumn or spring. Take care when moving or dividing growing plants, as sappy young shoots can be brittle and easily break off. Smaller plants can be grown in pots in a protected area until they are large and resilient enough to go outside. <\/p> Arum problems<\/strong><\/p> Few pests and diseases attack arums, but in wet years, leaves can develop black spots thanks to the bacterial infection Pectobacterium carotovorum<\/em>. Damage is usually fairly minimal, although rather worse in pots, and should be tolerated. <\/p> Pheasants love the berries and the spadix, and have even been known to pull tubers out of the ground.<\/p> Arums combine well with plants such as ferns<\/a>, hellebores<\/a> and evergreen ornamental grasses<\/a>, and adding texture to swathes of snowdrops<\/a>. <\/p> Emerging in autumn, larger hybrids such as Arum <\/em>\u2018Chameleon\u2019 and Arum<\/em> \u2018Streaked Spectre\u2019 make impactful foliage plants, while smaller cultivars can be grown as a carpet of green and white to set off the colourful winter stems<\/a> of Cornus alba<\/em> \u2018Sibirica\u2019 or Cornus sanguinea<\/em> \u2018Anny\u2019s Winter Orange\u2019. Trees<\/a> are a natural companion and arums are attractive planted under acers, and ideal as an addition to an ornamental woodland. <\/p> Robust Arum italicum<\/em> can be large and, while it may spread, its cultivars are worth considering for the back of a woodland border, or in very dry shade where less vigorous plants might struggle. <\/p> Cultivars of Arum maculatum<\/em>, such as \u2018Lady of Devon\u2019 and \u2018Fletcher\u2019, are well-behaved, forming neat clumps of fresh foliage.<\/p> Chris Cotterell <\/strong>3 Park View, Whitchurch, Hampshire RG28 7FE. National Plant Collection holder who opens his garden by appointment. plantheritage.org.uk<\/a> \u00a0<\/p> Edulis Nursery<\/strong> The Walled Garden, Tidmarsh Lane, Pangbourne, Berkshire RG8 8HT. Tel 01635 578113, edulis.co.uk<\/a> \u00a0<\/p> Kevock Garden Plants<\/strong> Kevock Road, Lasswade, Midlothian EH18 1HX. Tel 0131 454 0660, kevockgarden.co.uk<\/a> \u00a0<\/p>How to stop arums, or lords-and-ladies, spreading<\/h3>
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